Just the default settings. It is the plate selection that seem to determine the plate temperature.
Just got mine. First print attempt failed immediately. I hadn’t washed the plate nor did I turn off the build plate detection and hit “resume” when it failed to detect the super tack plate. So one or both of those resulted in nothing sticking.
Then I did both of those things and had a successful print. Default settings for the plate. I’d say the adhesion was pretty good. The vertical piece was well attached (one of the supports stayed on the plate when I released the part). The flat piece was not warped or anything and popped right off with a plate flex. So far so good. Nice not having to use any glue and the bottom surface finish was quite good.
I’ve so far done two prints on it using BL’s PETG-HF and I have mixed feelings about it.
With the calibration cube, it was super easy to remove and I like the bottom finish.
However, when I printed a spool for filament, it was stuck on. Heating it to 50 °C didn’t help so it was a combination of waiting for it to cool, bending the plate, and gently poking at the edges with the scraper.
The spot where the nozzle cleans itself is already starting to feel so I don’t know how well this would hold up long-term. Really worried about PETG sticking too well and then being a pain to remove and damaging the coating.
I also noticed that the PETG-HF defaults to a temp of 70 °C for the build plate.
but why the super tack has this hole for and wat is it used for pls tell me
The very useful hole has many purposes:
- To hang out and dry in the fresh air after a stressful wash?
- For some kind of tool/holder that is yet to be released.
- To stimulate the mind, to philosophize about meaningfulness if necessary (no offense).
I have no clue and I was wondering too. 
I’m actually struggling quite a bit with it. I was not able to get down a first layer successfully. It always came out scratchy and jagged. I’ve swapped back to the textured PEI plate that my printer came with. No issues with it.
I’ve given the thing a scrub with a paper towel, warm water, and some dish detergent, re-run system calibration, scrubbed again, and re-calibrated again. I feel like I’m going insane with the thing. I made sure to change the plate in Bambu Studio, but there must be a box I forgot to tick or something.
100% same problem here with mine. looks 1:1 the same 
Polyterra PLA
A further update on my experience. I did not like using PETG-HF on it. PLA holds really well for me, and can be tough to get off in some situations. PETG-HF was different though. It left more of a mark, was more difficult to get up, and the print didn’t go well overall. The bottom layers separated. I’m not even entirely sure what to think.
I typically use the textured PEI plate for PETG and PETG-HF. I will probably still keep using them. I might try again with the supertack plate at some point, but I worry if it’s going to cause a lot more wear to the plate than PLA use has been.
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Same here… I tried to use Creality PETG CR filament, and found that with the default settings, objects with a larger surface contact area (like brims) tend to adhere just fine. With some other smaller objects, the model would lose adhesion to the plate, resulting in failed prints. I tried adjusting the bed temperature from 35 to 40 degrees, and I’m giving that failed print another go right now. I also found that my X1C doesn’t recognize the plate, and had to disable plate detection in order to make it work at all. Right now, I’m not very impressed with the way this plate works “out of the box”. I’m hoping some fine tuning will change that.
Back in stock again for the U.K., in my basket, I go to the checkout at which point they are pulled from the basket. Again!!!
The build plates were in stock in the U.K. for less than 6 hours today given the stock alert email I was sent.
Now not available until the 21st of December.
This is a joke. @BambuLab how many SuperTack Build Plates have you shipped to the U.K. and when will the stock levels last more than a few hours every week to ten days?
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Mine worked great for a couple weeks, then nothing but failure after failure.
I tried washing the plate, different filaments, re-drying those filaments, disabling the plate detection, still nothing sticks.
I have been using mostly BL PETG-HF, but even BL PLA doesn’t work.
I’ll also say that the plate feels different than it did at first. Wondering if removing the PETG-HF parts which were stuck on very well caused an issue with the surface.
This is what made me super concerned the first time I printed PETG-HF on it. The imprint it left behind gave me the impression that perhaps PETG-HF could rip that surface up pretty quickly.
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I have only used mine for PLA so far. My experience with PETG on the textured plate is that it often sticks too well, even to that, and I can see some damage to the textured plate from PETG prints, or maybe small bits of PETG that are stuck so well I cannot get them off with my scrubbing.
I don’t think I will use my supertack plate with PETG even though it says it is OK to do so.
But I do like it for PLA. I have had very good results so far, but to be fair, I have almost as good results with PLA on a textured plate and it pops off much easier than the supertack where I usually have to use a scraper to get even the PLA prints off.
I got mine in yesterday. I got one for each printer and ran prints on them yesterday, PLA and PETG worked great. Today I can’t get anything to stick to any of them. Recalibrated, washed plates, ABL before every print and still nothing sticks. I really hate to have to glue new plates that are supposed to stick without it.
I am not a fan… I’ve done 2 prints so far… using BL Basic PLA and it both cases the material of the plate has ripped or cracked? No idea how or why… and yes I waited for the plate to cool before removing it or the parts… it did this with a light flex to get the parts off (even less than what I use for textured plates).
And no, I did NOT use a scraper… a small amount of flex… those appeared… seems very fragile to me.
Sorry for the edit, did not have enough trust level to post images until now.
OMG dude you SAVED MY LIFE. I was wondering what the hell was going on with my supertack! I was SO excited, it even delivered on Christmas day which was so awesome… Then I stuck it into the printer, and then got the build plate QR code error… Proceeded with plenty of bed adhesion turned on (like the brim, etc) that I had no issues with on the textured plate and NOTHING would stick. I’d get more spaghetti than at an Italian restaurant. I just turned off my build plate detection in the printer and about to start printing again. I hope this is it. If it is, thank you so much!!
Glad to hear it!
Check out this updated advice:
It worked!!! You are awesome. Thank you so much.
So are we supposed to be using glue on this because I’m dealing with a lot of warping on this plate. Very disappointing.
For me, the adhesion for PLA has been fantastic. A bit too fantastic in fact. For bigger flat parts I just seem to be unable to get it off the plate without damaging the first layer. I just had several 10x10 cm flat pieces where it ripped the bond between first and second layer - it’s just too much. It’s certainly a great plate for small parts that absolutely have to stick but for bigger ones I will probably go back to the textured plate. It’s a shame really because the surface finish is marvelous. Unfortunately, that also is a double edged sword. I love the result but any small particles or damage in the plate ruins it and you can see it, especially with black filaments. I have to be really really careful to make it squeeky clean before I print something where I want a perfect surface finish, but since the plate is so sticky I managed to damage it first try with the scraper.
Long story short: the plate is an emotional roller-coaster.