Try switching to “outer/inner” for the “order of walls” option under quality tab.
Its not ideal for overhangs and might make those worse but for everything else itll usually have a big improvement.
Also try lowering outer wall speed. These printers are fast but sometimes it’s worth sacrificing some speed for quality.
It looks like some of the lines are in line with the bottom and top of the circle. I see this often. Lowering outer wall speed generally helps with that.
Thanks again @MalcTheOracle, I’ll definitely try out the scarf option.
You’re right @mrfochs. I think I was mislead into thinking I didn’t need to fine tune any settings by just how easy it is to print things from Makerworld, but I guess that’s because those designers have already done that for you. I’ll check out those options, thanks!
@michael-bawden I’m not using any supports for the bolt hole, but you’re probably right that it needs some. I did try printing it laying flat as that’s the orientation Studio recommended but it came out with huge layer lines and I wasn’t confident with which settings to change. Now that I know more, I might try that again.
Thanks @user_958860865, I’ll have a play with those settings too!
Thanks to everyone who’s been so supportive and helpful in this thread! This community is great.
A few more ideas…
Go to preview after slicing. Switch to the layer speed option (if I recall the label correctly) and look for any major changes in speed on the outer wall between layers.
If almost everything in the outer wall is the same speed you will tend to get more uniform results.
If the layers have different speeds (eg. the layers which have part of the hole in them are slower, which is likely with default profiles) the results will often be less consistent and lines will be more noticeable.
Simplest solution is to keep lowering the outer wall speed until its fairly uniform.
Checking uniformity of flow etc as well in the preview is often worth it for similar reasons. Slowing down speed will often help with the uniformity of flow so dont adjust flow before adjusting speed.
If you have any issues with sagging in the top of the hole (which is quite possible when doing outer walls first) this can often be reduced by lowering the layer height.
Thinner layers mean smaller overhangs per layer.
Slight sag is often not an issue when filling with a screw or a bolt as you won’t see it and the screw/bolt will compress the sag out of the way.
You can also design in a teardrop shape for holes (ie. an upside down V on top of the circle) to avoid sagging.
Thinner layers also make layer lines less noticeable even when there are some imperfections. Whether it’s worth the extra print time is up to you. IMO it often is.
These printers are pretty good when using defaults, but to some extent default settings are optimised for speed.
I find myself wanting near perfect prints at times and slowing everything down, letting it run through the night, can often get almost perfect prints on P1S and A1 Mini.
Another thing to consider is the brand of filament your using. They all have slightly different chemical composition which can affect shrinkage, thickness, and cohesion. Bambu configures their printers for their filaments and supplies some settings for a few other brands. It’s possible you may have to go into the filament settings and tweak them. Some brands of filament may have inconsistencies also if they aren’t careful with their production process. I’ve been using some years old MatterHackers filament and some prints turn out ok while others fail completely on the same spool.
My suggestion would be to download orca slicer and run the calibrations for every filament you use. Then only use those saved calibrated profiles and never use a default profile ever again. I did exactly that for my X1c that was having similar issues with prints and now every print is perfect.
I appreciate that Bambu is sold so that most users can just plug it in and use it but without calibrating your machine for each filament, but that’s simply not realistic for consistently good prints unless you only buy Bambu filaments and dry them in a professional dry box you bought (not DIY) for 24 hours before use every single time you print (even then you will get much MUCH better prints with a tested calibrated profile even for Bambu filaments, especially combined with drying for 24 hours before use after opening the package)
Hows the weather inside? You keep it cooler or have vents/fans near your printer?
Just stop using petg and use pla+ and save urself time or use the correct petg profiles etc. U got it see how much better u already made it? Now take down ur anti vanbu google news article lol makes us look bad
Yeah orientation would have been my #1 change, sometimes I print part in one direction and a second in a different angle or in different quadrants on the same plate.
Temp setting would be #2. When I get new filament I will stand there and manually lower the temp -5 every few layers until it dials in…
Matte types of PLA like it colder than I expected! 195-210… if it’s stringy it’s too hot, if you can hear crackling or popping it’s too hot or the filament is “wet”.
Air flow #3. My printer is in my garage and there is a small but noticeable difference in the layer consistency when I leave the door shut for the entire print vs going in and out or leaving the door open.
Hello adbo and welcome in our community.
I wish to share with you some tweakin’ to obtain a better print of your model.First of all here you are the results of the print with a PETG Burnt Titanium (no branded) notoriously hard to print (filament quality … 
)
As you can see, despite the cr*p and stringing of this filament, the print was a succes and the dimensions are respected…
Let’s see how did I tweak Bambulab Studio to obtain it:
Here in these screenshot you can see the orange parameters I changed for the Quality and Strength section:
And lastly…(but not less important) I activated the adaptive layer thickness:
Terrible print by the OP, the A1 can do much better I assure you.
Only times I’ve had similar result was:
and …
Everybody say eSun is good but that roll was awful so maybe I got unlucky, none of my printers would print well with it. Eventually used it with the 0.8 nozzle and realised it made a pattern in long sections - I guess there was some major repeating inconsistency when they made the roll.
You have had the opposite experience to me. I have tried many filament types and have always found the default profiles to work very well. Including HIPS, PP, PC, etc. that isn’t from Bambu Lab. When trying a new filament I tend to just find the closest fitting profile (usually one for that filament) and adjust temperature if needed and that is it.
Where do you live where the humidity is that high that you need to dry the filament before every print? What materials do you usually print? PLA shouldn’t need much drying at all, nylon however can end up wet after just a few hours. There is also nothing wrong with DIY dry boxes, it all depends on how you make them.
You might want to look into print order if you are printing multiple small items per plate.
By default everything is printed at once so the nozzle has to constantly change which one it is printing but if you change the print order to one at a time it will print one fully then move into the next. If you try this than make sure you hit the auto arrange button since the printer needs a bit of space around every part. This does only work for smallish parts though as the finished parts may get in the way of the printer if they are too large but Bambu Studio has checks for that.
