Just purchased the X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer, software

Start with the free personal use edition and keep it until you hit the 1000$ mark that is still covered in the free license. That gives you ample time to learn while still having (almost) all the features of Fusion 360 at your hands.

@Thrawn Cheers again fella!

I was just looking for the PLA Toughed versions really. What is the equivalent in none Bambu naming pleasE?

Tough PLA, PLA+, Polymaker names it PolyMax PLA. I am sure there are other brand names around, but PLA+ or Tough PLA are the most common descriptions.

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I was looking at this: eSUN PLA+ Filament 1.75mm, Enhanced Toughness 3D Printer Filament PLA Plus

That should be the similar to Bambu Tough PLA

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I use all of them, Cold / Engineering / High Temperature. Also got the textured plate (awesome for just-print-it doesn’t-have-to-be-pretty stuff). And I got the Wham Bam PEX plate.

Glue stick for the smooth Bambu Lab plates, no glue stick on the textured, no glue stick on the PEX plate except for PETG. And after I scuffed the PEX plate with some 0000 steel wool and alcohol, I have zero issues with first layer adhesion. Also, I ran a garden tool sharpener (basically a piece of rough steel) along the sharp edges of the PEX plate to keep it from tearing up the heated bed and my fingers.

Don’t run any -CF filaments through your AMS. No TPU or similar either. It might work, but probably won’t. Like Thrawn said, play with Fusion 360 and see if you even want to use it. Maybe Tinkercad (free) or FreeCAD will be enough. Or maybe you simply won’t find it worth the hassle. Just don’t buy it first and feel compelled to use it since you spent money on it. This is supposed to be fun. Browse Thingiverse and Printables first. I find a lot of stuff that I’m interested in has already been designed and tested by others.

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Don’t forget Thangs, which searches all of them at once.

I used to have problems with -CF filaments which jammed my AMS. The solution is very easy: You need to dry them fro 10 - 12 hours. I have a dish warmer in my kitchen (Wärmeschublade in German) in which I can easily dry and setup the temp between 40 to 85 degrees celsius. Once you dry the -CF filaments, you can easily use them in the AMS. But be careful: Not all -CF filaments are supported by the AMS. Check the bambulab filaments description before you use them after drying.

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Wouldn’t say just purchased! Because I’ve owned this long enough to call the software an unmitigated piece of garbage! it’s constantly CHANGING setting from projects to previous projects either defaulting or NOT defaulting so you can’t be certain what its actually printing until after it’s started to waste materials AND this Printer is a master at Crapping out as well as wasting filament. NOT one of my previous Printers had a failure rate even HALF of this printers and that was when I was a total noob at printing. You want to print everything they have in the ‘We added these files with’ sure it prints them because they debugged every aspect of them, The volume of bed failures = ‘rafts’ = trashed bottom surfaces so artistic prints be damned unless they have some base to hide the mess. printing below 0.2 is a wasted of time unless you are doing single flat walled surfaces. Having tested the same print (Trophy cup) with a metalic filament to show up all the imperfections below 0.2 the machines variable speeds through overhangs changes the texture of the filament making metalic as well as normal filaments change gloss. You may think “So what?” if you make parts for a customer and it varies in luster at all the changes of angles or if you do lots of curved surfaces such as a vase luster changes in items not meant to be painted is a problem. Now before someone says I’ve printed curves meaning horizontal curves while this affects Vertical curves/overhangs where the machine varies speeds changing the flow and temperature of the extrusion. Oh did I mention the Software likes to Default back to settings? What’s worse the insistence that the software be online creates the majority of its problems. import a previous project you WILL have to review 100% of the settings because otherwise it will default to the last project AND some default setting completely ignoring the projects Original settings. You see where this is going for all the time you might Gain from a faster print head you lose to the software. The current failure rate of prints is OVER 50% there is no consistency it prints one plate perfectly and buggers the next plate of the exact same items (properly cleaned and re-glued plate between) Funny error the Machine trashed Bamboo’s own logo by including several layers of the buckets base color through it! Would I recommend this printer to Others? If you’re not printing large print bed surfaced can be rough finished pieces then NO this machine was hyped up by people who got free machines out of the deal. They obviously couched their words carefully to help sell them.
Edit: What I didn’t mention was the lack of Customer service The AMS sounded like it was one of those rock tumblers for smoothing glass the machine itself sounds like a step down from an electrical room is running in the background at Idle Seriously there are some fundamental issues with the machine itself have they addressed them? Nope they want a Video of the Gears (Wasn’t the issue being discussed) We’re talking an AUDIO issue they want a mechanical video. Having received a previous printer with a seized barring in the extruder When things sound loose or knocking around it needs addressing Bamboo just wasted the Time limit on their replacement policy delaying replies so Expect Support to do little for you!

So you don’t like your X1C? Have you used PrusaSlicer before?

He just came here to rant in his very first post. Best to not feed the troll.

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Cheers for that info. Im not sure if it’s the same in the UK/EU as the free one for 3 years (below £1k income) doesn’t have all the features the subscription one has.

I have lots of things I want to print, not just random stuff but things which do with one of my companies. I own a Home automation company, not Home Assistant etc but commercial ones (Elan & Control4) (along with others) and would like to be able to sell different mounts etc. I dont do the installing anymore, I have staff who do that but being able to offer different colours that are not available etc is something we get asked alot.

The X1C was Grossly misrepresented by the Youtube Community. As I’ve stated the Printer Can’t complete 50% of the prints it’s being fed to do. That includes Numerous prints those very Youtubers printed on the X1C’s they received. Not 3 hrs ago it failed Another plate of prints the same exact print it managed three times and failed 2 that’s a 50/50 failure rate oh and they didn’t fail right away they went on to use more than half the material of the prints before failing. The Support is Garbage Excusing it to Fast growth is fanboying for BL. Am I impressed by the X1C? No! I’ve been printing for years now, I’ve printed thousands of Items. I’m not walking into this Blind and new to Printing. You want to use these to make generic parts because its fast yeah it’ll likely work for you. The printer pauses for Spaghetti when there isn’t any and doesn’t see actual failures so what’s the point of the supposed function? From the noises the AMS and now the printer make there may well be a serious problem with them yet the support at BL is a joke so no way to even know if these are just annoying normal sounds or those of a dysfunctional machine! The problems with how the printer does Overhangs changing the materials luster means you’d be better off just printing in One color and Painting the piece than wasting the money on the AMS if you plan to do Artists pieces. Seriously there are Numerous issues with the X1C’s and BL which make these machines Very questionable purchases and the Printing Community has Dropped the ball on this one just because they can be called fast (If you don’t use multi colors because if you do Toss out the Fast part)

Right, but the whole point of the personal/hobby license is so that you can learn the program and work your way up to the paid version. It’s pretty advanced software that you won’t learn overnight. They are hoping to turn you into a paid customer my giving you a slimmed down version and giving you plenty of time to figure it out before you pay $550/year, every year, per seat, until you stop using it. Some of the add ons cost significantly more than that.

The personal version is still very robust. I also own a business and we pay for a license for my industrial designer. Since I have no formal training in CAD, I don’t pay for a license for myself. It’s more of hobby, just trying to learn. But with my personal license I can login to our shared Fusion Team account to view and export all our design files on my laptop or iPad.

So don’t let the “personal” in the license fool you. It’s more of a starter account that allows you to get your feet wet for free while you decide if Fusion is right for you. For them, it’s a way to get you used to working in their ecosystem and hopefully get you hooked on software that could cost you thousands of dollars a year in subscriptions in the near future.


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@dragoneyes001

That’s too bad you are having a terrible experience with your printer

Perhaps there’s something you’re overlooking regarding your constant failed prints

Are the internal memory prints working ?

That’s a good start

I understand your frustration but can tell you 100% that when you get it sorted and printing the way you want it will change your perspective to a more positive light

As for the Youtube misrepresentation you speak of, in my case I totally agree because they left out the part where it’s nice to actually receive something that lives up to the hype

There is not a printer on the market that doesn’t have hiccups, maybe you’ve got a Prusa MK3 and it prints perfectly 99% of the time
I promise you there’s another person with the same printer having nothing but issues

If you buy a brand new car and a week later the transmission blows up, you exchange it fir a new one rather than make it worse

Same feeling of inconvenience and frustration with what you’re experiencing but perhaps your approach is wrong ?

I don’t really trust anyones eyes and tools except my own and every week things are built on a Friday so before I even plugged it in my eyes and tools were all over it just double chrcking everything was properly adjusted and all the screws I could see were tight

Belts, PTFE tube, lead screws, part cooling fan wiring and interface board, everything that I could easily get to

Other than all of the trash talking in your replies what I gather the root of your issue is bad layers that progressively get worse as the layers build up on the print and no spaghetti detection?

Start a fresh thread with your issues and I’m sure collectively we can all sort it out together in some way that benefits you more than the people that might try to help you

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The No.1 problem with the Printer is the software. the constant reverting to settings from other projects or Defaults when importing already previously printed projects is beyond annoying. The split AMS Prepare/Device not being connected so the project updates the device leaves the possibility that the wrong material settings are being used WHICH ONE is the machine actually using? Not being able to open numerous slicer profiles at once and setting each to the appropriate settings for the respective prints creates a mess because importing a preset project gets settings fopped to it from the just printed project. Seriously who thought any of that was a good idea?

Seriously, instead of hijacking this thread start your own thread and topic so all of your issues can be addressed

At a quick glance there are several possible solutions but once again start a fresh discussion so more people can chime in and offer advice

Being a spaz just makes things worse, I should know because I’m a recovering Spazaholic myself

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Champion! Very well explained! Thank you again!

I have been looking at a few things that I found on Thinkverse: Grow Tent Fan Bracket - Invertable Fan by BudDoc - Thingiverse

Can that be printed with the default settings if you have time to take a look? I will design my own when I get good enough but instead of wasting material (PLA Basic). Also are the fan settings in the template (25mm version set up of do I need to set myself? Been looking for fan settings online or if there is a auto mode ir similar?

Cheers,

That looks to be an easy print for an X1C. As for the “Default Settings” - they are generally very good out of the box, but in the real world every printer is slightly different despite BL’s generally good QC. Tiny changes add up.

As a result, it’s generally suggested you run some Calibrations on your machine, particularly tuning the Filament Profiles.

Bambu Studio is the Slicer / Machine Control program (a Slicer takes models like you posted and slices it into layers for printing). Many of us use OrcaSlicer instead. It’s virtually the same app, but has some extra settings and a bunch of one or two click calibration tests that let you get spot on prints.

You save the settings it finds and in the future when you use that filament you choose your save profile and you know it will be right.

Fan settings - These are usually pretty dialed in. That said doing a large blocky solid engineering piece may need different settings than a delicate castle with lots of tiny details.

The Slicer generally handles the fans fine but you must understand 3D printing is not like buying an Inkjet printer, you don’t just plug it in and go.

I think you realize that from the number of Q’s you have! :wink: :grin: Good on you! Learning is very much part of the game.

If you’re up for a bit of a read, I wrote a long a$$ed post (I’m a wordy sorta guy) about Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer for people just starting out.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-up-your-game-studio-softfever-orcaslicer-arachne

Cheers!

Thank your so much @ThanksForAsking! pretty much a perfect answer. Nice and clean and concise which I think is missing a little in Banbulabs wiki. I have downloaded OrcaSlicer and am going to use that.

That looks to be an easy print for an X1C. As for the “Default Settings” - they are generally very good out of the box, but in the real world every printer is slightly different despite BL’s generally good QC. Tiny changes add up.

As a result, it’s generally suggested you run some Calibrations on your machine, particularly tuning the Filament Profiles.

Bambu Studio is the Slicer / Machine Control program (a Slicer takes models like you posted and slices it into layers for printing). Many of us use OrcaSlicer instead. It’s virtually the same app, but has some extra settings and a bunch of one or two click calibration tests that let you get spot on prints.

You save the settings it finds and in the future when you use that filament you choose your save profile and you know it will be right.

Fan settings - These are usually pretty dialed in. That said doing a large blocky solid engineering piece may need different settings than a delicate castle with lots of tiny details.

The Slicer generally handles the fans fine but you must understand 3D printing is not like buying an Inkjet printer, you don’t just plug it in and go.

I think you realize that from the number of Q’s you have! :wink: :grin: Good on you! Learning is very much part of the game.

If you’re up for a bit of a read, I wrote a long a$$ed post (I’m a wordy sorta guy) about Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer for people just starting out.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-up-your-game-studio-softfever-orcaslicer-arachne

Cheers!
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find it covers ever

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