Anybody tried replacing the brass nuts on the Z lead screws on the A1? The reason is to eliminated backlash in Z. While printing it isn’t much of an issue. However it seems during bed leveling the backlash can cause the first layer to be too low, requiring a global z offset.
Z offset seems to work fine but I can’t help but wonder if the quality of the prints could be better if this Z backlash didn’t exist.
I’ve seen the spring loaded lead screw nuts, but that wouldn’t work in the A1 except to turn them upside down (lose some Z build height).
Anyway I’m going to try a few things because it seems like a very common problem on the A1. But if anyone’s already tried, I’d like to hear how it went.
Wouldn’t it be easier to fix/workaround this in g-code?
If you mean z offset in start g code, yeah I know that works around it. I’m asking about actually fixing the physical issue.
Also I should mention the brass nut isn’t a part bambu sells, at least not that I could find. Maybe through support they would sell it.
Hello, I have just had a replacement A1 frame for mine due to there being wear in … the Z lead screws! - So I fitted that and the issue is gone. But now I am taking apart the old frame to find out what the actual cause is and it seems an easy repair, top caps off the frame, undo all the screws and the bar comes off, then you can use the printer to wind the gantry all the way up and it comes off, the Z nut is easy to remove, so all I need to do now is find out where to buy the nuts from!
That is interesting, in the meantime I’ve actually had one of the z nuts off my a1 (and it is still operational). I also found nuts that fit but require modification. But I never installed them as the function of the printer hasn’t changed really, still works fine with z offsets.
But yeah to use these you’d have to shave off two sides to make it like the original. I found them in brass and spring loaded versions as well. The critical dimension is the 16mm c2c bolt spacing.
I think this actually fit too but I wanted to use the plastic. I don’t remember now…
As from the UK, this is the one I will be trying, measurements look the same apart from the small bit protruding but I dont see this being an issue. Will report if it makes a difference.
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That should work, I don’t see why not.
Do you have them by now or nah? The main reason I didn’t just do it is that you have to resync the z pulleys, or whatever bambu calls it.
