I have a P2S and want to print with 95A TPU successfully. I’ve read the hot-end recommendations, but could use input on which exact ones are recommended (which specific .6 or .8 hot ends should I add to my cart). Can I run a short tube directly from my Sunlu S2 dryer, or must I hang the filament off the back of the printer on a manual spool rod? I see someone mentioning a “TPU assist module”. Do you really need that? I frankly am about to forget about trying TPU at all, it seems such a pain. Thanks in advance for any help!!!
Ok. I don’t have a P2S, but I have been printing a lot of TPU 95A lately.
I actually was doing it on H2C’s to start, then got A1 minis for production after the prototypes were good.
I’ve done everything with standard 0.4 nozzle. I use an external spool, no going through the buffer. Simply going from the hotend to the spool.
The external spool is one I designed that uses skate board bearings / for pallet racks or walls. So it’s quite a distance from the machine. Can literally free wheel for a minute.
So if you are using the default spool.., my recommendation is at the very least to see if they have print in place bearings for the external spool holder on the P2S. I just want my filament path as straightforward and frictionless as possible for any sort of TPU.
So my spool holder has PTFE quick connector built into it. Trust me, it’s totally fine if your PTFE is shorter etc, and doesn’t make it all the way to from the tool head to the external spool. But I have printed everything TPU wise inside PTFE tubing to the tool head, not open air etc. And everything has been fantastic.
So it’s just a matter of manually loading from the external spool, making sure your filamanet profile settings are correct., grabbing some hair spray (I would) on the bed plate so the print actually comes off without ripping the PEI plate off at the end, and printing.
Edit: Just like to add., zero TPU module or any of that jazz. I keep the shop cliamte controlled and no humidity, so I never have to dry filaments unless they come totally wet. I’m sure with super soft stuff, the assist module really helps, but you shouldn’t need any of that with 95a TPU.
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Thank you so much for the excellent information. I’m trying it out now….
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No problem! Let me know how it goes!
print a top mount spool holder.
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Use the STANDARD nozzles, not the HF. Since I run the HF normally, I purchased standard nozzles and only use them for TPU. This removes the risk of cross contamination.
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yeah the top mount spool holder is a must have
absolutely! i couldnt get tpu to work before i printed one
Success! I used the factory rear spool holder. I dried the filament thoroughly and did the pull test to make sure the hot end was clear. Thanks all for the tips on the top-mounted spool holder. I’m space limited because the printer is on a shelf with the wall behind it. I’m printing out a side spool holder ( P2S Side Spool Holder with Ball Bearings - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld ) Has anyone printed directly out of a Sunlu S2 dryer? It seems like it should work. Thanks all for the great suggestions.
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I have a new .6mm tungsten carbide nozzle. That should work right?
Great to hear it worked 
No idea on the drier boxes. I would think it would work fine as long as the spool turns nice and easy.
What type of errors or artifacts are you finding? I wouldn’t think a P2S would have any real issues with 95A with a 0.40mm nozzle. I’ve printed 95A from my Sunlu S2, back spool holder, AMS HT’s bypass port, and a Polydryer box. None have been problematic at all (on a P1S or H2D/H2C). If you are printing 90 or 85A, that’s a different story.
I don’t really think the TPU module is all that great, but I have left it on. So… read into that what you will. Good enough to keep on, but I wouldn’t buy again if it broke.