has anyone realized that kit card work a lot better I’ve been having problems with things that are not kit card i’m using a flashforge ad5m
Can you provide far more context as the question (assuming there is one) is lost.
You appear to be able to print kit cards without problems, but you are having problems printing anything else.
- What problems are you seeing?
- Provide photos showing the issues.
- Describe what you experience and what you expected.
- Provide links to the models you are struggling with.
- The “flashforge ad5m” is not a Bambu Lab printer (the purpose of the forum), but I and others with try to explain things if you provide the information above.
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example i print the dummy 13 v1.0 kit card then i print a non kit card version and all the parts go to spaghetti same with a lot of other models i don’t mean random models i mean models with more than 5-10 different items on it!! sorry i did not say the topic properly.
Did you have supports on this? I know the dummy models are very… tricky to print. Spaghetti usually comes from prints that are not supported properly. If you can include and image, we will get right to work to solve your problem.
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Have you cleaned your build plate recently?
Doing so is routine maintenance and should be considered before other factors.
Warm water with basic (no additives) dish soap (not hand soap), something like Dawn or Fairy.
A decent rinse, dry with a suitable cloth.
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ok ! will will try doing that
two specific models dummy 13 baby and dummy 13 drone they have messed up three times in a row i tried cleaning the plate i used adhesive!
Have you tried super glue? 
(Don’t actually try that, I’m just making a bad joke, don’t mind me)
I imagine the kit cards are easier to print because as a whole it provides a solid base across the model.
Having a good clean plate is certainly a must when it comes to smaller finicky details, but I think the plate type can also play it’s part. I don’t like using textured PEI plates for such things because I find models with a smaller foot print don’t always grip on as well.
I have a lot of success with the supertack plate, but I know some have had troubles. More recently, I mostly use smooth PEI with this 3d nano glue stuff ( Amazon.com: Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive (50ml) - Ultimate 3D Printing Bed & Build Plate Adhesion - No Mess, Non-Toxic, Works for PLA, ABS, PEI, PEEK, Nylon, PC and More. Easy Application, Easy to Clean! : Industrial & Scientific )
Beyond the plate though, I think the filament choice could be having an affect too, as well as it’s condition (how soggy/old it is). Or the environment for that matter. A cold woosh of air could wreck havoc!
One thing you can try if things are being stubborn is using a brim.
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It has been a while but I did struggle with some of the models. In the end, and iirc, I used a clean smooth PEI with a thin film of glue stick, brims and lowered some of troublesome parts 0.01mm lower than the lay flat option does. I probably also used Arachne. I did both PLA and PETG Dummy 13 variants.
On some variants, problems came later due to tricky supports. But I gather that is not your current problem?
& 
a lot of prints with small parts mess up not just small and a kit card just makes it easyer
Can we see photos of one (or ideally more) failures while they remain on the build plate at the point of failure?
Well, the basic pre-requisite is a clean build plate as mentioned by @MalcTheOracle above. A textured plate in particular needs the occasional, very deep and even repeated (!) vigorous scrub with a clean, stiff brush.
Similarly, even for first layer issues, it is best to use self-dried filament before going down the various follow-up rabbit holes.
Most people here will be familiar with Bambu Studio and/or Orca to better diagnose and counteract issues. What slicer are you using for the Flashforge?
Edit: FYI, the reason why kit cards with the sprue (the card or frame) are printing better for you than non sprue parts is because there are long continuous walls holding all those little pieces down. Take the sprue away and now those little pieces are on their own.
I design miniature kit cards so I have some experience with printing small footprint parts with and without sprues. I’ve learned some tricks over the years to ensure repeatable success. Since you’re a non Bambu user I will also include some general tips which don’t apply to Bambu printers.
General tips (all printers)
- Build plate cleanliness is paramount (as already mentioned)
- Smooth PEI plates have an advantage over textured for tiny footprint parts as there is 100% contact with the first layer. These parts tend to sit on top of the bumps and don’t have enough material to sink into the valleys of textured plates.
- Slowing the first layer down. This allows the filament enough time to settle and squish before the nozzle zips off to another area. I usually set it to 20mm/s.
- Changing the wall order for the first layer from inner/outer to outer/inner. The outer wall is larger and so has more surface area to grab onto the plate. The inner wall is smaller and so doesn’t have enough surface contact. As a result it’s more likely to be dragged. Having the outer wall down first gives the inner wall an additional point of contact.
- Disable elephant foot compensation. On by default in Studio and Orca Slicer. This setting shrinks the first layer perimeter by 0.15mm. Disabling it = more surface contact. Your results may vary on this one because it can lead to parts not fitting properly especially if the designer didn’t already build in a first layer chamfer.
- Dry filament. Wet filament oozes and strings which can pull off small footprint parts.
Non Bambu printers aka printers I’m not familiar with their capabilities and so might not apply:
- Level your bed. A leveled bed with correct z offset will ensure proper bonding of the first layer, especially ones with tiny complicated first layers.
- Ensure retraction is well calibrated. If the nozzle is still oozing when it performs a travel move it can pull off whatever it just printed.
- Slow down first layer travel speed. Depends upon well tuned retraction and dry filament.
- Ensure the print head on the x carriage is stable. My old Ender 3 was picky about the tightness of the eccentric nuts. Too loose = wobble and inconsistent print results especially on the first layer.
- If all else fails, find a sub on Reddit for your particular printer and ask there. I say this with kindness as most of us here can only generalize. If there’s a particular quirk or known issue with your brand of printer the people on a dedicated subreddit will more likely have that information
Edit: reworded last point.
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Dummy 13’s loose parts are generally under a gram and have tiny little surface area on the bed. So if you’re not careful, they come loose easily.
It’s most likely your plate not your printer [as long as you’re using something close to defaults]
Use a smooth plate if you have one for a better chance.
Clean the plate VERY WELL - hot water, dish soap, only handle it on the edges. Add a thin layer of glue for even more insurance. [Apply glue, use a cloth to spread it out even and very lightly coated]
The kit card is acting as a “Brim” to all these small parts which is why you’re able to print the kit card easily. Using a brim the classic way would be a nightmare to remove.