I can already tell that shrinkage/warping is going to be an issue…
It’s YXpolyer PPS filament. AFAIK, no fiber. Using generic PPS profile.
It’s YXpolyer PPS filament. AFAIK, no fiber. Using generic PPS profile.
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Try the smooth PEI plate if you have that. I was positively surprised how good my PAHT-CF stuck on that in relation to the textured plate. Even without any glue.
When I tested PAHT-CF on the textured plate, the beginning of the purge line already curled up before it reached the end.
I know that the lack of fibers is a main cause, but it’s worth a try.
I still haven’t touched my PA06-CF yet, so I might run into bed adhesion issues with that also.
In that case I will possibly buy the Darkmoon Garollite build plate.
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Good ideas. My first thought is to crank the chamber temperature from 60C to 65C and the bed temperature from 110C to 120C. That’s what I ended up with for the PPS-CF, but this is just the first try using the generic profile.
For PPS-CF, I actually had too much adhesion on the textured plate, so I ended up using magigoo as a release agent. It might be that I applied too much prior to starting the calibration, as any excess doesn’t hold well.
At the moment I don’t think I even have a smooth plate for the H2D. Garolite would definitely be the way to go for PETG and maybe this as well.
Meanwhile, if this continues, I may have go the opposite direction and reach for the visioneer nano adhesive. It’s my last resort because it typically sticks really hard.
Preferably I stay away from glue as much as possible, but in some cases you can’t work around it. I needed glue on the textured plate for my PAHT-CF and that was what made me try the smooth plate.
I wonder why you consider garolite for PETG. For me PETG works out fine on the textured plate. Not had any case yet where I had too much or poor adhesion.
So any additives to the build plate, is really a last resort to me.
At least in the past, PETG has almost always stuck too tightly for me to a PEI build plate. It was that way on my X1C as well. I’ve even seen seasoned youtubers run into the same problem. So much so I thought it was a near universal problem! Maybe it’s due to my only fairly recently starting to use a reduced flow multiplier for the initial layer. Not sure. Before I didn’t use it.
However, on X1C and a hot garolite build plate, PETG would stick great and then self-release afterward when the plate cooled off. Nothing else came even close. Not even Wam Bam’s Carbon Fiber build plate, which I thought was a huge disappointment compared to garolite. Even compared to my DIY garolite build plate (I have a thread on that if anyone’s interested). Matter of fact my X1C DIY garolite build plate is still going strong even after the commercial ones bubbled up and became no longer useable…
The Bambu HF PETG and my overture PETG come off my smooth and textured PEI plates on their own when the plates cool.
This high speed Sunlu PETG sticks like the devil and I’ve had to use isopropyl (capillary action) to get it free. I just spray the edges lightly and give it 2-3 min and the stuff slides right off.
Never used a PETG that stuck so good until I used the Sunlu and PETG is my favorite material I’ve been using since ~2016.
I have a G10 garoline bed I haven’t used yet. What temp would you suggest for it when using PETG?
80C.
Yeah, I’m a fan of Sunlu HS-PETG as well. On my X1C I’m getting 40mm^3/sec maximum flow rate with it! Amazing. Faster by far than even HS-PLA.
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Definite improved adhesion just from increasing chamber temp to 65C and build plate to 120C and avoiding magigoo altogether.
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Well, those are just your flow calibration prints. Hopefully it stays that way on higher prints where warp is more prominent.
It’s not sticking very well at all. Unless vision miner can hold it flat, or maybe using some other kind of build plate, it’s going to be useles. 
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From google AI, (no guarantee though):
For printing PPS without fibers, a smooth PEI (Polyetherimide) build plate is generally recommended. It provides excellent adhesion for a variety of filaments, including PPS, and results in a smooth, glossy bottom layer on your prints.
Explanation:
- Smooth PEI:
This surface offers good adhesion for many filaments, including PPS, and can be beneficial for parts with small contact areas. It also produces a smooth, shiny finish on the bottom of prints.
- Why not textured PEI?
While textured PEI is excellent for other materials, it can leave a texture on the bottom of the PPS print, which may not be desirable for all applications.
- Adhesion:
For PPS, a smooth PEI build plate is often sufficient for good adhesion without needing extra adhesive like glue sticks. However, if you experience adhesion issues, a thin layer of glue stick can be applied.
- Considerations:
When using smooth PEI, it’s important to properly calibrate the Z-offset to ensure the first layer adheres well. Additionally, if printing with materials like PETG or TPU, which can have very strong adhesion, it’s advisable to use a release agent or a thin layer of glue stick to prevent damage to the build plate.
Ok, i guess I’ll need to order a smooth build plate then. This is the result of vision miner on my textured plate:
Still No Bueno!
@Gerrit I get a different recommendation from chatgpt with deep research turned on:
In summary, for pure PPS on the H2D we recommend either:
- Darkmoon G10 Garolite plate (350×350 mm): drop-in compatible, high-temp (≈130 °C) tolerant, extremely reliable adhesion, easy cool-releasedarkmoon3d.comdarkmoon3d.com.
- BIQU Panda CryoGrip Pro (350×350 mm, dual‐texture): drop-in, excellent for a range of materials including PPS with bed ~100–120 °C, parts pop off when coldforum.bambulab.combiqu.equipment.
so I went ahead and ordered the darkmoon g10 build plate. If it’s made well it should last a very long time. My X10 DIY G10 build plate is practically indestructable.
I’m afraid that the plate is the least of the problem here, maybe try find some pps-gf filaments if you’re looking for non conductive use?
@hotellonely What are the other problems?
I’ve printed PPS-CF successfully before, both the Bambulab version and the polymaker version. I have two rolls of the YXpolyer pure PPS, and so I’m just trying to see if it can be printed at all. So far it’s much more difficult than the PPS-CF.
Aye, the problem is the pure PPS 
Without fibre reinforcement everything becomes a mess for printing, I wish you can achieve a good result but I don’t have high hope here… Maybe there are some consumer grade PPS-GF filaments available but I can’t find any.
That was already what I said:
Could also have been that Google just read our discussion before and had that already integrated in the answer 
Unfortunately I don’t have any PPS to test it.
My first thought after that would have been the Darkmoon G10.
And here the advice from Copilot in “Think deeper” mode 
:
Who do we trust? Ourselves?
What is the best build plate material for 3d fdm printing of PPS without fibers?
Here are the top choices for reliably sticking—and then releasing—pure PPS on an FDM bed:
- Spring-steel sheet with a PEI (Ultem) surface
• PEI handles up to ~150 °C so a 100 °C PPS bed won’t soften it.
• Superb raw adhesion to semi-crystalline polymers like PPS—no glue stick needed.
• Flex the sheet to pop parts off cleanly.
• Low-maintenance: wipe with isopropanol every 5–10 prints. A - Borosilicate glass plate + PVA glue
• Glass stays perfectly flat at PPS bed temps (~100 °C).
• A thin coating of PVA (wood-glue diluted with water) gives repeatable “tooth” for the first layer.
• After cooling, parts release easily with a scraper; glass cleans up with water/isopropanol. B - Carbon-fiber composite build plate
• Inherent high-temp tolerance and rigidity—no hot-plate warping.
• Excellent surface energy for PPS once primed with PVA or glue stick.
• Semi-flexible variants let you pop parts off without damage.
• Wipe down with isopropanol between prints. B
Recommendation
For most hobby or prosumer printers, start with a spring-steel + PEI flexible plate. It combines high-temperature resilience, rock-solid first-layer adhesion for PPS, and tool-free part removal. If you already have a glass bed, a quick PVA-glue routine will also do a great job.
What do you think of the cryogrip recommendation? I thought the point of that plate was to print at low temperature. Would it truly do well on PPS?
I don’t have any experience with the Cryogrip, but it sounds far less logical than the Garolite. PPS likes a hot build plate.
So far I have been able to print everything do far with the both PEI plates, but probably the Garolite will be my next.