How do you create new desing with 3D software. Whenever I create something like a housing for some PCB or something else I never manage to make it 100% right. After I print first failed model I repair my design in 3D software and than test if all fits if not repair design again. So sometimes I print and repair design 2 times sometimes 3 times.
HOW do you create design so all fits first time when you create design and print it.
I just design a box for Arduino and again nothing fits in that box
When I design a box for a specific PCB I donāt print the whole box out first. I just print out the bit where the PCB fits. Then I can just tweak the results. Itās usually just small changes, like 0.5mm, that need doing.
Thatās a very broad ask you have there, this however might be some good tips.
I just started out with 3D software and this is what I came across (regardless of the software you use):
Hope this helps.
thank you for advice. I dont model every day but when I need something and still learnig I mostly use fusion360 which is not that easy to use. And here are pucture of what I am talking aobut.
When Iām designing something that needs to fit an existing part, like a PCB, Iāll often make a rough model of it (the PCB) first. Then design my enclosure or whatever around that model. The trick is to model the āPCBā with accurate dimensions where it matters (taking into account any mounted components, for example). It doesnāt have to look or be perfect, as long as the key dimensions are accurate. A flat PCB is easy to draw of course, though components can be more tricky. Luckily almost all electronic components have 3D models available for them (eg. from the DigiKey product pages). In some cases of course a whole device may have drawings/models already available as well.
I often do the same when I need to fit a part into some environmentā¦ like for a kitchen sponge holder I did a rough layout of our sink area to make sure it will all fit properly. I often do this for 2D design as well (eg. carpentry/construction projects).
Another big advantage of having everything modeled is checking for clearance/movement.
Finallyā¦ 2-3 iterations is not a lot, at least for me. Iāll use dozens of tests in some tricky cases. Print parts in pieces to check fit/etc piecemeal vs. one large print at once, if possible. Tolerances and shrinkage will make this all more difficult, but is manageable.
Patience.
Cheers,
-Max
If I was designing the box in your pic, I would do as @MaxThreeD suggested. Draw up the PCB. Do a 0.6mm thick print of the PCB and holes so you can see if everything lines up. Once the holes and size line up with the PCB them measure the connector and other things you need access to.
Once the PCB is done then its easier to design the box. For testing purposes you can just print out the corner of the box where the PCB is and not the whole box. You donāt even have to print out the full height of the box.
Designs that work perfectly on the first try are rare, but you will reduce the number and size of errors with experience.
I usually make a very rough pencil sketch first, which helps me see which dimensions will be important and start imagining how I will create the model. ("Pick a size; sketch on the floor plane, offset the wall, add PCB mounting boss and feet locations, etc; extrude bottom and feet down, extrude walls and bosses up; sketch openings on inside wall; etc.)
I measure critical dimensions of existing parts with digital calipers, and sometimes also use them to visualize a dimension when I have a choice. (āa 3mm wall should workā¦ā)
For all but the simplest designs, I specify and name the critical dimensions, and add them as User parameters in the parameter table. It is much easier to modify a named dimension later than to figure out what ād47ā refers to. Calculated dimensions are also easier to understand if the values are named.
If I have time, I might wait a day or so to review the design and re-check dimensions before printing. Often I realize Iāve left something out, or picked the wrong reference point for a measurement.
It might help to make a model of the PCB as another component, partly for Fusion practice, and also to check the fit against your box design. You donāt need to show everything, but include overall height, width, length, mounting hole locations, and port dimensions. Then move it into place to check alignment, clearances, and interferences.
YouTube has some great tutorials, but simply watching only shows you what is possible. Following along, actually performing the steps in Fusion will help embed the process in your head.
Some of the initial tutorials that helped me get started were by Desktop Makes, Product Design Online, and Lars Christensen. Check their playlists and maybe search through their videos from a few years back for basic procedures.
Lately, Iāve discovered some really good tips and techniques from Brad Tallis and Tyler Beck.
What you are designing are prototypes.
Creating something that is perfect the first time is not common. This is normally because a real design is more than a simple geometric primitive shape with defined dimensions.
How you can reduce iterations:
Iterations often make the final model better.
There is always something you realise when you test it. A corner you didnāt consider, a positional problem you didnāt consider.
Enjoy the process.
Design is a skill.
When I design an enclosure for anything, I start by creating/finding a model of the stuff thatās being enclosed, lay them out the way I want, then design the enclosure around them.
Good quality measurements, understanding of tolerance and attention to detail is critical.
Try to always measure from centers of circles whenever possible, when measuring the space between things, its very natural to translate that kinda measurement to CAD despite being a little more troublesome to take. Helps me.
You donāt mention the tools you use but good digital calipers are invaluable. Makes it quick and easy to check/verify dimensions. I also have some good metal machinists rulers with precision metric and English scales.
Also, things like Arduino boards will have full mechanical dimensions in their documentation. Board outside dimensions, hole locations & sizes, etc. Their drawings are extremely useful for quick reference.
And it does take a little time to get good with that kind of thing. You have to allow for printers to decrease clearances by giving things just a bit extra. Also, when working with circuit boards donāt forget clearances for through-hole fittings that stick out on the bottoms/backs of boards, connectors, etc.
I like to use the slice tools in Bambu Studio to cut a model down to a core part Iām wanting to test the fit or finish of a specific part/area. Helps with much larger parts that can take ages and tons of filament to print.
Design, like everything else is a set of skills that one develops over time. The most fundamental design skills tend to fall under the heading of drafting. Having a good solid understanding of geometric construction is a very useful skill to have.
I agree with the idea that it is best to model the PCB first and then model the enclosure around it. Since you are using an Arduino, you should be able to find a CAD model on-line if you donāt want to model it yourself. If you design the enclosure with the PCB model in place, in Fusion, within tolerances, the end result should print the same as what is seen in Fusion.
I used to do this professionally, design printed circuit boards and the enclosures that house them. Before anything could be made, drawings and other documentation had to be released. In order for them to be released other people had to sign off on them. Including people like from quality control and manufacturing. Then the machinist or vender or whoever would do the work would look over the drawings and offer their feedback. In such a system the vast majority of errors are discovered and rectified before anything is made. I used to double and triple check my work based on the idea that even small mistakes on my end had the potential to ripple throughout the project. It was part of the ādesign in excellenceā ethos that I had bought into. Or maybe it was just OCD.
Fusion has turned out to be a wonderful program for designing electronic based products. One can create a schematic and run it through a circuit simulator. From the schematic one can create a printed circuit board and feed that printed circuit board directly into the 3D modeling and create the packaging and feed it into the CAM section, all the while having the capability to create all the necessary documentation and file types. All in one program.
I keep thinking that it would be good idea if there was an arrangement where models on MakerWorld could be coupled with PCBs made from someone like PCBWay. Where one could order a PCB to go along with a 3D print.
Iāve been surprised how few know how to solder or have the proper tools. Most stuff now is also pretty small which just compounds the problem. Even 0.1ā pitch pin headers are a bridge too far for many. Itās a disappearing skill I think.
Basic soldering is still pretty widespread known, but most modern solder tasks are micro scale. Those are a little more frought, and I am getting too old to function that. Protip the local phone repair guys will do general PCB work too if you ever need your Bambu motherboard USB patched up.
I have tried several cad programs. For boxes I use openscad. It is free. It is fast. The only issue is you must think in 3d. Subtracting objects from other objects to create the box. Once you learn to think this way it is fast.
The other issue is measuring the boards. I use digital calipers or I look up the position of the mounting holes. Have I needed to redesign? Yes, but in general it is fast and easy once you learn how to draw it in pure 3d. In the old days I worked in 2d and converted to 3d, but now it is 3d only.
This is what I do as well, saves soooo much filament and time!
If one orders PCBs from a company like PCBWay, there is the option to have the board fully stuffed and soldered.
PCB way does an amazing job. I dont think enough people use them.
You can get a simple board made for only a few dollars..
It makes sense, but it is odd.
Frankly most things you dont need to. Most devices use some sort of push pin connector. Or you can crimp.
It is only for small electronics where you really need to solder.
