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Hey all! Trying to print the dark horse ams drying system and I’ve tried with 2 different filaments (different brands too) and it fails around the same spot in the same way.
It kinda looks like when filament is too wet but since it failed around the same spot with two types it’s making me rethink that. What do you all think?
As far as slicer settings, I used the basic bambu studio “generic pla” settings. I did do the flow dynamic and flow rate calibrations after the green set messed up so bad (thinking it was a flow issue) but then tried again with the white and got the same issue.
With some of bambulabs filament I got similar results but with a different model (some multiboard pieces)
Here are a few good ways to check if the filament is wet:
Grab the roll of filament and hold a strand of it. press your thumb nail into the strand while pulling the filament toward your thumb. If the filament easily breaks then it could be wet.
Lower the Z-axis and move the toolhead to the center of the build plate. Once you’ve done this, extrude a couple inches of filament. Look closely. If you see little wisps of steam coming off the filament, or you hear snapping/crackling sounds, then it is most likely wet.
Do the same thing as in step two. Extrude some filament, but this time wait for it to cool off for a few seconds. After it’s cool, look closely at the strand of extruded filament, and run your nail over it. If it looks like there are random bubbles all over the filament and the filament feels rough, then the filament might be wet. (You can do steps two and three at the same time.)
Yeah, printing in groups can sometimes reveal wet filament more-so than printing something solo.
Based on the evidence and the fact that this is PLA, it seems unlikely that moisture is the primary issue.
That said, drying filament is still a good first diagnostic step. Weigh the spool before drying it and then weigh it again afterward. Otherwise, you are only guessing whether moisture was actually a factor. If there is no measurable weight loss and the print behavior does not change, then you have at least reduced the likelihood that moisture is the cause.
Note: for cardboard spools, this may not be an accurate diagnostic because the spool itself may contain moisture. But this is still valuable data nevertheless.
One suggestion that may help is to simplify the process and go back to basics.
Troubleshooting Rule #1: Change one and only one variable at a time
When multiple things are changed at once, it becomes very difficult to know which change actually caused the result. So if you suspect moisture, check that first, then move on to the next step.
A good starting point is to stop diagnosing through the model and instead run a simple first-layer test.
A first layer test does not need to cover the entire build plate. The goal is simply to verify that the filament is extruding properly. If you have not done that before, here is a simple way to check it:
Right-click on the build surface and select the cube primitive.
Select the scale option, uncheck uniform scale, and set X and Y to somewhere between 75 mm and 100 mm. The important setting is Z, which should be set to a single layer. That is typically 0.48 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle, but it will also depend on your global layer height setting and your nozzle width.
Slice the model and zoom in to confirm that it produces exactly one layer. If you see no layers, the Z height is too small. If you see more than one layer, the Z height is too large. Adjust the model Z value until the slice shows exactly one layer.
This is a simple test that minimizes filament use and runs quickly, so you can experiment with other calibration settings efficiently.
After performing that test, take two photographs and post them here:
A photo of the layer as it sits on the build plate immediately after printing. Put something in the image for scale, such as a coin.
Gently peel back the layer without tearing it. Waiting for the build plate to cool may help. Then hold the filament up against a light source, such as a window or lamp, and post a photo showing its transparency.
Both of these photos can reveal flow rate issues if they exist, and moisture-related voids may also become visible as blotchy inconsistencies.
This is not a replacement for full flow rate calibration. It is simply a faster preliminary check that takes very little time and material. Eventually, you will still want to calibrate the filament manually, but follow Rule #1 and isolate one variable at a time.
At work right now so can’t try this but will do when I get home!
I stopped a print last night after the first few layers and could definitely see through it. I’ll post a picture in just a second.
I did the flow rate and flow dynamic calibration with the same filament before, but maybe I didn’t apply the changes properly when I sliced it? Still getting the hang of Bambu studio. I see alot of people using Orca, do you think its a better option?
I started printing years ago with the original Ender 3 and Cura so still figuring out where all the options are and all the new things/settings for this latest generation of printers, I’ve been out of the game for too long and there are so many new things out now!
Is this just regarding when you have to dry the desiccant out after it’s been used? I just got this printer and only have PLA right now, although I did just get a roll of PETG delivered last night. I am mainly just trying to get it fixed for now, then I can always reprint it with a different material later
You can see in this picture that the first layer definitely doesn’t squish all the way and there are some gaps, I think this print was stopped on layer 4-5?
This says that the problem isn’t flow or filament wetness. The filament may be wet, but that doesn’t account for a repeatable issue where the printer appears to stop extruding properly after some amount of time.
Since the printer mechanics have no conception of time, the only explanation I can think of is that the problem is heat. The longer the printer runs, the hotter its various parts are getting, and the hotter things get the poorer the printer extrudes. Run a print with a single object on the build plate and it finishes quickly enough the problem doesn’t become severe. Run a print with a lot of objects and by the time it’s halfway through the print things have gotten hot enough for the issue to occur.
You haven’t said if your printer has an enclosure. If it does, try running the print with the door open and the lid off. If you’ve already tried this and it didn’t make a difference, I think you have an issue with the extruder stepper motor and/or drive circuit. But it might be mechanical. I’d take the extruder out and confirm the spring that pushes the drive wheels together hasn’t backed off, and that there is no plastic debris stuck to the drive mechanism.
Wet filament, by itself, doesn’t explain the symptoms you’ve described. Which is probably why it doesn’t matter which filament you use, it’s all failing the same way.
Also note, if PLA is really wet, it becomes brittle. If you can bend the filament and it doesn’t snap, it’s not super wet.
I agree. These photos are quite indicative of a flow rate issue that is more likely tied to the filament path binding or some kind of mechanical interference.
With this new evidence, I would check the following in order of easiest to more most work:
Verify that the PTFE tubes are not kinking or binding.
As a simple test, you could unspool a 0.5-1 meter length of filament, and disconnect the PTFE tube and then hand-feed the filament directly into the extruder while performing a small 75x75*0.28mm cube test. This should only take 3-5 minutes.
If an AMS is in use, eliminate that from the process temporarily and use the single external spool.
Tear down the extruder and verify that there is no mechanical damage to the gears or debris caught inside the mechanism.
Yes. Eventually, the desiccant will need to be dried or replaced. It is much easier to pop the entire container into the oven than to empty it, dry the desiccant, and refill the container.
The drying temperature and time will vary depending on the desiccant, but 80-100°C is a common recommendation. PLA will start to soften and deform around 55-60°C. ASA, ABS, and PA (nylon) will be good up to 90-100°C.
I dry my silica gel in nylon containers at 80-85°C. If I need more containers, I will probably use PC, with a glass transition temperature of about 145°C.
