New H2D Owner, First issues found ? after first Projekt done!

[Frunse]

So i have got my Printer may be 2 weeks ago and did my first big Projekt for testing and Learning Purpose with H2D!

While doing it i saw some Problems like this:

The Beld is rubbing on the Ideler at the Back of the Printer!

How long will it last this way?!
Is this an longterm Problem???

I think the reason for this is the Connection off that Belts to the Printhead!

May be iff the Belds were down and up 0.5mm to 1mm on the Printhaed they would not Rubb on the Ideler ?!

I am not sure about, could anyone else with an H2D say something ebout???

Have they see the Same Problem?

[ProtoSpyre]

The belt rub phenomenon is a long running unsolved issue ever since the X1 kickstarter release. It seems companies have focused on new tech and features over improvements on previous designs.

If they’ve developed the “autonomous belt tensioning” feature i’d love to see some method of implementing a semi-autonomous pulley tensioner. The problem is the pulley is static, the belt will follow the low point every time simply due to the belts tension. The only way to combat that is to have the pulley itself re-align itself with the belt. So how do we go about having that component be movable along the (Z axis) ? Maybe a calibration method that adjusts the pulley automatically then locks in place prior to prints and simply becomes a calibration every so often.

[Bullocks]

This perspective is not from H2, but from P1:

The belts did wear, a lot, quickly at first. Concerning amount of black rubber crumbles in the back! No quality problems, but the rub was there.

It took a few days of printing, but it stopped. The belts wore down visibly, but in the next 3000+ hours printing on it, no more wear visibly occurred, and it never had any issue relating to the belt.

Keep an eye on it, but dont be worried unless it continues for a long time. I had a similar experience in the Elegoo Centauri Carbons – lots of wear initially - then stops. But I havent had enough print hours to say that elegoo’s ones are good

[Frunse]

The Belt connection to the Printhead is screwed with 3 Screws, so i could rework The Connection Parts and move the Beld more in tne Midle of the Pulley left and right may be it helps?

I guess all Pulleys are Axial in 90° Position in the Aluminium Frame , i guess they Reworked The Aluminium Frame with an CNC Maschine.
So it became Precise.

[Frunse]

Yeah that what i will do, till i have Garantie on this Machine i wont rework it!

Only Using it like sugested but after this i will go in some rework may be.

My next Problem i found is the Wobly Print Bed, the Frame is fron Plastic and has only 3 Point Connection in Z

I Printed a large LEGO Plate:

But the Long Side in the Front is Plane and the Back Side is like an Bananna!!!

I Printed it from PETG with Bigtreetech Glacier Plate @70°C Bedtemperture!

It stiks like Hell and wasn’t Worping @ all till the End!

I made an Video off the Printing till the End you can’t see any Warping!

But after i removed it 2 hours later after total cooldown and put it on an Plane Tabel i saw the Problem, one Side wasn’t plane like Sugested!!!

If You put an Finger on the Printbed back Left and Right you see it moves down and up! On the Front Side it won’t!!! (Doorside)

Thats realy anyoing me more than the Belts!

They did 1500 Prototyps for desining it (H2D, saw it on an Intervies with the CEO) and didn’t find this Problem ???

Also the Parts far on the Side looks bad from Print quality Point of few!

One Side

Other Side

But i can’t realy say what side was on the Door side while Printing, because i found the Problem after removing it from Printer and putting it on a plane Table.

If you printing smaller Stuff in the Midle of the Printbed with the same Material and Settings it looks like this fine! Like Perfect!!!

So whats now???

Bought an big Printer for large Parts but the Quality is poor than …LOL

Also Kalibrated all with Vision Encoder before!!!

But on the other Hand the Skew seems prety well done on that Machine:

SO iam not realy sure what the real Problem is on large Parts but it seems to me it is the Printbed thats not stiff enough???

PETG is not known for much shrinking so i am not the Printer POPE to know why…

[ProtoSpyre]

I can’t say that’s all factual since I’ve not heard anything about how they positioned the pulleys. But I do know you can see the results right in front of you when you retension the belts and move the toolhead carriage around via XY axis.

The tension will put (xx) amount of force onto the pulley and overtime 1 being the belt/ or pulley will end up shifting/settling first. Over the course of using every version of bambu printer I’ve found that you can seat the belt some what perfectly to ride along the pulley and not rub the top or bottom flanges. BUT the moment tension is lost the belts will resume to the lowest point along the toothed pulley no matter what and you just need to re-tension again.

As with ALL electronics, heat & speed kills overtime and these are both factors within these machines day in day out.

[Shontzy]

Try re-tensioning the belts (then recalibrate), add mouse ears to the large prints, and turn off the aux cooling fan. Belts are notoriously hard to get centered and even if it is perfect, they can ride from one side of a pulley to another based on the movement direction.

[Frunse]

Don’t need Mous ears it wasn’t warping i have the whole Print on an Video the Part has a Phase on the Borders so it looks like it isn’t sticky but it was!

First Layer :

Some Layer later:

Neare the End:

But the Belt tensining and recalibrating i will trying
May be it helps!

[Tokth]

That layer line you are seeing on the outer wall(s) can be from several things, not necessarily belt tensioning or printer head calibration issues. the fact that the rest of the print looks just fine, and even pre and post layers are ok as well shows this.

Often this is caused by having the outer wall speed and outer wall acceleration up to high. Slow these down if you are seeing offset layers like this in your prints (large or small). Next, if you still have this issue, will be to look at extrusion rate for the outer walls. You can try reducing it and see if you get a more consistent (flat) outer surface.

Considering you say your printer is new, I highly doubt its a belt issue. Run the test bench prints for overhang, surface, etc., and dial in your speed, extrusion, and other settings first. All printers are different (even if they are the same model) and the optimal settings for your printer will have to be found via trial and error.

[Frunse]

This big Outer Wall line is exactly at the Layer Level where the topp Layer in this Part get Printed.

Thats sure an Setting Problem. Got it on my older Sidewinder X1 too with Cura Slicer also.

Flow dynamic and Flowrate i was Kalibrating and got an K Factor of 0.05 for that PETG an Cube i printed looks good so Far.
got 30.01mm for X and 29.99mm for Y

Also 30.04 for Z hight on an 30x30x30 Cube. Not that Bad i guess but it is an small Part on an Big Part it could be already different right ?

[kalex1114]

i have the same line when model transitions to vertical from horizontal. I had same issue on x1c and it does seem to be setting related. going to try to slow down the outer wall printing

[hotellonely]

@Frunse

The Beld is rubbing on the Ideler at the Back of the Printer!

How long will it last this way?!
Is this an longterm Problem???

I think the reason for this is the Connection off that Belts to the Printhead!

Not a problem. Totally normal especially at first. Lasts very long.

It’s not an issue regardless of what people think. The belts have been proven to have very long lifespan even on old printers.

[Frunse]

Next Problem:

Bambu PLA GLOW Green didn’t work well on AMS HT, it get Stuck in it after Print!!!

I got an new spool on this Saturday!

It wasn’t able to remove the Filament from right Nozzel on H2D!!!

I must Help and remove it with my Fingers!

The Filament feels realy rough.

But on Description it says AMS Compatible …LOL

But i wont test it on a AMS Pro didn’t think they are much Different.

Will Try it on the Back opening on a ANS HT like with TPU

The Motor don’t get it automaticaly out, so anyway

At the End i was able to use the Print

BTW i did first an Manual Flow Kalibration (K=0,025) thats works well but after the first Print it fails!!!

[L0rdS474n]

Any Glow filament, even if marked as AMS compatible, is not recommended at all since it wears the internals quite fast. However, you can use the bypass if you have an AMS HT and feed it through that.

I have printed PLA Glow, PETG Glow, and ASA Glow through the AMS system, but just as a test. It wears the internal components too much for my liking, so I would recommend using the bypass.

[Frunse]

Sure, but the AMS 2 PRO and AMS HT have Ceramic inlets so they must last much longer, or not?

My Problem was not on AMS the Problem was that the Filament got stuck in the right Hotend after first Part Print. And the Motor from AMS HT was not able to move it Out off the Hotend. I moved it back with my Fingers and i realy need a bit off power to do so by my self. Not sure what the Problem is.

Will test it with Bypass this day let see if its work better than.

But before i will test another Material first in that AMS HT hope there isn’t something wrong with in the Hotend

[L0rdS474n]

While ceramic inlets in the AMS 2 PRO and AMS HT do help with wear resistance compared to older models, they only protect the AMS feeding mechanism itself. The issue with Glow filaments is that the phosphorescent particles are highly abrasive throughout the entire filament path - including the PTFE tubes, extruder gears, and most critically, the hardened steel nozzle.

The ceramic inlets don’t protect against:

• Wear in the PTFE tube from AMS to hotend
• Extruder gear wear on the toolhead
• Nozzle wear (even hardened steel nozzles)
• Heat break and heat sink wear

Regarding your stuck filament issue: This is actually a separate problem from AMS compatibility. Glow filaments tend to have poor heat resistance and can soften/swell inside the hotend, especially if there’s any heat creep. The rough texture you mentioned makes it even harder for the AMS motor to retract.

Recommendations:

1. Use bypass feeding to at least protect the AMS internals
2. Consider a hardened steel nozzle for abrasive materials - they last much longer than brass
3. Check your hotend cooling - the stuck filament suggests possible heat creep
4. If it continues to stick, try increasing retraction temperature slightly or ensure the hotend fan is working properly

The ceramic inlets are a nice upgrade, but they’re not a solution for running abrasive materials long-term through the entire system.

[Frunse]

Printed with PETG in my AMS HT right now and it works fine again so no clue why PLA Glow got me trouble.

But i try as next the Bypass method.

And the H2D has hardened Nozzels by default, but may be i change to E3D obsidian 500 Nozzels soon (early Next Year).

To the Hotendfan (Printer is only 2 weeks old) i bought this H2D Pro Coolingfan upgrade for Hotends but not mounted it right now, waiting for an new Firmware so it will Supported the Fan the right way. Early next Year they say.

So not sure about to mount it now already.

[L0rdS474n]

Glow filament creates a lot of friction throughout the entire path, so it is not surprising that PETG works fine while PLA Glow causes issues. The rough, abrasive surface and additives in Glow make it much harder to move cleanly through AMS, PTFE tubes, extruder and hotend, which is why it can get stuck even when other materials work without any problems.

[Frunse]

Did it as an test to be clear nothing was damaged

[L0rdS474n]

You’re right that a single test print likely won’t damage the system quickly - it’s more about cumulative wear over time.

However, when Glow filaments first came on the market, I learned this lesson the hard way. This was way back before Bambu Lab was even conceived - printing around 1 kg of Glow filament would completely destroy a brass nozzle. The nozzle opening would be visibly enlarged and print quality would deteriorate significantly. That’s exactly why I upgraded to an Olsen Ruby Nozzle back then - because a single kilogram of Glow would kill a brass nozzle!

Since the H2D already comes with hardened nozzles by default, you’re in a much better position than early adopters were. Just be mindful that while the nozzle can handle it better, the PTFE tubes and extruder gears will still experience accelerated wear with heavy Glow usage.