Hi all, I’m real close to buying the H2D as I have quite a bit of credit with Best Buy but wanted to make sure my expectations are accurate.
THe H2D can print just as fast as the X1C? Is there anything the H2D can’t do as well as the X1C?
Also, will the H2D be ok in an unconditioned space? I have the X1C also in my garage but it is in a small closet right up against the interior wall so gets ambient heat, The H2D will have to be out in the main garage so want to make sure that is ok.
A bit of context here, Bambu Lab is located at Shenzhen China, it’s essentially the Miami sort of weather so it’s very warm and quite hot during the summer. Not hard to understand why they implemented this but forgot that people who freeze outside in early winter exists
The H2D is essentially better in all apsects than the X1C, I can not think of anything the H2D does worse. And with future updates and firmware we will see that gap expand even further. All in all, if you have pull the trigger if you can. Its an amazing printer that is better in every single way!
My H2D is in the garage right now. Summer heat doesn’t seem to be a problem, but extremely cold in the winter likely would be a problem. As a point of reference, for the X1C, anything under 50F wasn’t good, and under 40F it would start to tear itself apart. Maybe the H2D’s heated chamber would allow it to compensate for cold?
What is this forced cooling you mention? I haven’t messed with any machine start gcode and have control over cooling.
chamber cooling. it’s summer in northern hemisphere right now thus it’s not a issue. wait until winter hits your half of earth 
Ohhh lol. Just enable advanced air filtration and you can set it to whatever you want in the filament profiles. 0% turns it off.
Here’s a quick tutorial to turn that off
This is not the best approach, the best approach is to modify the startup gcode, refer to my previous post:
Try this! which I think would make much more sense. Unfortunately Bambu is not giving us a easier option.
I’ve printed PLA with my X1C in a room colder than 50f.
Is this like a “if chamber temp hits xx, then set fan to xx” type deal? Does it keep the exhaust fan off initially so the chamber can warm up to the lowest set temp?
If it can adjust fan speed on chamber temp I’m all for it
The H2D prints better than the X1 but it is definitely slower. The acceleration by default is set to 8,000 and I’m not sure if it can go faster. I thought 8,000 was the h2d’s top acceleration speed on the specs but Hotandlonely seems to say different. All I know is that I have talked about my findings a lot and seen side by side screenshots and real world prints. Even in 2 color the X1/P series is faster with as many as 66 color swaps. That is how slow the H2D is. It’s only when you get to around 100 color swaps that the H2D starts to beat out the other printers. It has to do hundreds of swaps. You can literally look at the H2D and see it prints slow and careful which any other Bambu printer is hammering crazy fast.
If you want to see real number comparisons see the thread titled something like “Comparing H2D slower than A1” and there is also a thread titled X1 is faster but H2D prints better.
It prints beautifully but slowly.
IDK why these people are calling it slower. Its just different.
The start up song and dance on the H2D is a tad longer than the X1C if both have bed leveling disabled.
With a small part bed leveling the H2D is faster because it only levels the print area.
Big prints, more leveling area = H2D is slower startup (duh)
The H2D nozzles / extruder are FAR superior to the X1C. I get 20-40% more flow for the same nozzle size. This will far surpass any “perceived” acceleration differences with the default acceleration settings. (I’m calling BS on anyone that says they can tell 8k vs 10k accel on 99% of print times.)
Uhm, no, acceleration is the most important part about print speed. It’s probably more important than VFR. A higher acceleration means that even for short moves it’s still moving faster than before. Unless you’re printing very large but simple geometry (e.g., a 30x30x30 large cube), otherwise 99% of the time a machine with 20% higher acceleration but 20% lower max VFR would be faster. With 0.4mm nozzle it’s pretty hard to hit the VFR wall.
Play around with the Acceleration chart on this web page before you spout nonsense. RepRap Calculator - Original Prusa 3D Printers
8k vs 10k wall acceleration default is going to be imperceptible. we are not talking 1k vs 10 k vs 100k here.
exactly, so if you cant hit the max VFR why do you care about acceleration on walls? If you are flow limited you are velocity limited. Peak print speeds of 200mm/s or 300mm/s mean the time difference to reach those with 8k vs 10k is microscopic. Have you even tried comparing the slice times?
The default slicer settings are almost IDENTICAL
If you were printing at 10,000 mm/s you would have an argument. Without this mystical printer and plastic you have no argument to stand on.
edit: oh wait…H2D has 1000mm/s travel speeds. so it would be faster. thanks for attending this ted talk.
In my experience you might notice slightly longer print times on h2d in some scenarios but generally you shouldn’t if you utilize both nozzles, slicer suggests how to load filament to optimize waste/time.
In rare scenario where the print takes longer than X1C, I think it has more to do with how far it travels for filament changes. distance from object to purge as chute/wiper is different. Cutter stopper for one nozzle is closer to purge chute but further for the other.
Anyways, I never considered print time to be the determining factor when choosing the printer and it is secondary factor for me. I care only about print quality and usually slow things down a little to get better/ more consistent results/ avoid failed prints.
This is the way
I’ve never understood the businessbabies crowing about 6% time added while the quality and featureset objectively improves. If that is actually a problem (unconvincing), then just plug that data into your excel sheet and it’ll tell you what levers need to be adjusted for your business math.
//// Well, I guess with the H2D price tag, it might make the math uncomfortable to swallow, lol, Apple people are very familiar with this phenomena…
I’m not talking hypotheticals or saying “I think it is slower.” I’m speaking from my factual experience in many of the same prints done on both machines. I know it is slower especially w/PETG. I’ve actually compared screenshots side by side on color models and I’ve also printed those models on the H2D and P1S. I’ve posted results. The H2D is up to as much as an hour slower at times. Sometimes some prints it’s only 10m slower but sometimes it is much more.
Alright here is a real world example printed in Bambu PLA. I designed this helicopter. Here is a 4 color TMNT version.
4 color Cockpit body on P1S 12:39
4 color Cockpit body on H2D 13:21
1321 - 12:39 = 82 minutes (1h 22m more on the H2D)
It’s the same thing on 2 colors with 66 color swaps when printing the engine. The P1S is faster. It visibly prints faster. I tried changing the acceleration from 8000 to 10000 but that doesn’t do anything because it probably never gets a chance to hit those speeds.
Not for nothing but when you are paying big bux for a machine with 2 nozzles I thought it would print faster but it’s only when you get to hundreds of swaps that the h2d is faster. I have another cockpit body with gold lining the cockpit, 3 colors total, it has around 450 color swaps. In this case the P1S takes around 24h, the H2D takes 16h. Before the H2D I just painted the gold on.
The photo shows the TMNT Helicopter sliced and compared and printed on both machines.
I assume you’re using only the stock profiles and have made no attempt to improve on them?
I was once struck at how much faster my Flashforge 5M Pro was than my X1C at printing a particular object, when both were sliced in Orca slicer. It was something like 2 hours on the Flashforge 5M Pro, and about 3 and a half hours on the X1C. i.e. a sizable difference. So I went through and meticulously copied any flashforge 5m pro orca slicer print profile setting that seemed relevant over to the X1C slicer setting, and, lo, now my X1C gets the same speed. This was in 2025, so that means for years now a lot of my X1C’s speed potential was just never fully tapped. It’s ironic that I had to buy a different machine to get a better profile.
