I have tried over a dozen times to print with Bambu ABS filament and a 0.2 mm nozzle on my Bambu P1P 3D printer - but the unsatisfactory result is always as follows:
In my experience, small nozzles are a PITA with anything but PLA. But thats not the main reason.
The P1P is capable of printing ABS. Although it is more difficult, especially for larger parts.
Crank the bed temp to max and use a good brim. Slow down the speeds and increase nozzle temp. Printing ABS on an open printer is not fun because you have to add in extra heat to compensate for the loss of heat. The enclosure kit will help a lot (if you can find it).
The TL;DR answer: Yes, ABS on a P1P needs an enclosure or a controlled area where the air around the print stays warm and stable. In my experience, ABS becomes much easier once the chamber area is above roughly 40 °C.
I have successfully printed ABS on my P1P, but I printed my own enclosure. This was before the P1S was available.
My first setup was simple: I used gaffer’s tape to attach cardboard panels to the printer frame, then added bubble-wrap envelopes from build plates as insulation. It was not pretty, but it worked. The goal is to reduce drafts and prevent rapid temperature swings, which are what usually cause ABS warping, lifting, and layer splitting.
Obviously, keep the cardboard, bubble wrap, and tape clear of the bed, hotend, belts, and moving parts.
Let the printer heat soak for about 30 minutes before starting the print. I used a thermometer with wired probes inside the enclosure so I could confirm the air temperature was actually reaching and holding the right range. Once you start the print, do not open the enclosure till it is finished printing. Let it cool down naturally, do not open until the internal temp has dropped at least 10 °C.
For me, the enclosure and heat soak made the difference between fighting ABS and printing it reliably on the P1P.
After I printed my enclosure panels, I taped rare earth magnets inside the enclosure. Those mated with exterior magnets and made the bubble-wrap panels easy to remove. Not pretty, but effective.
This is the thermometer I used. It supports two probes, so I placed one near the top and one near the middle to see when the temperature had equalized. It does require USB power.
Here is the gaffer’s tape I used. Any good cloth gaffer’s tape should work. Avoid Gorilla Tape or duct tape because the adhesive is hard to remove, especially after heat exposure.
Here are the printable modplates:
One caveat: when I first got my P1P, I did not expect how much PLA would warp after repeated heat soaking. Temperatures above 40 °C can warp PLA enclosure parts enough to make them look ugly.
Also, the bezel for the early P1P was about 10 mm too short for the aftermarket glass kit. The P1S enclosure upgrade solves this, but I would order it soon if you want one, since the P1P has been discontinued and the upgrade kit may not be available forever.
I’ve done it with a P1P (0.4mm nozzle) but it is definitely not ‘click and go’. I initially used a cardboard box around the printer to enclose it, then later printed a modified self printed enclosure using Bambu’s personalized enclosure files (along with the glass door/top). If you choose to go with the cardboard box method, there is a small fire risk, so treat it accordingly. Personally, I would suggest the conversion/enclosure kit from Bambu if you plan to do ABS/ASA, or Nylon printing with it.
Also, I would suggest using glue on the bed. You may get lucky and keep the print on the bed without it, but I would add a layer of sticky insurance to help.
Otherwise it should work well. The profiles should be fine. Oh… make sure you keep it away AC vents or fans. Air drafts cause all sorts of issues for ABS.
