The attached image is my fourth test for a larger model I have applied adaptive layers which improved it signaficantly but still not a satisfactory finish on the top of the curved surface. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. run on h2d
You will always have the stairstep with FDM, it is an artifact of 2.5D slicing. At least with todays tech.
On the horizon are some smoothign techniques the authors call “Z Anti Aliasing” where those steps get some minor movements to make it better, but you’ll need to chase some beta softwares if you want to try it yourself, and on the H2D IIRC you are still chained to bambuslicer.
If you can manage to orient the model to print 90degrees to the left/right, that curve will be smoother. Maybe not possible with your whole model, but working off the image. You can also disable “one wall on top surface” to alter the visual appearance of that to make more walls instead of more fill pattern. Check your slice preview to see
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As Bullocks has already pointed out, orientation is the key. You need to consider how you position the object. A cylinder appears almost perfectly round when printed from bottom to top. However, if you rotate it by 90°, it has steps.
A second option would be to use a smaller nozzle, such as a 0.2. Of course, this takes longer, but the result is also better.
Most people who prefer a simple, practical approach do this because it’s extremely quick: sand it down with sandpaper, spray it once with spray paint, and you’re done. You don’t need to use a special paint; a filler will do.
Accessing the machine settings in Studio, you can lower the minimum adaptive layer height below the arbitrary defaults.
I have had good results down to 0.03mm using a .4 nozzle on both my X1 and H2C. I consider 0.04mm layer height a safe bet.
Note that a smaller nozzle does not help in this instance as the lower layer height limit is given by minimum flow control.
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variable layer height(adjust it until the top 20 layers are at the minimum layer height) or just print the whole thing at minimum layer height, so you dont see color shade banding. Edit:As @EnoTheThracian said.
Im not sure that rotating it or using a smaller nozzle would help at all. Even laying it flat wil just move the stair steps to the edges, since it has rounded edges. but would help. Im guessing you have it in this orientation for a reason.
Ironing top layers may also clean up the tops of the steps.
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Change the orientation or optimize the design, or physically change the finished surface by removing/adding material after print.
Thanks for the suggestions.
@Deafcat22 I take it you mean sanding or painting?
I mean every kind of adding or subtracting is a potential option if the printed surface can’t be solved by orientation or design change.
Machining, filing, manual knife, rotary abrasive, to remove material are examples. Bondo/filler, coatings, it really depends on requirements.
I would like to try your suggestion but cannot find “adaptive layer height” in advanced or developer mode. I am running latest version of studio, How can I find that setting? I want to keep trying as the full scale model is to big to print on its side and need to be printed vertical.
thanks
Adaptive layer height appears at the top in the toolbar.
It gives you quite a convenient tool to trade quality versus print time. However, it uses minimum threshold that, in my view, are outdated and based on thin air.
If the minimum layer height for a given nozzle is insufficient, you can hover the mouse over your printer at the top left to make the setting icon appear. In the Extruder settings, you can set your own threholds.
Just do not go below 0.03mm.
Flow control becomes really tricky below 0.02mmÂł/s.
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Edit: Addendum: