How well does the stock air filtration work?

My Concern with the Smoke Purifier Path:

  • The purifier operates on the printer’s positive-pressure exhaust path, so VOCs and UFPs must first pass through the chamber and then the purifier to be captured.
  • Before being filtered, a portion of emissions—especially styrene from ASA/ABS—can leak out through door or lid gaps, particularly in a compact apartment.
  • Activated carbon filters also tend to lose efficiency over time, especially with styrene and aldehydes, meaning efficacy can drop just when you need it most.

Alternative Idea: Top-Vent + Negative Pressure System

  • Modify the lid to include a sealed 100–125 mm duct port.
  • Connect an inline fan (similar spec to the one mentioned) via insulated ducting to a sealed window panel with a backdraft damper, exhausting directly outdoors.
  • Run the fan at the minimum speed that still creates a slight negative pressure inside the chamber—confirmed by an inward draft at the door seam.
  • With only one exhaust point (the lid), leaks become intake, ensuring that contaminated air is drawn back in rather than out.

My Key Questions for the Community:

  1. Has anyone tried this “top-vent negative pressure” setup on the H2D—particularly with ASA or ABS? Does the chamber hold its ~50–55 °C temperature reliably?
  2. Do you find that it contains emissions more effectively than the smoke purifier alone, especially with regard to long-term VOC/UFP control?
  3. Any unexpected issues—like airflow sensors, chamber stability, or print inconsistencies—when running external suction like this?

I haven’t found testing or documentation yet confirming that this method actually works for the H2D. Would love to hear from folks who have experimented with it and can share real results.