Hero Forge STL on a P1S device. Not really sure if I can correct this or not - but the facial detail is pretty much missing from the print unless I scale up to 150 or 200 percent. Nice, but it’s no longer a gaming mini at that point.
Version 2.4.070 and current firmware (01.09.00.00). Most likely just my inexperience with this whole process, but haven’t had this issue with any other print, including similar zombie minis that I’ve printed dozens of.
Apologies, attaching now. I wanted to get permission to post it, since I am trying to print it for a friend. I’ve tried various printing sizes (.08mm High Quality, .20 Strength…etc. Sorry to be super newb - I will keep researching, just hoping someone was able to help or simply tell me this isn’t the best setup for printing these. Up until now, I’ve not really seen any poor quality mini prints.
.2 or .4 I am guessing (its printing right now) as it is all stock an there is a .4 extra in the box. But I thought it came with a .4 and a spare, so maybe .4.
Got a .2 nozzle, no marked improvement - and actually gets a bit worse or too thin and spins parts of the models now. Looked back at previous .4 nozzle prints like this and they are all normal/fine. Maybe not perfect details but better than this. So still struggling with this one.
buy a resin printer for that. fdm is enough to print bases and structures, not units, unless you like sagging on the bottoms. then when you paint you find more artifact, artificial recesses etcetera.
resin printed models come out absolutely perfect and smooth. If your file don’t fit the volume then it’s time for the fdm (mostly bases and buildings) then resin is super easy to sand.
I don’t disagree with the resin (now that I know a tiny bit more), but I don’t have one. - I have what I have, and am just trying to reason out why I am getting two solidly different results from the same unit and stl producer. Can only assume at this stage, something has changed in how they create new ones, not designed/optimal for this type of unit.