Fortunately (because you are posting here in the X1 section) you have an X1 that automaticallt calibrates filament at the start of each print, and an AMS that reads the label on the filament roll 
Unfortunatelly Bambu seems unable to keep enough filament in stock 
Unfortunately, not everyone uses all Bambu filaments and if you use a PEI hotbed plate, it gives you an error if you select auto calculate. 
So I bought Creality High Speed filament with a speed range from 20-600mm/s to try to speed up prints in my older, non-Bambu printer, but hadnât tried it yet.
When I set it up in my BS for my X1C, I bumped the speeds way up to match the max speed of the filament, but I am getting print times for a Benchy at 30mins even though the print speeds at 3-4x the defaults. Is the estimation by BS off or am I doing something wrong? I just started using BS when I got my printer last week and Iâve only used the software with my previous printer and Simplify 3D.
If the âincludedâ Benchy (which I expect has some hand-tuning going on) can print in 17 mins with Bambu PLA filament, I would think that filament designed to print 3-5x faster than standard PLA would be able to print it much faster. That was why I was suspecting it may be a âgeneralâ speed estimate that isnât fully taking in the full high-speed of the filament. Then again, it is likely I am missing some settings here.
Top speed is limited by volumetric flow rate. Did you increase that value in the Filament setup, or only the slicer speeds in the slicer setup?
I did not bump up the flow rate at the filament level yet, but will do that now. It was at 18mm/s.
So, from how it sounds, the layer speed isnât as important as the flow rate? I could set it to be 2000mm/s (if the printer supported it), but if the flow rate was 18mm/s it would still be printing at the same same as if I left the speeds stock?
So did some slice testing. If I use generic HS pla (18mm/s) and .24 draft, I get 34min print time. When I change to HS pla (25mm/s) and .24 draft at 400mm/s outer and 460 inner wall, sparce infill, and solid infill, I still get a 34mm/s print speed when sliced.
I canât figure out what I am doing wrong here.
The upper limit on print speed is a function of whichever of these is lower.
Like your car on the highway. A speed limit of 70MPH doesnât matter if your car can only hit 60MPH. But if your car can go 100MPH on the open road, that 70MPH limit does matter.
Thanks. Still learning this software and printer. It is still insanely fast compared to my old one that topped out at 120mm/s.
Also bear in mind that you wonât be hitting very high speeds in an absolute sense on a benchy. Because the print path is constantly changing direction, youâre mostly just accelerating and decelerating, but never getting to a very high speed because youâre never accelerating for long enough in just one direction. Makes sense?
The maximum flow rate calibration test is designed to give you a long straight-a-away so that you can gain speed.
Yes, one can just load and go. Maybe the caveat here is to use default setting everything. For people who are new to 3D printing or new to Bambu Lab printers, I would recommend using the default setttings and just let the printers do their job.
assuming they have a profile thatâs reasonably matched to their filament. So, for beginners, that probably means buying Bambu Labs filament, since they cover the spectrum and the profiles are built-in. The generic profiles can be off by a mile.
Not really. I have used Bambu Lab filaments, Sunlu, Inland, and also some from Amazon that I donât remember the brand name anymore. Also eSun
Thanks. I hadnât thought about the Benchy not giving enough space to benefit from the higher speed filament. I have highspeed PLA (up to 600mm/s) and TPU (up to 100mm/s) that I wanted to test if they could really print at those speeds and give a good result. I will look for larger models to use to test the speed differences.
Your explanation about why I wouldnât see those speeds on a Benchy clears up a lot.
A really big rectangle with nice rounded corners (large turn radius) works best if you want to build up speed.
Velocity = Acceleration * time^2. So for any given acceleration, top speed reached is a function of how long the acceleration can be applied before the printer has to start deceleration for the next change in direction. So you can crank up speed and volumetric flow and even acceleration all you want, but on a tiny model itâs not going to make much difference.
Also like your car. The top speed you can reach in your driveway is a lot lower than the top speed you can reach on a 10 mile straight stretch of highway. Even if you stomp on the gas exactly the same. Even if you donât care about smashing in to your garage.
That being said, the printer has no idea how fast the filament can or cannot flow. So if you push the extruder to speeds faster than the filament will permit, youâll start to see defects in the print that look like under-extrusion. Which it actually is, since the printhead is moving faster than the extrusion rate can keep up with.
You mean textured PEI? Bambu makes a smooth PEI plate as well.
However, textured still works - just change the QR code sticker if the system is not liking it. The LIDAR will cope just fine. (Although that plus glitter filament might mess it up).
You will see the effect of high speed filament on benchy as the lower front of the hull being much shinier.
You might also see a horizontal band on the sides of the hull but thatâs the hull line, and not related to print speed.
Yah, everything is out of stock. I have the Engineering Plate. Are you talking about that one? It wonât take PLAâThrows another error. Iâm not experienced enough to start relabeling my plates. And I donât particularly like using the glue. I like the way PEI takes the heat and the parts practically jump off after it cools and no post-processing to deal with the glue.
Yes, but the names escape me at the moment. Thatâs where the testers found thereâs no appreciable difference between all the PLA variants. The âplusâ, â+â, âproâ and âfastâ are all nothing but a pitch to increase sales. And as noted above, they all do it. PLA is already the toughest and strongest filament. And when additives such as CF, fiber, wood, sparkle, etc. are added, it was found they all reduced the strength of PLA. Fall for the hype if it makes you feel better about your prints, but all youâre doing is paying more for your filaments. What does matter most with most all filaments is freshness and dryness.
How are you choosing which one to buy then? I guess just whatever is the absolute cheapest?