What I meant was, minimize the difference between the bed and extruder temperatures. Max out the bed temp and drop extrusion temp by 5-10º (also, turn on the build plate heater manually and give the build chamber 30 minutes to get good and toasty-warm before you kick off your print).
Your goal is to keep as much of the print as close to the extrusion temp as possible. Of course, the bed and chamber can’t get anywhere near the extrusion temp and the print is going to cool and shrink no matter what you do. But the areas that have the highest temperature delta between the extruded and cooled states will shrink the most.
That’s why prints warp. The areas further away from the build plate cool more/faster than the areas nearer the build plate. As these areas cool they shrink/contract, which causes the print to “curl”. Higher up features pull “inward” as they shrink and that produces an upward force on the areas of the print lower down. We call it “warping” but I think a more descriptive term is “potato chipping”. 
It’s why an enclosed/heated print chamber is really kind of mandatory for some filaments like ABS/ASA/PA/PETG, which all have a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion, but not PLA.
Sorry for any confusion my previous comments caused.