Filament is failing to load across multiple spool locations on the AMS unit. Thinks I have a stuck spool, but I do not. It’s also shredding my filament. I’ve been tinkering with this thing for a full day and have yet to complete a single print with it, while my prusa mk3s has been chugging away happily with my oldest crappiest wettest filament without issue.
Is this the bambu experience?
EDIT: I was having a bad day and shouldn’t have been messing with it. My bad.
If your goal was to get the Bambu Lab community to rush to your aid, opening with a sarcastic title and a Prusa flex is a genius move. Nothing summons help faster than telling a room full of Bambu owners their printer is worse than your old MK3S running soggy filament. 10/10 strategy.
That said — on the actual problem:
The filament false detection across multiple AMS slots points more toward a feeding/grip issue than a single bad slot.
Filament moisture (hydrolysis): If that “oldest crappiest wettest filament” is PLA that’s been sitting out, it may have absorbed enough moisture to become brittle. Wet/brittle PLA snaps and crumbles in the AMS feed path far more readily than in a direct Bowdenless/short-path setup like the MK3S. The Prusa tolerates it because it’s just dragging it straight in; the AMS has more bends, gears, and grip points where brittle filament shreds. Try a dried spool (45–50°C for a few hours) and see if the shredding stops.
Filament tip / cut quality: A bent or blobby tip catches in the AMS PTFE path and gets ground by the feed gears.
AMS feeding gear / hub: Check for ground filament dust in the gears and the AMS hub — debris there causes both shredding and false stuck spool errors.
Spool fit: Oversized or warped third-party spools bind in the AMS and read as stuck
The fact that the MK3S treatment of the worst filaments does not exclude moisture, as AMS is more vulnerable to brittle substances than just direct feeding. (e.g. PETG-CF, PPS-CF, all CF filaments, etc.)
It depends on what you’re looking for or expecting, right? If this is supposed to be a rant, go ahead - sure, no one’s stopping you - but it won’t help you.
On the other hand, what you can get here is help from a lot of users. To do that, though, you’ll need to post some more information about what you’ve already tried and describe the problem in more detail.
First, let’s cover the basics: Does your printer work without AMS? Can you narrow the problem down to the AMS?
What kind of spools do you use? Are they original Bambu spools or something else? Why this matters: Some third-party spools require an Adapter Ring:
“We highly recommend using filament with plastic spools that fit correctly inside the AMS. (Please refer to Swapping the new filament with Bambu Reusable Spool) If you prefer to use cardboard spools, we strongly advise using a Spool Adapter/Spool Adapter Ring to reduce the risk of slippage and debris getting left behind in the AMS”
What material are we talking about anyway, PLA? Or another filament? Please provide more information - but only if you want help, of course.
However, just a wild guess - a gut feeling: Your filament has simply become much too moist and brittle for the AMS.
If this is just a rant, that’s fine too, but please label it as such if necessary.
I’ll get back to you with more details, but you’ll have to excuse me for being a bit pissed off that the ‘user friendly’ new tech is performing a lot worse than my old outdated dumb printer that should by all rights be the one that requires more effort.
You’re comparing an old diesel car, which can actually be filled up with old frying oil, to a modern car that requires high-quality gasoline. You don’t go complaining to your car dealer when you put the wrong fuel in your car, do you?
You just unpacked it. Get familiar with it, read the manual, relax.
Personally id start by removing the AMS PTFE tube from the filament buffer ,cut off any old chewed filament and load fresh filament into the AMS . Now on your X2D, tap one of the spools and tap re-read. This should get the spool rotating to read the RFID chip on the spool enough to feed some filament out of the AMS .
If the filament spools out with no issue then in theory your AMS feed side should be o.k.as long as its not labouring or stalling. Then you can go on to connect back to the filament buffer but disconnect the other side of the buffer , do a re-load filament test and see if you get as far as out of the filament buffer , then connect the buffer back to the extruder PTFE tube but disconnect the tube from the extruder the other end and do another reload. Basically try and find the point of resistance .
As others have mentioned make sure your spools are not getting stuck and are of the correct diameter and width for AMS. Also all the PTFE tubes are cut square with no burrs.
I don’t have the X2D, but I do own the X1C, A1, H2C, H2D, Mini, and also a Snapmaker U1.
Overall, my experience with the Bambu printers has been excellent. I came from a Prusa MK3, where things like manual first-layer calibration were just part of the process. Switching to the X1C was a huge step forward—it outperformed the MK3 not just in first-layer consistency, but also in overall speed and ease of use.
In comparison, the Snapmaker feels less precise. For example, when I print a threaded bolt and screw cap, all of my Bambu printers produce parts that fit and thread together perfectly right off the printer. With the Snapmaker, the same parts don’t fit nearly as well.
I’m sure I could improve the Snapmaker’s results with more tuning, but the key difference is that I don’t have to do that with the Bambu printers—they just work.
Presumably this is an AMS2? I have 2 of them and yes, they can shred filament due to the power they come with.
They can also a be a bit sensitive to spool insertion, causing the spools to lock up. I usually try to remember to give them a little gentle spinning on the rollers before inserting the filament. It usually prevents locking due to misalignment and fast feed.
Furthermore, there are “Friday afternoon” AMS2’s around. One of mine certainly is (PTFE’s not initially sitting properly, protective lining of the clear top not removed on the inside, partially folded, no show stoppers though).
Finally, the PTFE path to the printer may also be a factor. Observe how far the filament feeds. That should help in pinpointing the issue. If it feeds through the AMS but stops say at the buffer or the print head, check that PTFE end for a clean and straight cut.
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PS: Addendum: I assume you are not using refills. Those have another common failure case: If the filament wasn’t massaged to fill the gap to the spool, they are very, very likely to jam.
Well as a total newbie and pretty much a complete idiot about 3D Printing (see my previous questions, that will tell you all you need to know, LOL) I have had an AWESOME experience. Now I’m by no means downplaying the OP issues, as I’ve been there with other things and it sucks.
That being said I’m just a few days into my 3D journey and could not have been more happy with how it’s gone and how easy it was for me to get up and running. I’m super impressed with Bambu, Bambu academy, these forums with wonderful people taking time out of their day to answer my dumb questions and give me advice, and obviously my new X2D. Some would say I’m in over my head, and I would not argue, but I purchased this to grow into and instead of feeling like I need to upgrade my printer in 6 months. I’m still on single colors, have not even used my 2nd nozzle yet, but trying things out with PLA and PETG on my AMS 2 Pro to take baby steps if you will. I even did my first 10 hour print overnight, and was so happy to wake up to a completed print that turned out great. I guess my point is I have no regrets, as an absolute total rookie I’m very impressed.
Some others here already offered some useful advice. I’m just going to acknowledge that your experience sounds really disappointing and I don’t blame you for some frustration. Whatever the cause I hope it is quick to resolve. Good luck.
You might have been right, but I’d prefer to call it an ID10T error. I will report back after I try a few things out but I think we might be OK largely.
Have had some bed adhesion issues, mainly with petg but a little with pla, but to be fair its a textured bed with no 3dlac on it. I’ve got the engineering sheet coming as I prefer smooth and want to print a little PA-CF. Did raise the bed temp by 10 for the petg and installed some fan deflectors for the side fan vents. I then printed a test which I’ve always used on my prusas and had only the tiniest of lift on one of the 4 sides. That’s pretty good. Give me the engineering sheet and a spritz of 3dlack and it’s going to stick like tree sap.
In my case, the official Bambu Lab sales site on Taobao is the cheapest. However, signing up for Taobao is essential to view the site, and in some cases, an overseas forwarding service may be required. Additionally, extra international shipping fees and customs duties may apply. (Since Taobao is for sales in China, items are shipped from there.) It is recommended that you calculate the shipping costs and tax rates for your area.