Phone bracket 2 with cord hole.3mf (176.5 KB)
This is an outdoor project. I want to print it in ASA on a Bambu H2S. It will hold a phone cradle on a golf cart. If I print it vertically it is too weak. I need to print it with the layer lines going the long way. I have not found a way to do that and get an acceptable print. The support interface areas are bad and the top has a stair step effect to it. I am new to this so I may be making a rookie error. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Bill
What about splitting it in half to print then screwing/gluing it back together?
Phone bracket 2 split.3mf (189.2 KB)
What support interface material are you using?
Besides - You are saying your are ānew to thisā but still know the term āsupport interfaceā. And the CAD design also looks like itās not your first design. So not sure if/why you are playing down your skills. 
Anyway, in case you are really new to additive manufacturing there is one thing to always keep in mind when designing products: Think about printablity. This seems like something you forgot during your design.
So if you want to have a nice looking print with this object you either need to print it upright (which in fact shouldnāt make a huge difference besides when it has to survive impacts in Z direction) or you lay it down and post-process it afterwards.
When you print the support interface with āSupport for ABSā post processing will be minimal but due to the size and rounded design there will me quite some extruder switches.
EDIT:
Bambu_ASA_Technical_Data_Sheet.pdf
XY and Z performance are quite similar for ASA besides impact resistance.
Thatās a crazy Idea that just might work! Iāll have to ponder that and try and figure out how to put it back together.
I did not consider the printability. I have printed so few things I thought I would figure it out. I have done 2D CAD for years. New to solid modeling. Post processing involves changing the finish I want to use it straight off the printer. I had a wrestling match with ASA CF8 and lost. I like the finish of CF better.
I canāt do anything I want drawing wise, but I try! Iām a retired design/manufacturing engineer. Not my first rodeo but I never rode this animal before.
Thanks for the help!
Simple. Add 2-3 cross drilled holes, countersink if you care in your design tool. Then import and split in the BL slicer as I did. Alternatively, use the negative object feature of the BL to add negative cylinders to achieve the drill holes then split it. I bet once you get started, youāll be off and running. Like you. I came with 2d CAD but hobby level experience and was not sure about 3D CAD. I tried Fushion360 and after a few videos had enough basics to get started then have not looked back.
First question:
Is this your model, did you design it?
If yes, then you need to tweak the design.
You add support to the plug end, you will likely need to sand it slightly.
This design appears to have a hollow centre, thus is not helping things, it could do if it had been designed correctly.
If this is your design, redesign it.
You need to design for printing which means working out where strength is required and designing for that strength as well as printability.
Cutting this model, will not ācut itā, it simply introduces new issues.
Ideally, the entire stalk should be flat, no changes in angle. The plug, should become a socket, with no support and ideally two āholesā for the plug to push into so there is a greater surface area for the socket and plug to grip with, ideally a screw hole on each to marry the parts when connected. Those holes should be placed in the bottom portion flats to the build plate so they can be printed easily with automatic strength.
Printing this flat model will print strength horizontally, and become vertically string when used.
The bracket that attaches to the golf cart can handle the design for the angle.
I appreciate the time you took to reply. I am having trouble understanding what you are suggesting. There is no bracket that attaches to the golf cart to handle the angle. I also want an elegant solution; it is not all function.
If the part is split the long way in the middle I could print with the cut down giving me the orientation. I need for strength. It does not have to be cracy strong but along the layer lines there are inherent weak spots in the design. I have been 3d modeling for 2 month and printing for about as long. When I started I did not know how strong or weak filament was along the layer lines. I am learning.
Thanks again for taking the time.
Bill
How do I open that file. I tried in Fusion 360 and it would not let me?
Here is an image of the Tray that the arm plugs into. I split the arm in half as suggested and glued it back together with Weld on 16. The glue is drying so we will see how it turns out. I have Considered re-designing it. The solutions I see to get the right orientation involve multiple components and with the angles involved I struggle with the drawing. I am sure with enough time I could figure it out. Whatās nice about the design is that I can redo the arm as needed to get the right solution. Honestly I am learning so much and not is a hurry so its all good.
Looks like you are making great progress. Back on the split design, Iāve had mixed results with gluing my 3d parts. Small machine screws are my go-to solution these days when I canāt design in a clip, hinge or grooved solution. I keep a selection of 2, 2.5, 3, 4 and 6mm machine screws around. Most of the time, just designing with a slight undersize and letting the screw cut itās own threads works. But something cheap like these is helpful as well Drill Tap Set, Valkynos 6 Packs Titanium Plated Combination Taps Drill Bit Set, M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Hex Shank HSS Screw Thread Metric Compound Tap Drill Bits Metal Drilling - Amazon.com There are better ones but its only plastic. Note: I turn them by hand. In your design, Iād be thinking 2-3 screws; recessing the heads with an oversized hole with an undersized pilot hole on the receiving side that stops a bit shy of the skin. Just a thought.
