I’m trying to assemble the CyberBrick official remote and my CRV based 1.5mm hex bit is stripping the screws included in the CyberBrick kits. Does anyone know what metal or hardness rating are on this screws?
My technique right now is to drive a screw until stripped, use needle nose to hand twist back out, throw the screw away, grab another screw and hope it doesn’t strip before securing whatever part I’m working on. At this rate, I won’t have enough screws to complete the build.
I have had a sinilar problem with my cheap bit pack. The hex key included with the printer solved that. Had to print some handles to go easier on the fingers with so many screws though 
I was able to use my small drill driver and a 1.5mm Hex bit. I started with a ball end bit but that wasn’t rugged enough with these small screws. I didn’t wreck any screws though, but did go through a couple of drive bits.
The screws themselves exceeded my expectations. You should just snug them as the plastic threads will strip easily and it’s not like there is a lot of stress on any of the joints.
Yeah. Cheap Hex drivers round off pretty easily. Might seem to be the screw, but it might be the driver. Try a different driver.
at first i used the different mini bits and ended up stripping some of the screws, then I bought a good set of hex drivers and the 1.3 and 1.5 have been used the most with almost no stripping of screws
Anyone with a 3D printer should own a good set of hardened hex drivers! For the most used sizes hardened ball drivers can save a headache.
I 100% recommend the wera drivers, like this. Amazon.com
I’ve been able to pull out screws that other hex bits stripped. I’ve never stripped a screw with them. They’re so, just. Haha. I threw out every other allen wrench or hex bit I had, after getting those.
I’m a Wera drivers fan too.
I have a Multiboard compatible rotating holder for them:
I have similar problems with those screw, I just appears to me that they are not made for high torc. But a lot of holes on cyberbrick models come out a bit tight, so high torc is needed to get them in. I destroyed 2 bits and the hex key that came with one of my printers with these screws. Only workaround i found so far is to heat the screws up with a torch and screw them in then, but i may be a hassle to get them out again.
Yes, the straight, not ball end, have been working well for me. The M2.5 and smaller screws are too shallow for ball end drivers and they’ll easily strip out. The straight drivers fit so well that I can place the screw on the end of the driver and it will hold it until I place the screw in the opening.
I concur with Tom. Also I have drill the holes a tad larger at times
These are the drivers I own. Bought probably 10+ years ago, still every bit as good as new. Not cheap. But good tools are worth the money.
I’ve gone through so many allen wrenches over the years. It’s been especially frustrating with smaller screws where they’re so prone to rounding over. Once I gave in and got those Wera drivers, it just changed my perspective.
Haha I’d avoid ball ends for anything below a certain size! I’ve eyed their ball end set a few times, but ehhh.
I’ve eyed those before. They look nice. I’ve always wondered how they stand up.
They’ve been rock solid. Better than the Wiha Precision set I also own. To be expected given the three MIP wrenches cost as much as a full set of any other wrench. The tips are ground from hardened steel rod, where I think many others are formed by stamping or broaching. They tend to fit the screw head sockets tighter, and because the corners of the hex tip are sharp angles (no rounding on the corners like you get from stamping) they don’t wring out the sockets as easily.
I have some other drivers that have ground tips like the MIP, weren’t as expensive, and many have broken. They have a much longer length of grinding, the hex is 10+ mm long where the MIP driver tips are only a few mm, just enough to get all the way in to a cap screw socket.
If you’ve got the money to spare, buy the MIP and you should never need to buy another driver again for the rest of your life. 
I have been using brass inserts. These work really well especially for those attachment points that are repeatedly screwed and unscrewed.
Those are stainless steel. I typically use nickel-plated carbon steel flat-end self-tapping screws
I simply change all screws to cross head M2.5x6
Unfortunately some of the hex screws sold by bambu are horrible quality, I found out when I was assembling the FMG9 water pistol. The M2.5 hex were fine but the M2 were from very soft metal and would strip under any kind of torque. I have top quality drivers (wera, MIP), so it had nothing to do with that. If the M1.5 are similar quality to the M2, I would suggest you pick up some better quality screws from amazon or aliexpress.
I’m honestly pretty frustrated at this point and just need to vent a bit — and hopefully get some insight.
This is not a driver issue. I’ve tried:
Wera hex drivers
Other quality drivers
The Snapmaker/Bambu Allen key
The hex driver that comes with the CyberBrick Ultimate Kit
The screws that came with the Ultimate Kit were excellent — hard stainless, barely ever stripped, felt solid going into PLA.
But the additional screws I ordered separately from Bambu have been terrible. Almost every single one is stripping before the screw is even snug. I’m not cranking them down, and I’m assembling printed parts that should be well within spec. The hex just rounds out immediately.
Because of this, I’ve had to:
break printed parts to extract stripped screws
reprint parts unnecessarily
waste a ton of time on what should be a straightforward build
At this point I’ve even considered running a tap through the holes just to reduce resistance — but then the screws won’t hold as securely, which kind of defeats the purpose for something like a CyberBrick vehicle that’s supposed to be sturdy.
What’s especially frustrating is the inconsistency:
Ultimate Kit screws = great
Separately purchased screws = junk
Same size, same application, totally different results.
Has anyone else run into this?
Did Bambu change suppliers or hardness on these screws?
And does anyone have a recommended replacement source that actually matches the quality of the Ultimate Kit screws?
I really like the CyberBrick system overall, but these screws are turning what should be a fun build into a headache.
Yes some of the screw from Bambu are terrible quality, especially the M2. I posted about this on FMG9 water pistol comments, first comment there. I have top quality Wiha and MIP drivers and they are such soft metal that driving them into plastic stripped them, I now only buy from reputable sellers from aliexpress. Also when they are super small like M2 I prefer phillips screws they are much harder to strip.