Have searched/watched several YT videos but not finding any that are helping here. Have about forty hours on a H2D so just getting into/learning advanced settings. Trying to print the hand grips for the TEDAC for an AH64 in DCS. First print I tried standing them up but got weird layers that didn’t seem to follow the radius of the hand grip. Working on trying to print them laying down but seeing the same thing in the slicer. I have played with layer height, variable layer height, patterns, etc. What am I missing? Using Bambu Studio.
Its likely the model you’re using’s geometry follows those general lines
Share the 3mf if you want more directed info
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GitHub - MilKris666/-DCS-AH-64D-TEDAC-v2.0-: The TEDAC features an 8-inch TDU and adjustable grips that match the original in size and functionality I got them here; the grips.
theres a lot of files in there so I hope Im lookin at the same one!
ls -al
$ find . -name “*.stl”
./Grips/ADJUSTABLE Grips_Counter_Disk_LHG.stl
./Grips/ADJUSTABLE Grips_Counter_Disk_RHG.stl
./Grips/Grip Shell Parts Standalone Version/LHG_Shell_Part_1_Standalone.stl
./Grips/Grip Shell Parts Standalone Version/RHG_Shell_Part_1_Standalone.stl
./Grips/Grip_Top_Parts for Laser Engraving/LHG_Top_Part_1.stl
./Grips/Grip_Top_Parts for Laser Engraving/LHG_Top_Part_2.stl
./Grips/Grip_Top_Parts for Laser Engraving/RHG_Top_Part_1.stl
./Grips/Grip_Top_Parts for Laser Engraving/RHG_Top_Part_2.stl
./Grips/Grip_Top_Parts without Labels/LHG_Top_Part.stl
./Grips/Grip_Top_Parts without Labels/RHG_Top_Part.stl
./Grips/LHG_Shell_Part_1.stl
./Grips/LHG_Shell_Part_2.stl
./Grips/LHG_Top_Part_3dPrint_Labels.stl
./Grips/RHG_Shell_Part_1.stl
./Grips/RHG_Shell_Part_2.stl
./Grips/RHG_Top_Part_3dPrint_Labels.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/4 WAY SWITCH/4Way_Switch_Base_v2.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/4 WAY SWITCH/4Way_Switch_Shaft_v2.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/4 WAY SWITCH/4Way_Switch_Top.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/4 WAY SWITCH/HAT_Type_1.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/4 WAY SWITCH/HAT_Type_2.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/FJ06K_Joystick_Bracket.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/HAT for FJ06kK Joystick Typ 1.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/HAT for FJ06kK Joystick Typ 2.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/Switch_Type_1.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/Switch_Type_2.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/Switch_Type_3.stl
./Grips/SWITCHES & BUTTONS/Trigger.stl
./Housing/Grip housing Backcover.stl
./Housing/Mount-Adapter-Typ1/TEDAC Mount-Adapter-Typ1 Left (Part1).stl
./Housing/Mount-Adapter-Typ1/TEDAC Mount-Adapter-Typ1 Left (Part2).stl
./Housing/Mount-Adapter-Typ1/TEDAC Mount-Adapter-Typ1 Right (Part1).stl
./Housing/Mount-Adapter-Typ1/TEDAC Mount-Adapter-Typ1 Right (Part2).stl.stl
./Housing/TEDAC_Grip_Housing_Adjustable_Grips.stl
./Miscellaneous/Apache-Model-Adapter.stl
./Miscellaneous/Desk_Foot_Grip.stl
./Miscellaneous/Desk_Stand_TDU.stl
./Miscellaneous/Pushbutton_Cap.stl
./Miscellaneous/Screen_Dummy.stl
Selected LHG-Shell-Part1
A view of that from the Front plane, you can see it does have a very organic swoopy shape
But moreso, I see triangle artifacts from maybe a low res export from game files or something. See those little micro humps in the evenness of the texture?
Theyre present when sliced, too
And I do see similar
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Anything that can be done with those sections? Im not a design artist so working in solid works or some other cad program is far outside of my capabilities. Given its for hobby flight sim I can live with it but at the same time sure would be cool to have them looking nice.
You could sand and paint the part if the layer lines really bother you.
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In the machine settings in Studio, you can lower the minimum layer height for adaptive layers brlow the arbitrarily set default. With a 0.4mm nozzle, I have had good results down to 0.03mm. I regard 0.04mm as “safe” for myself. Of course, print time goes up accordingly.
& 
Tried that, same thing. Maker replied to me saying its something in my slicer, Bambu Studio, but i dont know what. I have played with settings all afternoon but keep seeing those layers begin to spread apart after each slice.
Have you tried printing? At low layer height you probably wont even notice it on the final piece, and if you do, 1 lick with 220grit will get you there. To fix it before printing, youll need to modify the model.
You can do other things like Remove the “only 1 wall on top” setting to see how that organizes the patterns better, might provide less of a highlight of the discontinuity if it all looks like loops
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His YouTube video showing how it’s done?
He also shows that he sands and coats it. Almost each part is processed with sandpaper and painted. Your 3D printer cannot generate such smooth surfaces, so you will have to do some reworking as shown in the video.
By the way, he also gives tips for orientation.
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