Which slicers are actually able to open or create .3mf files without being tied to a specific printer — meaning, no printer or material profiles embedded** in the file?
OrcaSlicer is supposed to handle that, but honestly, even with ChatGPT I can’t seem to figure it out.
PrusaSlicer should also be capable of it - platform looks like the most powerful one over all.
Are there any other options? Maybe even tools that aren’t slicers at all — just for painting or editing the models? Most of the older programs that could do this don’t run on Windows 11 anymore, and while I could use Blender, that’s simply too time-consuming for this task.
This topic is becoming increasingly important, aseptically do of the upcoming U1 — I’d prefer not to prepare separate slices for every manufacturer, it even become more a reason to leave the brand. MakerWorld provides visibility and 5-star rating, but the process has become simply too time-consuming for the viability they offer.
I don’t have it 100% figured out but have been having more success with painting models in Blender recently. As you mentioned, it’s not always the best choice but in my opinion it has improved quite a bit. It has an added benefit: if you need to teak the geometry, you do not lose the painting.
Is there a particular type of painting you’re doing that is especially time-consuming in Blender? (meaning, are you painting organic shapes or many, distinct, small parts?)
What is the point in creating a .3mf if it does not include the settings for a successful print - which necessarily requires the settings for a specific printer?
If you don’t want the settings, use a file format with just the geometry - .stl, .step, etc.
The role of a slicer is to take geometry and send it to a specific printer using filament and printer settings.
The industry shifted to using the 3MF format for this task.
The 3MF doesn’t store information related to currently non-selected printers.
In simple terms, you open the 3MF in the slicer, select the printer, build plate and filaments, and print.
Assuming the project settings and model specific values remain consistent whether you target printer a or printer b, all works.
The 3MF will store the most recently targeted printer and filament selections as that is what gets stored. This does not lock it to those of course and can easily be changed the next time you open it.
Orca slicer gives you the most flexibility given it is designed to printer to as many printers as possible with ease.
Bambu Lab made it far harder for Orca Slicer to function when they introduced the ill-fated ‘security’ (insecure solution) and actively locked out Orca Slicer (and then lied about it).
If you are talking about uploading this files to third#parties like MakerWorld, you have to give it BambuLab specific printer and filament settings as that is obvious.
You completely missed something there. Especially with the U1, this is becoming a real issue now since TPU will mix in and is no longer the matter of colors only. The least interesting part is the pre-selected printer — in fact, it’s getting increasingly annoying.
Previously, that wasn’t a problem for prints, but that’s going to change. MaKim is right too… having the colors already defined is an advantage, but the embedded printer presets are becoming more and more of a nuisance, since more printers now support the format — and not just more printers, but more brands as well. Other new comers getting much more interesting, since no one will mix in. Like booking a Hotel room. Better to get the best room in the cheapest hotel then the cheapest room in the most expensive The hotel stuff in the cheap one will take care on you much more… However, and just as a side note. I think printable just works. It is may well clawed and indexed by the search engines web spiders. On Bambu lab, well I don`t know… not much my stile.
Orca saves every printer configuration, so if everyone uses a different .3mf setup, you’ll end up with countless printers installed even though you only own one.
Right now, I can get every part into Blender with a specific color which I melt — but I stopped doing it, it just takes too much time.
The downloads have only just started, but they’re increasing unbelievably fast. I have two paths: either go fully technical at a top level, or keep the color-structural mix in pro CADs — which isn’t easy to color. Getting the right coloring that also gives structure to the object is essential, and far beyond basic skills and time consuming. So keeping that balance is important — otherwise, the printed parts end up looking like just regular ones.
PrusaSlicer should also be capable of it — the platform looks like the most powerful one overall.
The topic is already closed for me; I’ve explored around 20 different options so I just read your first note. For the other comments, I do not have time - or i may overlook notes given since I stop reading
ChatGPS will now know the answer (but may it will forget it May try to get your answer of the outstanding post there.
Your original post does not say or ask what you think you wrote.
You ask a question and then say you can’t be bothered to read the answers people took time to provide for you.
The ignorance is astounding, you complain people didn’t answer a question you didn’t ask and then say you couldn’t be bothered to read the full answer.
Well, I do the body coloring too — but it’s a bit too much sometimes. And if everything melts together properly, you still run into problems later, because things get complicated once you enter repair mode.
I still remember Clough42’s A1 Mini review — really impressive. In the end, it was less about the machine itself and more about exporting the STLs at the correct coordinates, so they align perfectly in the slicer — then you can simply add the colors there. A lot of respect for achieving something that remarkable on that machine; he can really dig deep into his toolbox of skills.
Regarding you quote, well I m note sure. May in the end, it seems Printables is the only platform where you can actually see consistent growth through real dofollows and the only one worth to spend time in. Not sure as you are not sure but at least the same thinking so may there is something
I actual solved it through a generic printer setup (after checking how PrusaSlicer handles it). In OrcaSlicer, you’ll find the generic export under File → Export — quite a long story just to get that one ZIP file, but it works. Perfectly sufficient to take a first test pan — and see if there might be a few little flakes of gold in it. if not, fine, lets look for the next sinces.
At first, I thought Prusa would be devoured by the paper tiger — in their case, by the word “VW.” Now it seems that BambuLab might actually be the one to bury the ISO standard for good even with new displays It’s always nice to see that, in the end, it’s the same old ideas that keep the ship from sinking. But in the end, plugging holes and actually listening to customers would probably be the best choice. I think may (and just may) Prusa get its lesson, may they wont keep there track for a wile.
I finally found a use for my old Bambu Lab slicer. I open all the .3mf models from others in it first — that way, all the data gets stored in that slicer only. Then I save each model properly before opening it in the slicer I actually work with.
Unbelievable — people upload .3mf files on open sharing platforms that could easily have been shared as simple .stl files. So if someone publish an .3mf which can by done as .stl, you do not even need to check them anymore…
No wonder way all of them have 3 or less down lodes…
I’ve probably blocked 20 designers this week so I never see their models again.
Just as a sample as soon as you open there .3mf files, an H2D entry gets saved into my slicer settings… they really don`t care. To get off of those, you properly check it first in a slicer you never use and get off of them by blocking there profiles intermittently.