Hi, What all is included in a lead screw kit? I contacted support and was told the amount of slop I have is acceptable but if I wanted a “lead screw kit” it would cost me 60 bucks. I am hoping they dont say 60 bucks per lead screw! Thanks
the leadscrew kit is all 3 leadscrews, the nuts and the pulleys on the ends of the leadscrews. Its literally everything but the spring and tensioner for the belt and the belt its self. At $60 thats a steal! But I guess thats why they keep failing.
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I’ll probably order the kit to have. Plus it would be nice to have a lead screw for sizing a printed nut/bearing.
I may but a roll of filament from Igus, 75 bucks, but I could print load of them with one spool.
There are already models of the nut on makerworld, including by “Experimental” two piece nut.
hi i got same sound on brand new machine. sound came on Z hops and bed calibration.
does changing Z screw from support fixed your issue?
Well my issue wasn’t noise. My issue was a loose bed and yes, new lead screws fixed it.
I had two nuts fail at 2 months old. I am a hobbyist and so this is not a production system. I was sent a Z-Axis repair kit as others have described. Three lead screws with nuts. I replaced them, ran calibration and all was fine. Now 9 months later have front right nut stripped again. Opened ticket Bambu yesterday.
On the first failure, during the repair, I felt that there was some tension on the three lead screws. By that I mean I felt that there was undue pressure on the lead screw nuts due to misalignment.
IE. Imagine that you have properly installed the three lead screw assemblies properly and are installing the three screws on each of the LS nuts. The idea is to make the bed level. But if you have one LS nut lower or higher than the other two there would be a tension on the all the lead screws (and so the nuts also) this would cause excessive wear. I am only guessing here but I believe the H2D was assembled incorrectly with excessive pressure on the LS nuts. It is possible that it was damaged by rough handling during shipment. When I was repairing the first failure, I replaced only the one front left LS assembly and nut at first. While setting the bed to level I notice that to do this I had to push up more than I was happy with to get it level. To take this pressure off I had to move the front right LS nut 120 degrees (just rotated to the next screw hole alignment). After doing that the bed would level out and there was not excessive pressure. I hope my explanation is clear enough here.
I would be interested in any other info or thoughts on the cause of these failures.
You can try my quick fix, you don’t even have to remove the nut so you can screw it back in if you want to revert. One user has 1,000hrs with the plastic nut without wear yet.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2-series-leadscrew-nut-quick-fix-repair-kit-available
That is just amazing!
What good is brass then?
Thanks Philch for the link and info. I printed a two part replacement nut from makerworld using ASA. Wondering how long it will last.
Thanks again
Yes it is, great that a heavy printer tried it, I’m only 150hrs from replacing my rear nut on my H2C with an ASA split nut, no wear yet for now.
btw, I noticed that when pushing the bed up to measure the wear, it’s not really (or at least not only) wear that we measure but pushing on one single corner can tilt the leadscrew at the top where it’s free to move and what is felt as wear even on a brand new nut is really the bed moving up because of the leadscrew tilting. Measurement should really be done either at the very bottom (which can’t really be done with a gauge on the toolhead 
) or do it while holding the top of the leadscrew. Best would be a gauge attachement on the leadscrew itself to really measure the movement of the nut compared to a fixed point on the leadscrew.
That’s what happened when I thought my i190 nuts were no good, I since printed them in i150 (which is harder) for the 2 front nuts, no lube and for now (about 20 hours) they are great and I think they will hold well. So nice to not perform any maintenance on the leadscrews and not stain your hands whenever you touch them 
I still have my lubed ASA nut on the rear but plan to switch to i150 after several hundreds hours just to verify ASA can also be a long term solution
Edit: that’s also why some of us including me thought that incredibly the brass nut could have worn the steel leadscrew at the top. It is simply because the closer you are from the top the more the leadscrew can tilt and the more bed displacement is measured
Great! I will be nice to have several different feedbacks on how these can be a long term (and easy) solution.
Replacing the original leadscrews and nuts is a PITA, I too received a kit from bambu but really did not want to use it unless there was really no alternate solution I could find. @MiamiJerry has also come up with a solution and his should work long term for sure but I wanted the simplest solution possible and mine still needs to have more than one user experience and some good printing hours to fully validate. But as I wrote earlier, if it was to lasts only several hundred hours, it would still be OK for most of us given it’s less than 10 minutes to replace with a new printed nut.