My week old H2c has been amazing except for one HMS Code. It has happened twice on two different days.
The first time it happened, I looked up the error message on the wiki and it wanted me to disassemble the toolhead. I wasn’t really wanting to do that on a brand new machine so I powered off the machine and tried it a few more times. Nothing worked until I tried to print the same part with a different size nozzle. That worked so I thought maybe there was something wrong with my nozzle or the rack position of the nozzle. I switched the same nozzle to a different place on the rack and tried to run the print again and this time it worked. There printer worked good for a few days until this morning.
Today it happened a second time. I power cycled the machine, ran a “read nozzle”, rehomed stuff, ect and then ran the print a second time and everything worked.
Both times this has happened it was with my .6 nozzle in rack position #5. I’ve ran 20 other prints with no problem. I really don’t want to be without a printer for a month nor do I want to tear toolhead apart. Should I submit a ticket, or is this just a fluck? I’m also kind of thinking maybe just a software / firmware thing that will get better as updates come out.
Has anyone else seen this or similar? what do you guys recommend I do?
Getting the same error, support wanted me to take the tool head apart.
Could you kindly refer to the link below and try reconnecting the Right Eddy Current Coil connector to see if this resolves the issue?
I just like you didnt want to take the thing apart. I got it last week. But I did it, and it did not help. So I responded back, hopefully they send a part or can give me a fix.
I don’t own a H2C but an H2D, and I’ve dismantled my printer more times than I care to remember. Just be aware that there are sensitive contacts inside, so handle them with care.
The first time will take some time since you’ll probably need to consult the manual between steps. Once you’ve done this a few times, it becomes remarkably straightforward. But as I mentioned, those contacts are delicate—so take it slow if you’re uncertain about what to do. Pause and review the manual to avoid any unnecessary “learning experiences.”
I’ve replaced most components in my tool head so far, and my H2D is barely six months old.
It took about 30 minutes. I removed and reonnected the terminal and still had the problem. After going back and forth with support they are sending me a new device, and I am shipping this one back to them.
I did not get the part, I decided to get a replacement device instead of taking it apart again. I am shipping the whole thing back to them. I only got about 32 hours till i problems arrupted, and currently i cant get it to print becuase of this error.
Hello everyone, I’m new here. So new that I just received the printer today. And I’m already running into problems. And as you can imagine, YES, I have the same error. But the funny thing is that this error shows up during the printer’s first calibration. Let me share my experience.
I performed the first calibration. And when it was roughly at 72% of the calibration, I got an error. I couldn’t see what it was because only the QR appeared since I hadn’t linked my account with Bambulab yet. I redid the calibration and had the same problem.
On the third try, I selected the option to skip the calibration. I linked my account to see the error codes. Right after, I performed the calibration from the main menu. It started the calibrations. At that moment, the error that appeared was 0300-4010 063720 (the nozzle compensation calibration failed).The same one you’re getting.
The error I mentioned (0300-4010 063720) didn’t reappear after I recalibrated from the main menu. The error that keeps appearing is 0300-2500-0001-000C.
I’ve opened a ticket with Bambula. Let’s see what they say. But in my case, not a single drop of filament has come out yet. Because the printer is malfunctioning.
What advice can you give me? Because, as I said, I’m completely new to Bambulab and this printer. And although I’m learning at breakneck speed, it’s not the kind of learning I’d like, to be honest. I’ve read that changing the nozzle might work. I really don’t know what to do. And to make matters worse, it’s the Chinese New Year. By the way, congratulations to everyone in China. And they’ve already announced that the response time these days won’t be as fast as usual. Anyway, this is my first experience with Bambulab, my first post on the forum, and unfortunately, it hasn’t been good at all. I hope the stars align and I don’t have to take apart parts of the printer. It doesn’t even have a second of printing time. Greetings to all.
Hello everyone. The situation has worsened. It turns out that today I turned the printer back on. And in the start menu, I launched a calibration again. And the first and only step was (print calibration).
Well, everything was fine until I saw that during that process,
the nozzle damaged the print bed, and it was a deep damage.
As far as I know, only the print bed is affected.
Because after seeing the crack the nozzle left on the print bed,
who knows if it hasn’t also damaged the nozzle or some other component of the printer.
And I say who knows, because after this problem, I decided to cancel everything,
reset the printer to factory settings,
turn it off, and wait for Bambulab to advise me.
Because I’m not touching anything anymore.
Given what has happened, you can’t even trust the printer itself. So, that’s the situation.
Best regards and have a good day.
I appreciate your help.
I've read the steps to follow, and it makes sense to do that test.
But, I repeat, after what happened, I'm going to wait for technical support to tell me what steps I should take.
I don't want to do any more tests.
It's a printer that cost over €2000, and as a Spanish saying goes, "Don't experiment with soda."
Especially seeing that by following the steps one by one, following a logical approach, and with a new printer—so new I haven't even printed anything yet—and after doing a calibration, this happens.
Well, all the better.
I hope they're the ones who give me a solution to the problem.
And of course, that solution doesn't involve changing components I've never handled and that, for fear of something going wrong, I'll lose the warranty, the right to a refund, etc.
But even so, it makes sense to do that test, and I don't see it as complicated to do. But, I'll be patient and wait for bambulab to respond.
And lastly, based on your experience,
Do you think the nozzle could have been damaged as well? I haven't seen any visible damage. But from the way the nozzle rubbed against the print bed, could the nozzle tip be damaged? Or perhaps some other component?
Thanks for your help
Some (more) years ago, it was normal to do exactly this before every print.
On most Bambu machines you do not need to do it or many people will not notice a small uneven bed. However if you like to have accurate parts printed, I think it does make sense to check it and even it out as good as possible.
Note: Could you please type your text in a normal way, as you have done in your first post in this thread? With that text box format it is really bad to read your posts on a smartphone. Since there are no automatic line breaks and you need to scroll left-right for each line.
You’re right, I don’t know why the messages are now showing up in that text format. But I’m not using the phone; I’m doing it from the PC. I will wait to see what Bambulab says. And, after what has happened, I hope everything stays in a damaged print board and that the rest of the components are in perfect condition. I just hope that the solution doesn’t involve having to replace anything or manipulate sensitive components. And at most, I hope it’s just tightening a screw that isn’t properly fastened, as seen in the video from the link. But, for now, the printer will remain turned off and with the factory settings. However, I will keep your link in my favorites.
I ended up tearing the whole tool head apart and replaced the right eddy sensor. 3 hours to be honest. I did take my time to make sure it all went back together right. It ended up not being the fix. I ended up returning it and getting a replacement. It took two weeks to get, but has been perfect. I’m very happy I just replaced it instead of continuing to try and fix it. Support was good if you don’t mind 24 hours between replies.
Thank you for your advice. Bambulab has responded to me and sent me this link to follow the steps: H2C First Layer Print Quality Improvement Guide | Bambu Lab Wiki . But it turns out that I already know why the nozzle may have scraped the print bed. I noticed that the threaded rod on the left moved more than the rod on the right. And now, looking back over everything that happened, when I received the printer and did the initial calibration of everything, the error occurred shortly after performing the step where the entire printer vibrates. And of course, the next day, when I did another calibration, having that rod moving could have caused the nozzle to scrape the bed. Today, I tightened the screws on the plastic piece properly, and now nothing moves. Now I have a question. The printer is reset to factory settings. Bambulab tells me to perform an automatic calibration.about the print bed. Well, my doubt and fear is that, after I tighten the screws, that variation in leveling or wherever. Does the printer, when turned on, know that this variation has occurred? Because the printer is reset to factory values. And they tell me to follow those steps. And of course, hoping that my problem initially was the same problem as yours. And now I have that problem and the calibration issue after properly adjusting the screws. I really don’t know what to do. Whether to directly follow the steps they indicate or tell Bambulab that I have detected the possible problem precisely with the print bed. And whether adjusting the screws could solve the problem, or if tightening the screws more or less… Well, it’s an ocean of doubts. For someone new to Bambulab, and after paying over €2000, to have the bottom hole closed. So, fear of the unknown. Greetings.
I know it’s an older thread, but I’m running into the same eddy sensor issue on my new H2C. I disassembled up to the TH board, but the limited space and visibility working on the hot end from behind and above has me paranoid about breaking something. I honestly wonder if it would be easier to just remove the entire tool head and then you can work on the sensor and the hot end on a work bench with good lighting and easy access.
Honestly, if it wasn’t for the fact that the printer weights 70lbs and it’s a major PITA for me to move up and down the basement stairs, past the furnace, etc. I would just return it and exchange it for a new one. Luckily, I purchased from Best Buy under my Best Buy Total membership which gives me a 90 day return window.
This sounds like it would be a lot easier, but I would think Bambu would put in in there WIKI instructions if it actually was. With tired eyes better lighting would make a big difference. Even if it took a little longer it would be a lot less stressful.
I would think a lot of people purchased locally for the ease of exchange if needed. I would think you wouldn’t even need to box it back up. I would, and did in fact, return mine just because i didn’t want problems after my exchange time was expired. I did and didn’t mind giving it a shot by replacing a few parts, but after say the 3rd time, I was done. bambu only gave 14 days and I don’t run mine ever day, so..
