Bambulabs makes nearly 1.5 Billion in sales 2026 as far as i remembered reading that somewhere …
How comes, that it seems nothing of that money lands into development of the slicer ? Bambu Studio is about a year or more behind Orcas development.
Dear Bambulab, could you please make the connection to Orcaslicer possible again i wish for nothing more than to leave this slicer ecosystem you locked me in to with buying a H2D.
I think you’d find that the lockdown, if you will, happened BEFORE the H2D launched. You chose to be in the ecosystem. They didn’t force you to purchase it.
Please share more of BL budget. We’d all me more than interested since you seem to have access to it.
Someone correct me if I’m wrong, because I don’t use Orca, but can’t you use it with BL printers?
It’s in the nightly. How stable it is no idea. So there’s that.
I hadn’t checked recently, looks like it is in now:
Can you walk me through how to start my own thread? I am new to the Bambu Forums.
Your topic is now here. Moderator has opened a separate thread for you. 
damn i missed the release of 2.3.2 last week, its in, im done deinstalling Bambu Studio for good if that works
@R3d-Five see ya, stick with BS if you like it that much more and disagree with people actuallly working with the software finding bugs and missing functions left and right.
Sigh, don’t put words into my mouth. Never told you not to use Orca, or want features. I was pointing out the arrogance of your statement.
But yeah, see ya.
orca works on h2d, but i cant remember how to set it up
however it will not work the laser etc, just the printer
i stopped using orca as they make too many breaking changes in each of their updates
I have been creating 3D models on the computer ever since the late 1980s, including aerospace industrial parts. Typically I would send a file containing the 3D model and an engineering drawing to a vender - a machine shop, a sheet metal or plastic fabricator, a foundry, or a welder. The vender would then take my files and input them into their software and program their machines. Then use the drawings for fabrication instructions, to double check the dimensions, and to inspect the competed parts. Sometimes the vender was an in-house shop.
Experience has taught me that the best results are had when one designs to the method of production. A variation of the form follows function concept. A part designed to be cast may not machine all that well, and a part designed to be machined may not work in a mold. If a part is to be machined, it is best to align the dimensions with standard cutting tool sizes. When designing with sheet metal, to design to standard bend radiuses and punch sizes.
Once I got into 3D printing, when a print didn’t print as I expected, rather than think the slicer settings weren’t right, my first thought was that the design didn’t align with the machine. For instance, standard screw threads print poorly on 3D printers. One can tweak their slicer settings all day long and half of the next and standard threads will still print poorly. Yet if one uses threads that have been specifically designed to print well, standard printer settings work just fine without issue. I have created some rather intricate parts that print without issue, using the standard settings, because they were designed to the machine. The only settings I change is I use triangles as the standard infill pattern. There is a reason that truss members almost always form triangles.
I have come to the opinion, and I share it with everyone who is just getting into 3D printing, “That 3D printing, especially on a Bambu Lab printer, is extremely easy if you use high quality models. But if you use poorly designed models, 3D printing will be very difficult.”
I wonder if there is a YouTube Video out there titled, The Psychology of Those Who Use Orca Slicer.
I’ve been watching the betas on Github. Seems Bambu is more concerned with Helio, the costly addon, than anything else with Studio.
I’m beginning my journey into learning 3D modeling, would you mind explaining what you mean by designing something to be 3D printed? I’d rather learn to do this now than have to re-learn it the correct way later.
The problem for orca is the printers firmware it doesnt have to develop its software for ,even snapmaker have stripped it to its bare bones ,
I am a professional designer working in plastics/ injection molding. There isn’t anything we design for injection molding that I can’t print on my 3D printers. I use primarily Orca, because it has the best, most complete tools. I use it for all of my machines, bambu included, with the exception of my H2C, which I use Bambu Slicer. I find that the core functionality is nearly exactly the same for what I need to do on either slicer. As soon as I feel like I can switch over to Orca in LAN/Developer mode, I will - because I find the two programs redundant.
So what do you gain by using ORCA? A few extra buttons to click? A warm fuzzy feeling?
Every single one of my printers will work with Orca. Some of the printers I own aren’t available on Bambu Studio. I can use any slicer, really. I just prefer Orca. The real question might be why do you have such strong feelings against Orca when there are about 30 different slicers out there?
For myself, the number one reason I prefer OrcaSlicer is that I can print with less hassle. Bambu Studio requires a manual connection to the printer every time it launches, and sometimes forgets the printer even during a session:
OrcaSlicer provides a reliable connection, every time, all the time:
We use slicers to control our printers and improve our prints. OrcaSlicer provides more control than Studio. If you don’t need or don’t understand the extra controls, Studio will usually work.
It’s easy enough to install OrcaSlicer to see the differences, and you can even use Studio and OrcaSlicer at the same time for comparison.
There is a slicer war going on. It is about control. For the user, learning how to use a given slicer well is a skill that requires considerable time. For the company simply reskinning orca and slamming their new printer configs in seems to be the happy path versus a more consumer friendly orca first approach. At the end of the day though, it’s about control.
When I was a kid I played with toy soldiers, cowboys and Indians, and characters for train layouts. They were all injected molded and withstood all the use and abuse I subjected them to. With the advent of the home 3D printer I thought it be a wonderful device to create those characters. But in practice it leaves much to be desired.
When looking on MakerWorld and elsewhere one finds plenty of available models. In model depositories there are professionally scanned models of people that look entirely realistic. Their original purpose was for use in architectural renderings. However people have discovered that those models, which are meshes, can be 3D printed. In order to print the characters accurately, they have to be printed standing upright. When they are printed upright they need supports and the end result is fragile - making them unusable for any kind of play. They can only be printed in one color because there is no underlying structure to hold the colors together. There are several people who have put up architectural models of people on MakerWorld. And also of those who have scanned army men. But if you print them, some will fall apart removing their supports, and others will break if not handled carefully. Making them entirely unusable as a toy. If the same models were made using injection molding, they would be as durable as the characters I played with as a kid.
However, if one looks at the way 3D printers lay down filament, one can determine that much more durable characters can be created by printing them horizontally. There is the trade off that certain poses won’t be possible and one loses resolution. Yet, providing one is building from scratch rather than using scanned images, one can create an internal structure that locks the different colors into an adhesive whole, allowing for full color durable characters. That is the advantage a multicolor printer gives you. You can create 1 inch tall characters with shoe, pant, shirt, skin tone, and hair colors all different. Full color durable characters. To model at this scale one has to be cognizant of layer heights and line widths as they are significant and limit your resolution.
This is a case where what works for injection molding doesn’t work so well when 3D printing and what works for 3D printing is not possible in injection molding.
