hi guys, wasn’t sure if I should start a new thread but I am having similar issues… I print a crt monitor cover with esun matte pla and when I am about to snap it in place the print splits at the hinges. any more info on settings to obtain a solid print that can withstand normal amounts of forces?
Welcome to the forum.
I have split your post into its own topic. It’s always helpful to provide as much info/settings and pictures as you can when you are asking for help. You can add to this thread.
Regarding your question, often bumping up the nozzle temperature will help with layer adhesion problems.
Matte materials are not the best for more delicate parts.
Your hinges count as a more delicate part as increased strength required at a thinner part of a design.
The way matte materials achieve their final requires additives that cause the final material to be weaker than other materials.
Silk materials have similar characteristics.
If you require strength you need a standard material. If you need strength, it may require a different material with built in properties that give it strength. PETG, ABS & ASA come to mind.
Categorically!!!.. Listen to the Oracle, for he speaks the truth! 
I’m afraid you won’t get the results you’re looking for. Matte, Silk and other types of doped PLA are simply not going to produce as strong layer adhesion as regular PLA. I say this after wasting far too many spools, money and time.
Having not seen your model, I can’t visualize your primary objective. However, if I may hazard a guess, since you’re placing it on a monitor, you’re likely trying to create some type of anti-glare shroud and hoped the matte filament would do the job. I recently made a shade for a garage door sensor, and it didn’t work as a snap-on item using matte filament due to the issues you described. My workaround involved two approaches, both of which worked.
Approach 1
I took my model and rather than making it a snap-on product, I instead divided it into two halves with a screw-on bracket. This approach worked better than stressing the clip-on Matte PLA version.
The regular PLA worked without this modification.
Approach 2
I used regular PLA and spray painted the interior of the shade with flat black paint which adheres very well to PLA. This allowed me to do a snap-on model but also have the benefit of anti-glare inside the tube where it was most needed.
Now note that in both cases, I used PolyMaker PLA. The PolyMaker matte filament simply wasn’t up to the task of being stressed that far without snapping.
thank you guys for all your answers - this community is really rocking!
Ill try to add a picture of the crt controls cover in the top post, it breaks at the snap in point.
unfortunately I can’t add pics or links, its thing:2477001 in thingverse
One advice is to search for a similar model (683369) in Thingiverse, which seems better designed.
I didn’t check, but it may be worth looking in other repositories to see if there is a better model.
The model requires support for the snap hinges, which are also the most fragile region. I would follow Olias’ advice and split the model into three objects: the two laterals, which include the snap hinges and the cover.
Not only do you avoid using ss, but printing the sides horizons will also improve your print strength. In any case, either ensure a higher infill/walls and, if possible, a more adequate material:
You should be able to now.
hi jay, thank you for your analysis and time! I have already printed this model with separate hinges and looks great, unfortunately the clamping part is too wide (bigger diameter than it should) and the whole cover wobbles when attached. I need to see if there is a way (i.e. using tinkdercad) to reduce the diameter.
need to find esun light khaki in normal PLA or other strong filament
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And the other model’s dimensions are tighter? If not, it can be a dimensional error on the print file. If so, you may want to follow the calibration procedure;
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If it is only the diameter, and since the part is simple, it is feasible to make some minor changes. I am not a TinkerCad expert, so I cannot help you. But I suppose that you can find some support within the forum.
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I would use at least PETG for the hinges. If you can’t get a filament with the right colour, you can always sand, prime and paint. If done correctly, the look tends to be the best.
I’d urge you to consider using a free OnShape account. TinkerCAD is too blunt of a tool for good 3D work. OnShape with it’s parametric design approach like SolidWorks and Fusion 360, is better suited to changing dimensions on a part. The big advantage is that it is cloud hosted so you only need a browser and decent Internet connection. Look at this video form Teaching Tech for ideas on how to manage an STL file for use in 3D printing. His channel is dedicated to 3D printing and he has a lot of OnShape to 3D printing tutorials.
Yeah, I was going to say that earlier, but I presumed you had a preference for PLA.
In my experience, PLA is the worst material for functional moving parts. Most of what I print are mechanical parts, which is why I learned OnShape. PLA is too soft and weak, and it doesn’t work well for mechanical replacement parts, especially where you need spring-like plasticity, such as in a clip-on part like you’re trying to replace. ABS is likely what the original part was made of, but it’s not easy to work with, and the smell of burnt plastic during printing is definitely an issue. I find PC to be the best for replacement parts because it can be machined and tapped, eliminating the need for brass inserts. It also has a rigidity similar to ABS, allowing for good spring-like action. However, it’s drawback is that it doesn’t print as smoothly leaving a lot of post print processing to cut off all the zits and PC lacks color variety, making it less ideal for aesthetic parts. But if you want to make something that comes near molded plastic that is resilient to temps, PC is a great option.
For functional parts that require both aesthetics and strength, PETG is, in my experience, the best balance of strength, beauty, and ease of use. It comes in many colors, including a simulated marble version that I’ve used for simulated stone. PETG marble filament models, when weighted with encapsulated ball bearings during the print, even mimic the heft of stone.
Guys I have no words. Thank you. I’ll check out OnShape asap and try a print using this crappy PLA then go for PETG (will have to paint it though). Keep up the good work!