Yes there are 3. Are you getting a leveling error?
I have been, yes. This was after a failed print and when I tried to home the hotend it clobbered the printā¦ destructively. Have had problems levelling ever since.
Another thought. If I do this print again and I have reservations about it getting tangled, Iāll do it locally instead of using the cloud. Iām just transfer the project files to the memory SD. That way, if I do have a similar problem I have more options.
I would first check the nozzle very carefully to be sure it is not bent. The nozzle may not be applying the correct force when checking for level. It is possible the bed is still level (or was, until you started trying to correct it). A bent nozzle seems more likely than that the bed has been knocked out of position.
The Bambu tramming procedure is here: Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
Their phrasing is awkward when they say āPutting or not putting the plate is allowed during the procedure,ā but they mean you can perform the tramming either with or without a build plate. I use a smooth plate, since I never print without a plate, and I want the nozzle to be equidistant to the top of the plate in all positions. It also provides a firmer surface than the bare heat bed.
The tramming gcode does not change, but you can download it again if you wish. It will stop and wait at three positions for you to make adjustments and it will repeat twice more with shorter pauses for fine tuning. If you want more time for check the adjustment, just run the gcode again, without the initial step of making the knobs flush.
The wiki says to adjust so the nozzle ābarely touchesā the bed. This can be hard to judge consistently, and so can using a feeler gauge. I have had some success using a light behind the nozzle, and then adjusting until the light in the nozzle-to-bed gap just disappears. Watch it with your eye at the edge of the bed so you are looking parallel to the bed.
That should get the bed ālevelā enough that any remaining misalignment can be compensated for by the ABL. Once you get the printer working again, I suggest that you print a wrench for those hard-to-grip nuts. It is much easier to make tiny adjustments with a large knob to grip than to use just your fingertips on those skinny nuts. This one works provides good leverage for fine control:
Then tram the bed again, using the tool. That will reduce the amount of ABL compensation needed for every print.
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That gadget helped a lot. The problem is that you canāt get enough leverage on the little knobs to get a feel for how far youāve tightened them. (Tightening lowers the bed, and loosening raises it.) If the nuts are too loose the opening scrapes the bold threads and hangs up the bed, which creates a false reading. I actually unscrewed the rear bed knob completely trying to raise the bed because I didnāt understand that you have to start with the right tension.
Understanding this, the bed was out of alignment quite a bit and I didnāt have any way to tell because I thought the nuts had been over-tightened when they hadnāt. Very enlightening process!
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