Ya high flow is great even if you print at standard speeds as it increases the part strength via layer adhesion. Also I tried going down the rabbit hole of making custom profiles for each filament with high flow hot end … but now I just use this shortcut instead, ludicrous mode. It increases the speed by 166% and the high flow hot end increases the flow by a similar amount. Lots of people will tell you to make high speed profiles and yes that is ideal, but I have way too many filaments types to bother. I do print at standard speed most of the time, but when quality is not paramount I just bump it into ludicrous.
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This is what I want haha. you had the obsidian?
My sport mode and especially Ludacris mode quality every time I do it
Yes only obxidian now + higher strength heater cartridge as without it you run into “temperature error malfunction” when you try to print fast as its cant keep up, especially on 0.6mm nozzle. I used to run the aliexpress CHT hot ends with dual stock heaters before it came out. But they dont have a full length throat so I would get clogs on the regular. I dont touch them anymore and would not run any hot end that does not have a full length throat.
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I have the micro Swiss cht cm2 and I am very pleased. So far other than changing the max volumetric flow I have forgone tweaking speed settings on the profile, and instead I have switched the printer to ludicrous mode and printed super fast without issue. Takes about 45mins off a 2.5 hour print.
Print quality appears no different than before. Of course that is subject to further testing.
Lewis
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Awesome! I appreciate the feed back. Have you had any issues at all?
Not so far, and I have printed a range of things.
Awesome! I appreciate the feed back. Have you had any issues at all?
Jeez. Awesome. Is the mod hard? I’m really looking for an easy plug and play
It was about as easy as can be. They provide straightforward instructions with photos.
I meant the mid for dual heaters or is that what you’re talking about too?
You dont need to do that anymore. I used to run the duals when there was no stronger aftermarket option. If you get the one from the link I posted its 82W instead of the stock 48W so its plenty strong.
Sorry no, I did not do any mod on the heater, I just used the new one that came with the hotend.
Oh gotcha but would still need assemble the nozzle.
I was looking at a complete option
Also looks like the obxidian complete comes with a stock 40w
Micro Swiss was bumped to 60w for the heater core
Yes you need a stronger heater otherwise you get temp errors when you try to print super fast. Most aftermarket hot ends include a stronger heater, not sure why E3D does not.
Its pretty easy to swap the heaters on E3D, same as bambu OEM.
PS: Stock is 48W
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I could have bad information but I micro Swiss definitely mentions it.
Alright everyone, after agonizing over this I’ve finally come to a conclusion. Hopefully, it works out. I ended up with the Micro Swiss Flowtech CHT CM2. After a lot of Internet research as well as talking to community members, I think it is a better option. Time will tell, but for those who are considering the two here is why I picked it.
- From customer service on a local website, I found out through hands-on experience that the flowtech has more bracing in the hotend. This indicates to me a higher level of quality in overall design.
- The max flow achieved with the micro Swiss seems to be a bit higher than the E3D even if only by a few mm/s.
- The stock heater on the E3D (even the complete version) is just that stock. The Micro Swiss heater cartridge has been bumped up to 60W.
- The Nozzle swapping system seems like it will be more practical. While being able to swap nozzles will be invaluable for different applications or materials, these high flows seem to have a clog issue in when they clog because of the CHT they both are hard to unclog. Being able to take the clogged nozzle off will be nice.
- Being in the US the support from Micro Swiss has been great. I know this doesn’t apply to a lot but it is nice for me personally
Past that my only concern is not being supported by Bambu but that’s a seemingly small worry compared to the rest.
Hope it helps anyone else. I’ll be back with results after it arrives and is installed.
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Is it oozing? Did you try PETG yet?
I had the Panda Revo but the oozing and its impact on print quality was so bad that I have switched back to the stock hotend.
I have had a little oozing, but so far I have only tried PLA and TPU. I am assuming I will need to alter my retraction settings a little to compensate.
That’s what I tried with the Revo as well, unfortunately didn’t help. I made custom profiles with Orca and whatnot, but the print quality was just bad.
I’d love a HF hotend with quick nozzle swaps producing the same print quality as the stock hotend, so very interested to see how the Micro Swiss holds up.