My H2S has 1100 hours on it now and its had this problem from day one. My bambu lab A1 printing with the same filament will print a very smooth outer wall. but the H2S produces these lines on vertical surfaces. the issue is that surface is going to be a mating surface for a gasket so it needs to be smooth. Any ideas what could helpo me here? ive tried cleaning and greasing / oiling everything and there seemed to be little to no change. Printing with Esun PLA Basic Filament
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Z-banding. My h2d is pretty much the same. Been like that since new, not fixed nomatter what i do. Try tensioning belts, might help.. might not.
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could it just be the filament?
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Easy to find out. Calibrate flow or just decrease it by a wee bit.
That’s just warp. You are printing large and straight lines, you get warp. Regardless of how much brim you set, the warping force can still detach the corners just a little to ruin your extrusion.
Has nothing to do with z at all
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but then why does the bambu lab a1 without an enclosure using the same filament not do this?
time to print some 2 wall boxes and do some measurin’
Same here. My P1S, with the same settings and filament, produces flawless prints, but the H2S creates bulges on the outer wall at the points where the inner layers are.
I’d check the printing speeds and fan speeds, perhaps comparing to an A1 slice. Faster is great but it can cost in quality. From following other threads, the fan speeds seem like a common difference for folks coming from other printers. For a somewhat random example, on most default filament profiles the parts fan is set to come on/speed up 2s before it is needed for overhangs… on a fast print[er] that could be a whole layer’s worth of time (depending on proportionally how many overhangs there are on the layer). Or the aux fan… that seems to cause more issue than it is worth… I’m generally disabling that now.
Folks may be able to offer more specific advice if you could post your project file, or some example that exhibits the same issue.
Cheers,
-Max
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I have seen that problem in one of the machines and it was an easy fix. It may be the case or not but it’s a 2 minute job that saved me, and many others, with the A1 Mini and now the H2 (since they use the same nozzle system).
Check this link:
Scroll down until the part:
”**First-Layer Printing Issue Classification and Handling Guide”
**
Check the 2 solutions. See if it improves.
Drying the filament at 45c for 35 hours made the filament start to print clean. Filament in question is Esun white pla basic. the real issue wasnt the printer it is just junk soaked filament that even the bambu couldnt print clean with.