Please see the photo attached. I am new to the game. ESun ABS+ with the generic ABS settings. So far this has been on and off. But I am printing for my business so I am hoping that the community can lend a hand here. If I need to provide more info please let me know. Cheers.
- Printer model used
- Slicer settings used
- Type of filament used
- Photos that clearly show the problem
- .3mf file (if the file can be shared)
- Any potentially useful information that is related to the problem
That will be a challenging model to do in a warping filament like ABS. Looking at the picture, you’re building spires only anchored on midair supports, and joining them at the top. The most minor of heat-related ABS-bananafication will cause those tips to get caught and shoved aside by the toolhead. You could also force supports along the entire undercarraige to act as insurance to holding it in place while its hot and dangling midair
I would use a GF or CF ABS for enhanced printability of this, if you have to use ABS.
Good luck!
You failed to mention what build plate you’re using, and if you’re using any glue. Also, while the photograph is clear, it cannot help us understand how the part actually sat on your build plate. What would help the community help you is if you can supply a screenshot of the model as it sat on your build plate and if possible, upload the 3MF file so we can inspect the settings directly.
I’d wager that you may not be using glue and you may not be using the best build plate for ABS.
Here is a pic of it on the textured build plate. Unfortunately I can’t share the file. I am able to produce these successfully but this happens occasionally. Would more support be beneficial? And how about PETG?
Thanks Bullocks. I am looking for strength and heat resistance. Maybe PETG is a better more consistent option?
Based on that photo, I can make three suggestions.
Frequent cleanings. Textured PEI plates work best when consistently cleaned with hot dishwashing detergent like dawn. Do not scrub them, you’ll ruin the surface, let the dishwashing detergent.
Switch to a smooth plate, it matters less what kind of plate it is but smooth plates stick better than textured. If you decide to go PETG, note that you will definitely want to use glue but not for the reasons you might think. PETG is hyperaggressive when it comes to sticking on any surface. The glue actually acts as a release liner between the model and the build plate.
Before you try any of that, try adding larger brims. That can make a big difference in a hurry. It will add print time but it’s worth experimenting with.
Oh, interesting, I see now that it’s all joined on the bottom too. First pic made it look like a ribcage w/ floating ribs. That helps.
I still think you should try with a support structure manually painted on the bottom ribs, with a lower-than-normal top Z distance and XY side distance, all the way from about 60degrees up to where it goes flat and joins to your breastbone. (image reference: same-ish Z layer as the bottom of your R text, all the way up) It will be harder to remove [on purpose.] This might give those ribs some minor attachment force to resist warping UP. Your disaster scenario is happening very likely cuz they warp UP and get knocked off by the passing nozzle. If you can influence the warp to prefer sideways, you’ll just end up with a minor layer XY shift on that rib as it joins the main structure, which will be aesthetic fails but still probably be very well fused. Printers without active chamber heating (and even those with them LOL) struggle with warping, you’re going to need to accept some % of variability and fails.
If you are asking for a material recommendation, I really like PETG-CF for printability and still being mechanically alright. ABS-GF is also very strong and prints well but it has distinct stiffness [and surface] that sometimes make it unsuitable. Temp resistance is a problem for PETG, it resists natural environmental “hot day” heat ranges very well but like, in an engine bay or in a corner attached to a hot machine? idk. You’ll need to make the call there.
Thank you Olias. I am a newbie that has been thrown into the fire. I am trying to learn the printing game and manage 6 PS1’s. I’m using Nesco dehydrators that I can dry two spools at a time. What’s your take on dehydrators vs baking?
Picture didn’t show clearly where it failed. So, we all can do is just guessing
My guess is, this is the case of bad layer adhensive: nozzle temp not high enough, print speed too fast, bed temp is not hot enough, chamber temp is too cold, small blob deposited there and got knocked off by print head… like there are 101 reasons for ABS print to fail.
Let me tease you with an answer by providing you a photo of one of my favorite drying accidents:
If you’re new to the community, you’ll likely notice two things that may seem contradictory but are both true:
Unlike Reddit or Discord, this forum is organized by topic and encourages focused, long-form discussion. Some of the most useful experience-based advice can be found here.
Like Reddit and Discord, there’s also a fair amount of bad advice - often from people with more opinions than data. Opinions are not facts. Just because someone shares one doesn’t make them wrong, but many are biased, anecdotal, or flat-out incorrect.
My first piece of advice: don’t trust anything you read here - or anywhere - without testing it for yourself. That includes what I’m telling you. I try to validate things with real testing, but my conditions may not match yours. As a former U.S. president said: “Trust, but verify.” Most people here mean well - that’s what makes this a solid community - but some get oddly defensive when their opinions are challenged with data.
If your current drying method works, then that’s the best solution for you. But here’s what I’d suggest: learn to recognize what dry filament actually is. The key rule - easy to test - is this: verify.
If I had a dollar for every “I dried it for ## hours” post, I’d be retired. That approach gives false comfort. The only reliable method to know if filament is drying is to weigh it before and during drying. If the weight drops, moisture is leaving. If it doesn’t, it was probably already dry. Less likely: your dryer isn’t reaching effective temperatures - anything below 50°C is questionable. Heat is necessary to dry filament. Just make sure you don’t follow my experience with the photo at the top. Heat is necessary… more heat? Not so much!!
As for purpose-built dryers: in general, the fancier they look, the worse they perform. Their big advantage is convenience - they let you print directly from the dryer, which saves time. But if you’re drying multiple spools at once, they get expensive fast.
If you want to go deep, I did a head-to-head bake-off between the Sunlu S2 and Creality Pi dryers. Spoiler: I returned the Sunlu. It technically worked, just poorly. The takeaway? Even bad methods can dry filament - just not well. The review thread is long, but the community’s contributions are worthwhile:
Some clever users even use their heated print beds as dryers:
And of course, my personal ghetto favorite​
- Note: This was my very first foray into filament drying and that pic you see is my printer with a filament box, something Bambu suggests on their wiki, not my idea:
Thank you very much Olias. For the time and attention here. I will be more careful in the future and search the subjects before chiming in. I do realize that we are all sailing this 3D printing sea solo due to our individual situations and environments. Btw. You were completely correct. I added inside/outside and widened the brims and had success with my prints. Have a great day!
