Looking for waterproof printing setting (PETG) G1/2" fittings

Bambu Lab X1 Series
121

And how tall is the hex nut part only ?

I think you just need to increase the bottom shell layers put to something like 50 then it would go up to 8mm @ .16 layer height or you might have to even put it higher if it like 10mm

122

The hex nut is 6mm high.

I think now the bottom is so far tight again, but what I wonder is that apparently between the printed thread now water comes out. Although there only wall layers are printed to the top and the upper surfaces are ironed again, which optically achieves a great result. The question would be if I should print this with .16mm. I almost think that I have more success with my resin printer as far as the fittings are concerned. There was directly the 1st tight. The problem is that I print larger components and I can not print with the resin printer, but must point to the carbon. So how do I get tight connections here, if I can’t even get a fitting printed tightly…

Difficult topic. Should I try nylon?

Kind regards
DrCarbon

123

The only filament I have used for 100% water proof and under pressure on a fdm printer is polypropylene and you have to have all the settings perfect but I have not used polypropylene on the Bambu lab X1 yet do to I have other printers for this filament.

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The problem is, even when I print solids, it leaks. I’m wondering if the existing seal might not be working properly.

Kind regards
DrCarbon

125

Hi,

does anyone know if the Carbon X1 saves the last bedleveling? So that you do not have to do it again with each print? Assuming I make two prints in a row.

Greetings
DrCarbon

126

Carbon X1 saves the last bed leveling

Yes

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127

Thanks 3DTech,

Another thread mentions that this is done using the M500 Command:

DrCarbon’s question was specific to the Carbon X1 and saving it for two prints in a row. I assume the P1P (and other models) saves the bed leveling too (correct me if I am wrong). Do you know if bed leveling is saved so that it does not get erased after a power cycle?

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Hi TruckerD,

I have not tested after a power cycle do to I start off with bed leveling for the first print of the day on my X1.

But you can look at your first layer print lines and you will know if it’s off or not I always check mine even with auto leveling the :eyes: is the best judge.

Sorry I don’t know on the P1P but I think it should keep it just look at the first layer lines and you will know.

Happy 3D Printing :v:

129

Okay, thank you very much for your contributions.

I might check with support again.

Do you guys remember my big print that took almost a full day to print?

With the yellow material? It is also leaking. Today I found that the best settings unfortunately did not bring any actual improvement. Optically everything looks good but water penetrates through the outer walls, if only drop by drop and the container I have printed is only filled with water, but is not under pressure.

I have now gone to try to seal the tank from the outside.

Greetings
DrCarbon

130

What about trying with TPU ?

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You might just have to annealed the big petg parts to get them 100% sealed up you can over extrude a little but petg is not very happy with over extrusion printing.

You can look more into it Annealing

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TPU is too soft. I have already tried to print TPU that went totally wrong. Possibly there is also hard. Haber but so far none found or used.

Kind regards
DrCarbon

133

Hi together,

there is nothing new on my project.

Nevertheless i would like to give you an update.

Does anybody know if i have the possibililty to set the z-seam to the inner side of an object? That the outer wall is complete clear?

Thanks
Kind regards
DrCarbon

134

Hello DrCarbon,

No you will always have a outside wall Z seam.

You can paint the seam to the best location on your part but if it’s a round tube you will see the Z seam.

Tip: I don’t know your part design but you can change the order of the walls and start with outer wall first if you want the outside seam to roll inwards.

Have a good one :grinning:

1 Like
135

I know its an old thread but i wanted to give my suggestions.
I am printing functional parts as well requiring waterproof.

I print with a 0.8 nozzle.
Most leaks i’ve seen are in the seam.
So i activate seam: position to random, gap to 2%
And in precision: gap closing to 0.001

136

Hi Magickarle,

Ya this was an old thread long lost lol and ya that will help I even do the same with zero seam gap.

FYI Ocra Slicer 2.0.0 has even more seam options you can staggered inner seams and also scarf joint seams. I have done cylinders with no seam showing… :slight_smile:

Have a good one :v:

1 Like