So I have tried several things and filaments to try an color in a logo on a model I am printing. The model is printed in pa612 and I was told to use a PLA to color the txt in but that was not good. So I bought some PA6-CF and tried that but it was stringing bad and not doing a good job. The model was created in Fusion and the “TXT” was created in Fusion as well. I created the TXT to be embossed into the model. Then opened it up in slicer and painted in the PA6 white color into where the txt was cut. Just not working well any advices rom anyone that has done this?
PLA bonds to hardly anything. So that is not surprising.
PA6 needs really thorough drying. PA6-CF prints rather well even on a pre-heated X1 in my experience if thoroughöy dried.
Bambu recommends 12h at 85°C.
Do you need the text embossed? Or would flush work as well? Using a modifier for text works quite well in my experience.
& 
No Flush is fine but when I try and use the modifier under the txt tab the color in Bambu studio is not correct. So say I have a white PA6 if I use part I get white txt on the model but I cannot get flush text, If I use cut you cannot color that and if I use modifed I get another color usually yellow brown on the model not the white. Any ideas?
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Just a quick reply as it is time for bed here.
- Try the built in Text tool in Studio to apply text to the model.
- Make the text 1mm thick.
- Right-click the text either in the “Object” tab or the model
- Select “Change type” to turn it into a modifier
- Right click the modifier and “Change Filament”. The modifier will still be yellow, but the text will have a color assigned to it in the object tab.
- Use the “Move” tool to sink the modifier into the model
=> Slice
Extra points for:
- Using “Arachne” wall generator (Quality settings)
- Select the Modifier in the object tree and use a “concentric” surface pattern to minumize holes in elaborate fonts
- Use “Monotonic Line” rather than “Monotonic” for the surface the text is on. Again to minimize holes close to the text.
, & 
,
Eno
Where can I learn more about what you are saying in the extra points? I’m interested.
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Along with @EnoTheThracian ‘s recommendations.
Pictures and attaching the print profile is a good idea. Im a visual guy.
I am also curious to how the PLA lettering turned out
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I am afraid that is mainly learned by trying it out.
- The extra points come from holes being created due to the sharp turns the round nozzle takes and elaborate text tapering out, well below nozzle diameters.
“* Arachne” allows printing lines thinner than the nozzle diameter (there’s a little poo-up that takes you to the wiki when hovering over the “Wall generator” text). - Similarly, sharp nozzle turns are minimized by concentric surfaces. So there are fewer tricky corners. Unfortunately, if used for the surface surrounding rhe text, it gives a messy overall impression.
- Both “Monotonic” and “Monotonic Line” have sharp turns. But at least the “Monotonic Line” follows the inner wall contour.
At least these are some of the key lessons learned from making 4 to 5 dozen pencil cases for family, friends and calleagues a few years ago.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/835485-travellers-pencil-case-print-in-place-latching#profileId-780643
Best wishes,
Eno
When I have to do this with very different material, I don’t print my text with the base model, instead I either use negatives in slicer or just make my text as a cut in CAD, print the text separately and push my text in the model. If the text is on the side, it’s even best to do that as the quality is 1000% better even when using same material
This is ABS and PLA, right is multicolor, left are logos printed separately placed in their recesses
Edit: just read the post again and it’s PA on PA so that should work but never tried it, I only have black PA 
You posted in H2 series, is it a H2D/H2C or a H2S? Do you use both nozzles or has the base PA layer time to cool when changing the color if using one nozzle only which might be the issue. Also I don’t think CF is great at giving a nice print for text except may be if text is large enough
I have the H2D and use one nozzle for the black and one for the fill.
If it is not for mass production, you can try to print the label separately and glue it.
Nylon also dyes well, though I have not tried that with FDM printed nylon. (SLS nylon dyed great).