Sometimes somethings are too small to expect to be printed.
If the tools in a slicer designed to compensate for a model that wasn’t designed to be printed can’t fix the issue, you need to fix the design.
These change your design
Detect thing walls
Arachne wall generator
Wall widths
You should consider how to design printability into your model.
Tiny sided fonts are notoriously bad choices as they do not generate the minimum width for walls without having your slicer try and often fail to change your model to compensate for the problems.
Bold or black typefaces are usually far better choices for your font choices. Making the text size larger is a good solution.
If you can’t or do not wish to change these things then you change the nozzle size to 0.2mm rather then the most common 0.4mm.
We design models to be printed for things like overhangs, bridging, hole compensation as so much more. Those shouldn’t be the responsibility of the slicer as it doesn’t make the model portable.
Nor should tiny details be the responsibility of slicer as it isn’t its fault.
@Dave_W probably has the answer depending on your line width settings but @MalcTheOracle maybe has the ultimate answer.
Studio honors your line width settings and you may have room to go a little narrower to get the letter fully formed. There’s limits though and go too narrow and there can be print issues. Only way to really know is to try it.
But you’re bumping up against the practical limits. If narrowing the extruding line width doesn’t get you fixed up you may need to go to a smaller nozzle or thicken up the details in what you are printing.
All of the suggested hacks will get the printer to attempt it, but in the end if those lines are less than half your nozzle diameter, it’s going to struggle to make them. Physical reality creeps in, your cake frosting tip does exactly what its gonna do
Anyways, another hack is to alter the XY-Contour compensation. If you give it +0.10mm, that will “fatten” everything up by 0.10mm before slicing, which may help you get a producable line. It is applied to the whole object though, so it will fatten your base up too, in case thats an issue.
Many thanks @ PrinterMcge! 40 & 15 fixed the issue.
I still print quite many models on FlashForge. Originally expected that X1C with will fully replace my old Creator 3, but so far there are a number of issue prevent me to do that. Managed to find the Interface shells option that significantly improved the quality of the base surface for the models like in the 1st message, but so far there are a number of other issues, I believe related to the BambuStudio, preventing me to retire the FlashForge. I don’t think it would be a good idea to put my other open questions to a separate topic, so, possibly, the forum has recommendations for the other issues
A recent pring on X1C with eSUN PLA+ (calibrated in BS).
Could you give me some advice on how to print objects like this, where a certain level of light transmission is expected?
When I enable the “Spiral Vase” option to make the object look as flawless as possible, some of the walls disappear.
I’m trying different wall thicknesses in the design (1 mm, 1.3 mm), but in every case the “Spiral Vase” option cannot be used properly.
So how can I print these kinds of objects in the smoothest and cleanest way, either with this method or without it? Are there any special or manual settings I should use for this? If the walls are too thick, the light transmission decreases; if they are too thin, the slicer removes the walls, etc.
As the warning explains (maybe not as clearly as it could), your model has holes (voids), this stops spiralise (vase mode) from working as it should be the result of a single, continuous line of filament to form the model.
This requires the logic that you would be able to wrap a continuous line of thread from the build plate to to top of the model without interruption.
It gained the phrase ‘case mode’ as most vases are solid shapes with holes and if you wrapped the thread around the exterior, it would go from the bottom to the top in a single line of uncut (connected) thread.
Models printed using spiralise (vase mode) are usually solid shapes, a closed top and a closed bottom.
The model in your screenshots has walls, a hollowed central portion, an hollow top, and holes in the external walls.
If you made the model, remove all those voids and it will slice. If that isn’t what you desire, make the walls thinner to obtain your translucent wall style you mentioned before.
Thank you very much for your attention. Now I fully understand how this function works. I had thought it was simply a feature that improved the print quality. However, as you showed, it actually hollows out the model and prints it in a suitable way.
Until two weeks ago, I didn’t even know what 3D modeling was. I’m just starting to learn.
As you suggested, I removed the holes in the design and turned it into a solid object. Now I can get the result I was expecting.
