Issues with top layer - only one side of the print

Had my P1S with AMS for just over a month now and its been pretty flawless. Until a few days ago.
Now getting major issues with the top layer (mixed with a little warping and bed adhesion issues)
Im using bambu basic PLA (same as I always have) not change ANY settings (been using it that way since day 1 and it was great - now not so much). Have tried cleaning the bed first with soapy water, then soapy water + 99.9% ISO alcohol and finally 0000 gauge steel wool, soapy water than alcohol.

Top layer just looks terrible - but only down the left hand side near the light.
Also tried adding a brim in case the warping was having an effect - brim cured warping but not top layer issues.,

not sure what else I can try. Have calibrated several times to no avail.

Any advice gratefully received.

Check that your bed is flat and not warp bad if ok check the bed trimming next

Bed Tramming Procedure

If you also have not done the carbon rod cleaning yet do that also just like the video moving the print head around when cleaning the ipa will reach the bearings in the tool head by moving it side to side and also keep wiping until no more black residue.

How to clean the carbon rods for Bambu Lab Printers

Then let’s see what happens :v:

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What’s the “Engineering Plate”. Only plate I have is the one it was shipped with - the Textured PEI plate.

The smooth bed plate they want you to use that one to make it easier for leveling the bed plate you can do it with the texture bed plate it’s just harder to get perfect.

One side: Bambu Cool Plate = Cool plate sheet + Bambu Engineering Plate The other side: Bambu Engineering Plate

This presents a problem then - since it only came with the textured one :frowning:
I mean I have levelled a bed before several times (I have 2 creality machines) but they had a flat plate too so…

I think you will be fine and you have done it before on other printers so you know what to look for and you will know if it’s way out of specs.

First effort game me “spaghetti benchy”… adjusted again … and got a real benchy.
Trying the panel again (have also disabled ironing - forgot to mention that was on with previous versions - though dunno if that would matter).

Watch this space !

Hmmm - just tried the problematic panel again - got spaghetti


Yes leave iron off for now.

Is your bed 100% flat ? and not warped like this sample photo on the right side ?


Can you just print a basic primitive cube in the center of the built plate ok ?

I know you printed a 3Dbenchy and it worked one time. I’m just trying to see if you are having nozzle clog problems or intermittently extruder problems.

Nozzle cold pull link if you need it

Can you print this bed test out and see how it looks and post a photo.

Bed Level Test Pattern

Post your settings if you have changed anything in the slicer or g-code but you did say everything was at factory settings ?

Is your nozzle okay?

I recently had some frustrations with ironing being completely unreliable on only one of my P1S printers. Upon inspection of the nozzle it was considerably worn down.

settings are unchanged from stock (other than adding a brim).
Since doing the first steps mentioned (tramming and cleaning the rods) ive managed to print a good benchy
Small spirit level on the bed says the bed is level.
Not sure it can be a nozzle clog because the right side of the print is spot on - would expect a clog to affect the whole top layer and not always just the left side of print.
tried printing again and pretty much same result

printing the test pattern as we speak - I have an inking its going to look fine - the first layers seem to look ok.

Looks pretty decent to me

The first layer looks good in the photo :+1:

If the pla is warping up, do you have the aux fan on your printer? If so, turn it off.

Change the textured bed plate to 60c on both layers.

Can you print a normal part with the red pla ok ?

Is this gloss or matte black pla ?

If its gloss black pla bump the nozzle temp try 230 c it looks flat in color in the last photo.

Also you might already know but don’t use grid infill being it can clog up the nozzle on the infill layers use any other none overlap pattern like rectilinear ect.

Keep me updated

thanks for the feedback…

not 100% if its meant to be gloss or matt - just PLA Basic in black

Seen a few posts about infill - but I was trying not to touch the settings - they were “just working”.
Will try changing that though. (I already upped the bed to 58 to help with adhesion).
believe there is a fan in there - again not touched any settings - I figured the stock settings for Bambu PLA would be setup to “just work”. certainly was working fine before.
I did try a calibration cube (in white - just because thats what it defaulted too) and it look OK - not flawless but not as messed up as the panel thing.

Printed it again in black and it too came out fine - probably better than the white.
ive made a quick test model in builder with is a cube with another smaller cube on top and have set the bottom to black and the top to red - so kinda like part of the original model I was trying to print… its printing as we speak.
If that pans out ok I might try printing the panel rotated 90 degrees and on the rhs of the bed - see what that does… failing area rotates it would sugesst theres something about the model.

The Basic Bambu lab Black PLA should be glossy in color and shiney black on the roll.

I can tell you if that is bambu lab basic white pla and not the support W filament they give you on some printers your calibrations are off.

The slicer profiles are just basic settings you will find they will need custom settings and filament calibrations.

The side aux fan can warp big pla parts so you will be adjusting it as needed.

If you want to get off to a good start download Ocra Slicer and use some of the calibration tools in it or even use the slicer it is way better than studio.

OrcaSlicer V1.9.0 Official Release

This will help you out and the slicers even have more calibration tools now.
PSA: START HERE! Calibration made SIMPLE

For very high speed printing the temp tower is not your friend you will have to adjust nozzle temps on infill speed and filament shade.

Seems to be behaving itself now. Top isnt flawless but I guess given the size its not gonna be even with ironing.

Tried downloading orca slicer - but it appears to be exactly the same as the Bambu one. No extra calibration options I can see - the same 2 I have in bambu.

Looking better but still room for improvements

Did you up the nozzle temp ? It still looks flat black in the photo.

One setting you can change is set the top surface speed to 100 mm/s max

Set the top surface line width to 0.35

The other Calibration tools are on the top toolbar only


Will try increasing the temp a little - I did increase the bed temp which seems to have helped with adhesion. Also did the 2 calibrations in the screeny above. Will try the others (that I didn’t even spot :slight_smile:


I run some pla pro filaments @ 240c on big parts @ high speed.

Yes, texture bed plate better @ 60c with pla.