With my H2D I am able to select Smooth PEI plate/High Temp Plate. I use that setting along with a bunch of other settings to make the part I’m printing turn out correctly on my H2D, looks great.
On the H2C, I select PEI plate, since I don’t have the smooth option, set all of the same settings but the print is slightly worse than on the H2D, the first layer isn’t as uniformed.
I’m thinking it has something to do with the build plate difference.
Other than temp, what do the different build plates change?
Yes thats completely fine. The plate type sets the temps and for most plates except SuperTack they are the same. The only other exception is the textured plate on which the Z offset/squish is slightly higher. I use Engineering setting for any smooth plate, and SuperTack for Frostbite. But even if you forget and set Textured PEI for any other plate type nothing bad will happen. In fact I often set Textured PEI for Frostbite/SuperTack plate for more heat and better adhesion for items with small contact patch so I dont have to use a brim.
Thanks for the clarification — I originally thought the plate selection was controlling additional hidden settings that we couldn’t override.
I’m going to try the Engineering Plate to see if it changes anything. I’m printing PETG, so I usually keep the bed between 70–75 °C, bumping it slightly higher when I want a bit more first‑layer squish.
I also tweak the flow rate on the filament itself (typically from 0.95 up to 1.0) and adjust the initial layer height under Quality to around 0.56–0.58 mm.
That combination has been giving me a very consistent first layer. Since the part I’m making has a visible 4" × 4" first layer, I want that surface to come out as clean and uniform as possible.
I haven’t done as much testing as I like as the results I am getting are satisfactory, so it’s likely that additional adjustments to the above settings would produce even better first layers.
BTW, I’m using the BIQU Cryogrip Glacier plates, I like the texture it gives the first layer.
