I am sure that they will appear cheaper somewhere aftermarket, but will they be of the same quality also?
This is all about accuracy. And a big part of the price is due to that accuracy.
It is not a cheap component and if you don’t need accurate parts then you don’t need it.
This is for people that make accurate engineering parts that require high precision.
The printer is calibrated at the factory, but transport and even the surface you place the printer on might influence the positional accuracy.
I think you are really missing the point here. This is the same as using a caliper as a wrench.
Nevertheless you are free to have your own opinion on this topic.
Oh no, I get it. It is literally a printed design on a not-even build plate, a $20 part, and something that should have either been included or preferably not been needed at all. You do you, but it bothered me paying for a very expensive machine that will only give you its best performance with an additional overpriced “special” purchase. And, after seeing it’s poor performance over the last few nights, I’m pretty salty.
When I receive mine, I will make a picture of it, and share it here, so you can print it out on a 600pdi printer and glue it onto a build plate.
Then you have your personal 20$ version of the Vision Encoder.
If you are lucky, you can even still print on it.
From what I heard its not very noticeable on a “new” and calibrated machine. I assume the encoder will be more beneficial as the printer ages and get some wear and tear on it.
Thanks! Please make sure it’s high-res and I’ll print it on my Canon Pro-1 at 4400 X 2400 and try it out. I know you’re being facetious but I would still give it a try just for S&G’s. I didn’t think it was something I needed but since my Ender 3 is laying down better lines than my H2D right now, maybe I do!
Seriously though, there’s a good argument to be had that it either should have been provided or the printer should have been calibrated to this accuracy. Additional cost at this price point doesn’t make sense when the X1C is purported to achieve 50 microns on it’s own.
First of all, if a hi-res image would be required, it would be better to decode the bar codes on the plate and rebuild the image to scale in a graphical package. That would eliminate all deviations that might come from scanning the plate.
Also a slight change in humidity is enough to scale your paper by 0.1%, which is far beyond the accuracy that you need.
If you would be able to print on polyester drawing film, you might overcome the scaling by humidity.
Then the next issue you would face will be the accuracy of the printer itself.
Most laser printers have a resolution (not accuracy) of 600dpi or maybe even 1200dpi, and that isn’t enough to get an accurate dimension.
Last but not least I wouldn’t know if you would calibrate your printer with the end result, you would be able to fix your accuracy afterwards. Probably you could, but only with a $115 BBL Vision Encoder.
Also, the “consumer-minded” takes are quite funny. Sorry the optional calibration tool isn’t a build sheet? Oh, it doesn’t come with a spool of material or a can of coke… Terrible “deal”
Note: there is an ignore function, you can go into a members profile and ignore them forever. I recommend using it, when you find members here who are just detracting from sensible/professional discussion. Cheers!
That interesting. Yours is off by about 2x what mine is. A guy on another thread said he got his down to about 80um average with a max of around 150um (going from memory) by tuning his belts. I wonder if it even matters, or whether we can count on the vision encoder plate to act as a enough of an equalizer that the native differences no longer matter?
I have (pauses to count) 8 laser rugs 6 3d printers (and have given some away) and a few buts of much more expensive kit. Cnc, edge mill, and the entire works of a print shop doing clothing and trophies. Various reasons and no e if this is from business, well not directly. The units all in are north of 50k or so when new. I have easily 10k in support tools, all the stuff for tuning all of the above machines and the only reason u have kess invested there is i never buy house made tools. With bambu i looked at thw all in one unit and hard pass. Don’t need it and my luck with all in ones is more all in half assed is this thing from a cartoon territory
That said. I bought a mini. Locally got it overnight. Soent 1490 in that order. Oh stop looking weird. I actually got a good price on it though it was bot available with the ams lite. Like 390 ish was bambu labled, the reat was filaments kit to build a new enclosure. New workbench. Epoxy “flare safe” surfacing pair of new extinguishers … I am sure you now get thw bug picture. These are expensive toys you just paid probably well north of 2 grand. Please tell me at the very least you bought aome decent calipers and a set of alan wrenches that don’t suck
If you didn’t, you are going to regret that in the near future, if ya don’t already.
Ack. 8 printers just got an flsun 2 days before my best friend was taken to icu for what looks like the end if hus fight with cancer. I should probably look in that box to make sure it is in there.
But the tools, alignment teats for lasers are usually about 1500 bucks for a set. I use a kit a buddy put together for me. Oddly enough my alignment system is based on an old Sun systems mouse pad. In the blue pico range. Because ut us just a known refractance grid works with anything.
Take an old soldiers advice. At least ya gave my buddy a grin. He rasped out "idiots want to save a hundo? How many hours will it take to fix it without…
Please make sure it’s high-res and I’ll print it on my Canon Pro-1 at 4400 X 2400 and try it out. I know you’re being facetious but I would still give it a try just for S&G’s. I didn’t think it was something I needed but since my Ender 3 is laying down better lines than my H2D right now, maybe I do!
