Thanks a lot for your work .
I assume the extra bare cable around the Thermistor Cables is a Shield to isolate them from the AC-power… I think you have done a double shield in your setup. One ground with Signal and Power, and a bare cable around the thermistor cables to the same Power Ground.
Nice looking cables with the TechFlex Mesh 
Please, could you share your CAD or STL version for the Printer?
THANKS!!!
I did run a double ground on it because it made more sense. I don’t see how they could call it a shield since it’s a single wire that is loosely wrapped around the other cables. I think It was meant more for stress relief than anything.
I’ll try and figure where I can post it and put the link here.
Thanks
Mark
thanks a lot for your help. It makes more sense to do a complete shield instead a bare cable around the thermistor cable…
Im happy to see people starts to rewire the bed. It´s not difficult if you know what are you doing… AC beds are used in a lot of printers.
Hope you can upload your design soon!! thanks again!
Here ya go…
Let me know how it works for you guys.
Happy Printing
M
Been running prints for many hours now with no issues at all. Well other than the fact I touched the PEI sheet with my fingers while it was hot and started having issues with prints not sticking. Found that using a cleaning brush used for vegetables hot water and dawn dish (or any grease removing soap) works absolutely great verses your hand or even a cloth. Also wait for your prints to cool before removing them, seem like breaking them loose leave some type of residue behind that causes the next print not to stick. Not exactly sure why
Seeya
M
This is impressive! Thanks for sharing this
Great job and thanks for sharing. Hope only those with the right skills will attempt this. I am curious if your post mortem revealed why the cable failed and the black wire melted?
Well upon inspection it appeared that the original cables (at least mine) were stressed to the point that 4 or 5 strands had broken on the outer surface. While you may not think this is a lot you must remember that there is a thing called “the skin effect” where voltage tends to travel on outer strand of the wire. combine this with the fact the original wires were relatively small diameter, every broken strand causes the remaining existing strands to have to carry more current and that will generate extra heat. The black wire was not really melted but the insulation had softened to the point it had bonded to the other wires. That was showing the current through the existing strands was generating excessive heat. It had not gotten to the dangerous point yet, but if I had continued to use it there would have been damage.
I worried when I first received the printer because when the bed was fully forward the cable seemed over bent. If your going to be using wires in a moving part they need to stay relaxed. That means no unusual or drastic bends, also one must remember that there are actually not 3 wires in that cable but 8. This means that in a bend that there is actually more stress. That’s why I separated the 2 cables it gave the silicone test wire even more ability to flex freely. I don’t know where the original damage originated. The wire I used had way more strands and was 2x thicker than the original. Bed temps are much more stable and since I actually made the cables a little longer no more flex at the strain relief. I really like this printer it is a true game changer, in fact I’m seriously considering buying a second with my 120.00 credit. I truly don’t believe there will ever be a 3D printer that is ever going to be an out of the box experience, in fact I wouldn’t buy it if there was. The only way it could happen is a totally closed environment. I honestly think it’s good thing to make people learn and make them gain the proper experience of using any machine.
I was never one of those users who where getting their torches pitchforks ready because of this issue, I figured I jumped in early and there would be bugs. and I was fine with it. I believe one of the biggest issues in this whole thing is social media, everyone wants to be the first to break a story and that translates into hits, hits generate money. So sensationalism over rules common sense. Everyone starts getting their knickers in a twist and then it simply snowballs from there.
Anyway sorry for the rant. I hope this helps
Happy Printing
M
Even with the recall, I’m anxiously awaiting for the A1 to be available to order again. I bought the A1 Mini to hold me over until it comes back and it’s been an amazing experience. Zero issues. Zero tinkering. Just set it up and get to printing.
If you are afraid of liability, 3d printing might not be for you. The entire industry is built on sketchy hardware.
Hardware I can deal with, it’s sketchy users that worry me… Everyone thinks they are an expert thanks to Google and You Tube.
Seeya
M1
hmm, this is great work! I don’t need to replace the cable at this moment, but i need to replace the temp sensor. Have a malfunction, temp sensor related. Do you, by any change, know the exact component or replacement? thank u
fixed it: see reddit post on reddit ‘heatbed temp sensor component’
Update:
Well since my original post of the 15th of Feb I’ve been using the A1 non stop. I’ve racked up hundreds of hours on this mod and it’s this thing is rock solid. I’ve ha zero problems since I updated the wiring.
As a owner of many different printers I can say the A1 is quickly becoming my go to printer for most stuff.
Also I’ve had almost zero prints fail, other than forgetting to clean the print sheet after a ton of printing.
I’ve printed a adapter mount for the AMS lite to allow it to be mounted onto a dual monitor arm (heavy duty one). This allows me to position the AMS lite virtually anywhere next to the printer. I also installed a monitor on the other arm with a NUC running windows. This let’s me do time lapse videos for clients.
Things I’ve learned:
I will say that making sure your hands are clean when handling the print sheet is critical. Also I’ve found that the AMS Lite seems to have a limit on just how far you can push the filament down the tubes. I think this is more a tube issue than the actual AMS Lite. I purchased the 4000mm of tubing from Bambu Labs, it came rolled very tightly and it did not want to relax straight. This causes excessive drag and the AMS motors were seeing this as a tangle issue and not allowing the machine to load properly. Going back to the original tubes fixed the issue. I’m on the lookout for better tubing that will not stay coiled after unpacking.
If anyone is interested in a photo of my setup I can post one.
Seeya
M1
You could try lying the tubing out in the sun for a few hours to relax it. Lie it out straight with weights on the ends and it should be good to go.