Being a Noob, I downloaded Orca and printed without any problem. Since this thread is about calibration, I looked at the calibration options and briefly looked at the documentation, and it left me with a couple of questions.
Each calibration tool allows for fine-tuning for a specific part of the filament performance. So the best thing is to figure out what you do and donāt like and attempt to master than one first.
If I may suggest these three videos which the YouTuber does a really good job in explaining what to calibrate and when.
Good intro 8:57
This is a two part series. Iād watch the first one then consider whether you need to go even deeper. The first is 11:28 and the second is 15:09 seconds.
YouTube trick.
Did you know that the human brain can hear up to 6x faster than the average human can speak? Well, with YouTubeās speed tool, you can speed up the video up to 2X without changing the pitch of the speakers. What that means is that a 10 minute video can be viewed in five minutes. I found that this works for most speakers unless they have a strong accent.
Thank you! I now have something to watch while my wife watches her singing shows. I put on my headphones and tune her out. Big thumbs up on the YouTube trick!
I watched all the videos, and I will be calibrating my filaments. One question remains: Do you need to re-calibrate every time you change the nozzle or just when they are replaced?
Thatās a good question. Recalibration isnāt usually necessary when changing nozzles, but it depends on the consistency of the nozzle dimensions and your prior settings. A well-machined nozzle swap shouldnāt require recalibration, though anomalies can occur if the new nozzle has slight manufacturing variances.
That said, filament quality plays a significant role in print consistency, and there have been ample reports on this forum that Bambu filament is particularly prone to issues like color shifts and other inconsistencies. Personally, I donāt recalibrate often, but I occasionally do to ensure my initial calibration settings are holding up. This is more a matter of preference than necessity.
As for filament, I use third-party options from Amazon almost exclusively, chosen for cost and proven reliability. Unlike Bambuās overpriced $20 spools with poor quality and no return policy, I can get $10 spools delivered next day and return them if they donāt meet my standards. Filament manufacturers, including Bambu, consistently fail to deliver consistent quality, but Amazon Prime makes it a no-risk scenario. Master your filament calibration, and youāll unlock a broader range of reliable vendors while ditching Bambuās outdated factory profiles.
Actually, believe it or not, there is a calibration menu in studio! I ran across it and assume itās a bug that bambu wants to keep hidden. It does require 2 monitors though (at least on windows). If you move the studio window from one monitor to another, it will eventually show up (at least it does on my setup). There is a possibility of requiring different zoom levels on each monitor in order for it to show. Iāve printed temperature towers with studio no problem.
BS has always had a calibration area. It allows you to manually launch 1. Flow Dynamics calibration (another name for pressure advance). Or 2. Flow rate calibration (To determine the multiplier for your particular filament)
On an X1 It can automatically read the results, Or you can choose to read and Input them manually.
The Limitation is, Those are the only two tests.
OrcaSlicer Has many more:
-Multiple varieties Pressure advance Calibration.
-Multiple types of flow rate calibrations (They should really call this the flow multiplier)
-Extrusion temperature Calibration.
-Maximum volumetric flow rate calibration. (This is not the same as the regular flow rate, This is the maximum amount of extruded filament your nozzle can push out without losing quality.).
-they even have a calibration routine for minimizing the fine artifacts. You can sometimes notice on flat walls.
You do have to read all of these manually and type in the numbers, but thatās very easy to do. And the cool thing is, this will also work on all the other bambu lab machines that donāt have the lidar.
Seems like they merged the code from OrcaSlicer, but didnāt enable the menu. Looks like a bug is tripped which gets it working. Do the commands actually work?
Some of the calibrations require you to turn off Pressure Advance - an option that is harder to make work with Bambuslicer.
My suggestion -if you want to use those options- do it in orcaslicer Until we know they are fully realized in Bambu studio. Thereās almost no learning curve to switching as they are essentially the same app. I wonder if they are planning on making those options in bambu studio official or if that was just a lazy programming error⦠Not removing code just hiding it?
Do they seem to work? Do they change your print settings automatically like they should? Is there a convenient way to disable pressure advance when you do any of the pressure advanced tests? If all of this is possible, awesome!!! It would open up lots more possibilities for people who are a little bit skittish about switching to Orca. I wonder if itās fully realized, though, since they did sort of a hack job of hiding it.
I have found at least three different places to download Orca Slicer.
Edited post to remove links.
Important Security Alertā:rotating_light:
Please be aware that āorcaslicer.netā or āorcaslicer.infoā are NOT an official website for OrcaSlicer and may be potentially malicious. This site appears to use AI-generated content, lacking genuine context, and seems to exist solely to profit from advertisements. Worse, it may redirect download links to harmful sources. For your safety, avoid downloading OrcaSlicer from this site as the links may be compromised.
The only official platforms for OrcaSlicer are our GitHub project page and the official Discord channel .
We deeply value our OrcaSlicer community and appreciate all the social groups that support us. However, it is crucial to address the risk posed by any group that falsely claims to be official or misleads its members. If you encounter such a group or are part of one, please assist by encouraging the group owner to add a clear disclaimer or by alerting its members.
Thank you for your vigilance and support in keeping our community safe!
Initially, I downloaded the correct version, but it was a little confusing without reading. I made the post above to warn users. I gues I violated a rule.