Both… Warm water + Dish Soap, dry with paper towerl. then clean with IPA 99, then add glue stick layer
I have found that the best and simplest method that just works for me is to Clean the build plate with washing up liquid then use a red scotch brite pad and rub it all over the plate in multiple directions to leave fine scratches in the plate and then just dust it of with a clean cloth then print direct on that I find this just works. mostly I print pla or abs.
1 Like
All of the information I read indicated that ethyl alcohol had problems leaving contaminants. IPA was preferred for all the uses that I checked because it does not leave anything behind.
my experience is that IPA actually leaves more residue than the Ethanol (much more)
I can’t remember the source I got that from, but I can see why how that could be when I see the atomic make up of IPA. But unfortunately, I can’t test it to prove it.
One thing of note, Bambu also mentions contaminants being left behind with IPA, so I’m more apt to heed their suggestions.
Chemist I contacted said that in theory 100% IPA or 100% Ethanol would not leave anything and that white “haze” we see left on the surface is actually a “slight corruption of the surface” and that IPA is worse at that (corrupts surface more) so for many plastics and resins while IPA/Ethanol cannot dissolve them they will corrupt a surface and leave a white haze, IPA more than Ethanol 'cause it has bigger organic chain and is less polar. I know IPA will leave white residue on FR4 and on copper and on pcb soldermask lack… as I can see it daily. Another thing chemist said is that both IPA and Ethanol sold here have “additives” to make them smelly and Ethanol also another additive to make it disgusting if you want to drink it, and that those additives do not evaporate… I heard somewhere about some other chemical residue from IPA but chemist didn’t confirm that.
I had not seen that. Thanks.
1 Like
Hello everyone. Thank you all for the additional thoughts and information. Very helpful in my thought process and underlying science. 
Hi folks,
Just my two cents from my days of inorganic and organic chemistry…
IPA is water soluble and not helpful in dissolving oils…that’s why gentle detergents are recommended to remove the oils from our fingers that get on the build plates.
Since most filament polymers are hydrophilic (which is why we dry them and store them with desiccant), IPA does a pretty good job of removing filament residue that collects on the plate.
I used both, and both work well independently, haven’t noticed any difference. That being said, if my plate gets dirty, I give it a soap wash and a gentle wipe with IPA. Or just use IPA to wipe it if I see fingerprints.
I have to defer to the chemist. There are so many different sets of information about solvents and especially IPA that it is very hard to find the “truth”.
Do you all remove the plate to clean it with dawn or just do it on the machine?
I think it would be more beneficial as well as far less destructive to wash it in the sink.
Unless you’d like a new printer.
2 Likes
Remove the plate, wash with warm water and rinse thoroughly in the sink.
It is very difficult get all the water out of the chamber after you rinse it with the garden hose. 
Fun fact: alcohol is a major ingredient in Dawn detergent.
1 Like
I only use IPA if there is something I suspect soap isn’t getting.
Things about IPA - if you don’t flood the IPA off the plate with more IPA you risk redepositing whatever you were cleaning off. You want only clean IPA evaporating off the plate. But as IPA evaporates, if there are any impurities in it, those get left behind and could be a source of adhesion issues.
Use lots of IPA and wash it down the drain and you can have very flammable vapors generated in your plumbing. Usually not too much of an issue but something to keep in mind. Be sure to flush the IPA by running water after you clean your plates.
I’ve used IPA on others’ advice but it hasn’t made much or any difference over using warm to hot water and dish soap, a thorough rinse, and a pat dry with an unscented plain old white paper towel.
2 Likes
It took me quite a while to figure this out. I’m a dish soap or IPA then dish soap man now too.
3 Likes
I wash plates that have sat for a bit with good ole Dawn, in the sink. My hose doen’t reach my printer.
I have a spray bottle full of alcohol beside the printer. Every third or so print i wipe it off.
2 Likes
I use basic grocery store IPA in a spray bottle and a paper towel. If I see any adhesion problems, I use dish soap and a paper towel or hand towel that hasnt been dried with fabric softener. Or once a month. Ive personally found that dish soap is really needed when the plate is newer. Once mine have worn in, they always stick. You also get better at not touching it
2 Likes
Australian using “Fairy” which I suspect is a similar base to Dawn with no frills. My practice involves nitrile gloves with a sink of hot water with the obligatory squirt of fairy, quick and light scour (clean pad not used for pots) and lint free kitchen paper towel. In between I am a habitual windex user, it helps with the bite and is nice smelling 
2 Likes
You need to use soaps that removes oils and fats, like dishwasher soap, not soaps you scrub yourself with in the shower. Chemical soaps like dishwasher soap are specifically designed to remove oils and fatty solutions …like fingerprints…Just make sure you use a non-residue paper type to wipe it off and rinse in as hot water as you can. I use TORKY kitchen paper, which is a “non-flossy” type of kitchen paper that acts more like a cloth. No residues whatsoever after washing with ZALO which i use.
2 Likes