Hole with triagular structure inside - dental model printing with p2s

[user_4222293372]

Hi all,

i am using a P2S (formerly a P1S) for printing of dental study & implat models if resin is not neccessary (& fdm is so much cleaner and less hassle!)

Regarding regular dental models, the P2S is equal to my resin printer (Phrozen Sonic 4K XL), BUT: when printing dental models for implants, the P2S is noticeable worse than my previous P1S and worse than the resin printer.

What’s the problem:

dental implant models have small holes (3-5mm diameter) and inside there is a triangular structure. A metal calibrated “lab implant” is inserted into these holes and the triangular structure prevents rotation of the “lab implant”. (see here: lab implant).

Something is wrong with the hole and the triagular structure inside. I have to apply great pressure and force to insert the metal lab implant into the model. I will most certainly squeeze the material. When ordering resin printed models at a printing service or if i print it with my resin printer, the lab implant will glide in smoothly.

The P1S was able to print the model with enough precision - the lab implant gilded in smoothly. The P2S seems to be different.

Materials used:

0,4 nozzle hardened
PLA Matte/PLA Basic/PETG HF (all Bambu)
PEI Plate/engeneering Plate with glue (did not make a difference)
Bambu Studio, latest Version & latest Firmware, AMS2 Pro
Setting: Auto-Hole compensation on/off did not have a noticeable effect

I tried to do a calibration with califlower which did not have any effect even if a bit of skew was fixed.

Do you have any idea on this? Thank you very much

The .stl looks like this:

When sliced, it looks like this:

[Mprints]

Try the “avoid crossing wall” feature and making higher tolerances. You also could use a .2mm nozzle

[RetroSharky]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

In short, it’s all about tolerances and calibration - you simply can’t compare that to a resin printer, even in terms of workflow and perfect fittings. Now, of course, the question arises as to why your P1S is more precise than your P2S. So first, the fundamental question: Have you calibrated your P2S if you need such precise parts? Have you already dealt with topics such as filament shrinkage?

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I think you might be interested in these two topics, which deal with how to achieve very precise printing:

Terrible tolerances/dimensional accuracy on stock profiles H2D

Hi everyone, We are currently using the H2D printer calibrated with the Vision Encoder in conjunction with Bambu filaments. However, we are experiencing significant issues with tolerances on the stock profiles. For example, when printing a part that should measure 150mm, we’re seeing inaccuracies of over a millimeter, resulting in parts that measure only 149mm. For instance, when using Bambu ABS, we’ve found that a shrinkage value of 99 is necessary. This means that, with the stock profiles, a …

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Shrinkage not compatible across printers? (weird results in this thread...)

Very confused and pretty alarmed at the results. I have just ran @Alex_vG shrinkage tests (which is great btw!) and come across a bit of a hurdle and wondered if anyone has noticed it before? Basically I have a H2S and H2C… I ran the initial test piece in ASA on the H2C, completed the spreadsheet and then ran the adjusted for shrinkage settings on the H2S expecting the shrinkage to be a lot better. Both using the same brand/type of material just not the same reel. But it’s still massively out…

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Regarding the image of the slicer, what layer height did you set? Because I don’t think the standard settings can reproduce the required precision and detail you need.

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Have you ever thought about switching to a 0.2 nozzle? Yes, that’s not the topic at hand, but I didn’t want to leave it unmentioned.

[user_4222293372]

Thank you very much! I’ve bought a 0.2 nozzle with the printer, so i’ll try it tomorrow. I forgot to add: i was using 0.08 as layer height with the 0.4 nozzle.
I will try the avoid crossing wall suggestion.

Regarding calibration:

i did all the calibrations in the printer’s menu and i’ve used califlower - but i did not do any additional calibration so far. Thank you for linking the two topics, i’ll look into it.