I'm having a love / hate relationship with my X1C, how about you?

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Back to: HATE: After 2 successful prints, I get 2 failures nothing changed and now the filament is stuck and not extruding - investigating why this is. I am being quite reserved here at the moment - but believe me I want to scream.

I heated to 260 and there was a clog - I had a .20 nozzle on. I just switched back to my .40 nozzle, changed the hardware setting back to .40 and now running a self-test. This is exactly the ■■■■ I am talking about. I just reprinted the same 1hr print a 3rd time and it appears I got a clog. I never had any of these problems with my Prusa MK3s. I have 2 more AMS modules that I bought still in the box and I am thinking about returning them. I am not liking this printer but am determined to get it to work.

Now you have sunk the nail 100% in one fell swoop!

I like the AMS but it’s more than clear that it is still a long way from loving it. In fact, it`s todays only reason to buy a Bambulab - displays, lidar etc. are nice but the AMS is the “unique point of sale”. I also wanted a second AMS quickly, but after the first month the wish was off the table without any discussion.

Everything else has to be picked up by all other manufacturers, like Bambulab did. And when it comes to abrasive materials, who needs color changes? Since 3 days, they are no longer the fastest and have been overtaken by more than a little by a lower price…

So the reconfiguring for the .40 nozzle and modifying the appropriate configuration settings all worked again with my test print but the quality was a bit different then I would like - but I had to test and make sure the extruder wasn’t clogged as it is easier to swap the hotend than open the extruder - luckily it wasn’t - so I just switched back to a .20 nozzle and I am watching it print now as I type this. I have never spent so much time troubleshooting before - I am creating very thin multi-color prints at .60mm high. I do it on the Prusa with 2 colors manual swap - no issues. I have had a few successes with them on the X1C - but I want to get to that level of consistency and repeatability like I have with my Prusa MK3s - the only reason I bought the X1C was because of the AMS. My Prusa MK3s do fine and have been for years with very little issues. BUT this thing (X1C) is becoming a big thorn in my butt. I can tell you - all started out well this morning - 1st print was fine, then I tried another one and it had some minor imperfections that weren’t on the first - it just baffles me. Then the 3rd one - didn’t work at all as the nozzle became clogged. Maybe I am doing something wrong - if so it is still not clear to me.

Do you change the nozzel size also here?

I also wanted to use 0.2 on the printer for finer work, but at this point I just save my time and use the old printers… Then the first layer in standard Bambulab Profil get`s back at 40mm/s…

Yes indeed , that’s the first setting I change and I also run through a self test too after changing that. I try to be very thorough as I really want this to work - yes of course because I spent a lot of money - lol - but also because I’ve had some success as well and keep thinking there is something that needs to be “dialed in” so to speak - unless I got a lemon or something. I did open a ticket with them but that remains to be seen.

OK print is complete - it looks good - but I have curling on the edges now where I previously didn’t. unbelievable

Success!

OK did another one it came out perfect - .simple 2 color print, 0.2 nozzle hardware, 0.2 nozzle profile, engineering plate, glue stick, bed 65c - filament overture PLA 220c first and 220c other layers - the rest of the settings default.

Starting one more - just cleaned bed, applied glue and reprinting, no changes - I will report back.

OK Nope, the print was not 100% successful - this is exactly what I am talking about - overall the print was sort of successful - but:

Got an error message - mentioning Spaghetti defects


I clicked resume and the print finished. When it finished there was a ball of filament on the top of the print that I was able to pick off.

There was “poop” all on the bottom of the enclosure under the plate

Finally the wipe tower was warped. - These are same settings I used on the previous print which worked.

WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!! Where is the consistency!!?!?! I am so sick of this - I want my money back!

@mgtarallo

I didn’t immediately know how to react to that.

Basically you’re right, everyone knows it but no one has actually mentioned it yet (related to spaghetti detection) - or at least I haven’t noticed comments on that.

That’s a pure love-hate relationship for me where you simply learn to accept the hate. So I wouldn’t give it back because of that, but I had to take a deep breath too.

The perfect example for this love-hate relationshipis is a very colorful napkin holders with a printed on URL website address (for a friend’s business). This napkin holders turned from a 24 hour print for 3 pieces. a into a 3-days print for 3 pieces as well… However, we made more pieces since they provided a very well number of hits to the website… as I said, a very intimate love-hate relationship…

Glue for PLA? Why? PLA sticks amazingly good to the cold plate.

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That’s the thing - yes I did use glue for the PLA - and it was almost impossible to remove - IMHO the Z index is way too low and they don’t allow you to adjust it. I have finding out from other posts on Reddit that I am not the only one with these types of adhesions issues - so I abandoned the cool plate and use a heated engineering plate and usually when it works - it works well.

Update - you may find this interesting - call it “user error” - but it definitely is not something I expected - I will report back:

Hi everyone,

I am also a new member in the X1C community (since Black Week). I printed the first models and see some issues with the print quality. Filament is original from Bambu Lab and I not set any other configuration as the slider provides.
The filament on the Photo is the PLA Basic filament from Bambulab printed on Bambu Cool Plate.
If the printer is in “Standard” speed the print looks very ■■■■, but when I switch to silent mode it look nicer. It looks like some layers are missing.

Thx for your reply :wink:

But you can, and Bambu themselves does so for the textured plate.

{if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"}
G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; for Textured PEI Plate
{endif}

Is that applicable for what you want to do? You could replace the -0.04 to some other figure, and you could drop or change the if.

FWIW I’m not so sure adjusting Z is the solution (on a Bambu) that you think it is.

OK all - thanks for your contributions and suggestions - just wanted to place an update

#1 - there might be something going on at Bambu Lab in regards to support - I opened a case 5 days ago and still have not heard back from anyone - (another JST connector pin pulled on my hotend - when switching - these things really dont have great quality control)

#2 - gave it a few days and started a brand new print job as I type this - I will report back - but this time being extra diligent about making sure all settings and selections are dialed in perfectly like my last successful prints. I hope to report success.

Hi Manu - I apologize for the delay - have you had any success? It looks like under extrusion on the top layer - have you tried again?

Hi,
thanks for your answer. I am currently discussing the issue in another thread, because there are more errors like nozzle clog.
Currently I not having success for better extrusion because the calibration of the flow rate failed because of worse quality.

My relationship with the X1C has been love/love. Maybe my experience coming from a total PITA printer (Bibo2) set a completely different level of expectation and subsequent exponential leap in usability - but with Bambu I spend WAY more time printing problem-free than troubleshooting. I am going on 1000 hours with 2 AMS and I still love it like the first day I got it back in February.

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