How to print faster 20+ frames on a 255 x 255 mm bed

Hi Printer Enhoustiasts,

I need to print +20 framse of ± 5mm high, widespread
and varie in surface.

The issue is that i need to , this way restart the work 20 times to have everything done.

I tried to resolve this by stapeling 2 frames , with a support in between , but then the highe frame has a bad bottom, therefore not usable nextto eachother.

See the picture of the result.

Could you advise me how I could resolve this printing process and be able to faster complete in shorter steps the 20 + frames

kind regards,

Jan




Have you considered trying a different material as a support interface separator for smoother bottom layers, in question combined with support enforcers to minimize bridging on the layered parts?

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Thank you very much this is a TOPTIP, Wil try it out this weekend! massive thanks

Make sure you do a good purge between materials!

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Printing in two materials with stacked parts will be a lot longer than printing the parts individually because of the purge times. Printing as a single layer part layout will be the fastest if you stay attentive to when a part completes. Need parts faster? Multiple machines is were you will save time.

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As your objects have a flat bottom, using a second material (PETG/Support W) just for the interface layers (bottom 0, top 2) should not add too much time.
The filament change and purge should only occure once and take less time then starting a new print.
But overall the print time for the support and interface might take longer then starting a new print.

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Hi All,

Your help is greatly appreciated; it’s amazing to be part of this community.

I’m going to try this out. My only concern is about the layer (from the below frame) from which I will build support for the next frames, with a PETG split for easy removal, that has a sunken parts. You can see this in the picture. How should I best organize my support considering this sunken part? So that also the below part remains “clean” after removing the parts

Kind regards,

Jan

Or multiple plates and a wife or kid with clean fingers lol. Thats my trick. “hey, the left printer is done, will you go swap the plate for me”

I would personally use petg as the bottom interface also. and do 0 gap. The surface underneath will be perfect. Just dont use the cold plate. Make sure you purge the max amount or the parts will have poor layer adhesion. Set your plate up as you like it, downsize it to 25% and run it as a test. You may find that youll also need to add additional purge into the prime tower if the normal purge max isnt enough(you wont be able to tell based on the color change of the filament as its leaving the nozzle. This is why i say run a test). If you have issues with the supports failing, slow down support speed.

You should be able to stack them up with this method so that you dont even need supports from the bed. No need to offset the parts.

Last tip, dont purge to infill unless the part can rely only on outer walls for strength.

This video just came up in my youtube feed by coincidence - describing stacking 3d printing https://youtu.be/xs2urfM0MRM?si=mZiBeTyaGFdoHVxq

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Hi,

I’ve experimented with this concept, but I’m encountering a problem: my frames aren’t flat at the top. They have a recessed area, which prevents the next layer from being properly positioned. As a result, I can’t achieve a smooth base for the upper frame.

Continuing the search…

The entire family is already involved in the business :wink:

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I notice he’s adding support in the magnet hole, which I don’t want because then I have to remove it as well.

I designed my own supports when I had this kind of problem. Its a bit of a pain, but I have to manually create a part for the normal behaviour, one for the interface, and then one for each top and bottom parts. I assign top, bottom and interface to have 100% infill. My ‘stack’ looks like this, orange interface, black the parts and top and bottom parts. It makes the slicing a bit complex, and something you only want to do one, and to do it right:

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waw, does bambu slicer (studie) let you create these?

What do you mean create? Geometrically I designed them in a CAD package (OnShape), supports and separate tops and bottoms. But after the design, it allows you to assign the by part properties well. I found if I export all bottoms as one stl etc, it made selection and assigning easier.

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tough traject, I don’t have the experience in model creation ,… yet

Ok, sorry, didn’t know that. This is defo easier if you can control the design. Onshape is free for makers as long as you don’t mind your designs being public FYI incase you wanted to give it a whirl.

another option is to paint the supports on

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Use PVA as yhe separation material that way if it gets stuck stick it in water.