New laser option?

Bambu Lab H2 Series
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My thoughts on the Bambu H2D laser and hopes for the future

First off, I love my H2D. I bought the laser version right from the start because I previously had a LaserPecker 4… and wow, that machine still has the worst software ever created. A true nightmare to use…so bad I almost threw it straight in the garbage bin, and it cost me around 1,500 euros! But I digress…

The H2D, on the other hand, is always ready. I don’t have to dig it out of storage each time I want to engrave (and let’s be honest, the H2D is way too big to move around anyway).

But here’s the thing: when I bought it, I went straight for the 40 W laser head thinking, “more watts = better, right?” And sure, it’s faster than the 10 W version thanks to the extra power. But I was honestly surprised to see it’s actually less precise than the 10 W. That’s on me for focusing only on power, because in the end, both the 10 W and 40 W are the same tech: blue diode lasers.

:fire: The million‑dollar question:

Will Bambu ever release a better laser for the H2D… like a 20 W, 30 W, or even 40 W, but this time as a fiber laser?

Here’s why I’m asking:

The LaserPecker 5 has both a 20 W fiber laser and a 20 W blue diode laser. That combo allows it to work on virtually any metal, which is a huge advantage. Here’s the image from LP’s site that explains it:

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Now, even with that, I still think Bambu has the superior system. The H2D’s head moves over the workpiece, unlike the LaserPecker which moves the laser itself. That means the H2D’s cuts are perfectly vertical, while the LP’s cuts tend to flare wider at the bottom than the top.

I really, really hope Bambu will release a fiber laser head for the H2D—one that’s not only more precise but can handle deep engraving on metals. That would be a complete game‑changer and would truly put the H2D in a league of its own.

Quick explanation: why fiber lasers are better for metals

  • Blue diode lasers (like the current H2D modules) work at around 450 nm. Metals reflect a lot of this wavelength, so you can only mark or lightly engrave them.
  • Fiber lasers use a 1064 nm infrared wavelength that is much better absorbed by metals, allowing them to vaporize and carve deep into the material.
  • That’s why even a 20 W fiber laser can engrave metals far better than a 40 W blue diode—it’s about the wavelength, not just the power.
    and also the beam of a fiber laser is very fine and sharp compared to the beam of a diode that is larger
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I honestly want to have it but I’m worried about reflections

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the reflection of the laser on what ?

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on the gantry and other internal hardware things. laser fibers have a much longer effective focus area compared with diodes, but maybe i’m overthinking

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Just my take on this, but a fiber laser really isn’t compatible with the H2D’s current design. Unlike diode lasers, fiber modules emit at 1064 nm, which is highly reflective and potentially dangerous inside a gantry-based system like the H2D. Internal components—linear rails, cables, even the laser module itself—could be damaged by scattered IR reflections.

Fiber lasers also require a stationary setup inside a fully enclosed, metal Class 1-rated chamber with industrial-grade filtration for metal fume extraction. The H2D’s moving toolhead, plastic components, and current safety systems just aren’t built for that kind of power or wavelength.

In short: adding a fiber laser to the H2D wouldn’t just be a bad idea—it would require a complete redesign of the entire machine.

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they are tho working on upgrade, i am still waiting on the fire extinguisher they are supposed to release that would go with the H2D

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  • Auto Fire Extinguisher is an optional equipment, will be available soon after the product release.

so maybe they can provide a kit to change linear rails and cables

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So according to this, you’re sacrificing your bypass port?
Why can’t they use the explosive powder charges that have been on the market for years? They extinguish fires instantly and require no ongoing maintenance.

This one for an example

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It looks like a gas canister, so I figured a non-flammable gas in a tiny, non-lethal quantity—like Argon or Nitrogen—would make more sense. The goal is to stop the fire, not make the printer unusable.

Your powder solution is fine for fires where nothing can be saved, but if the laser causes a small flame and powder gets everywhere inside the H2D, it would either take ages to clean (requiring a full disassembly) or completely ruin the printer, forcing you to buy a new one. That’s really not ideal.

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The laser cannot be operated unattended for extended periods, as periodic check-ins are required or the job is paused. If flames go unnoticed, the issue is already critical. Personally, I’d rather have the printer destroyed than risk greater damage or injury.

That said, since the ventilation fan runs continuously during laser use, any extinguishing gas would be quickly expelled, rendering it largely ineffective. In my experience from fire safety training in other technical hobbies, gas-based suppression only works if it can remain in the enclosure. Continuous airflow negates this, whereas powder suppression remains effective even under active ventilation, despite potential equipment damage.

While 3D printers may differ in some respects, the underlying principles of gas versus powder suppression remain broadly applicable.

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yes but if the gaz get spread it mean the printer detected the fire, i hope it would also cut out ventilation

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Laser cutter fires are not unusual. You should never walk away from a running laser cutter. That’s like, rule #1 (for hobby lasers, not industrial).

If you’re there when it catches fire, a few spritzes from a spray bottle of water will be sufficient to put it out.

An automatic fire extinguisher doesn’t know what’s on fire, it has to assume everything inside the machine is. They have to spread retardant everywhere and that will make a significant mess of the mechanics and optics. Major cleanup afterwards.

It’s an expensive solution to a problem that is much simpler to solve if you just have the patience to stick around while the job is running.

I have an IP camera inside my laser cutter so I can watch it from a feed instead of having to stare at the machine for the whole run. I have a video window in the corner of my display and I do other stuff while the laser is cutting. But I’m 5’ away from it if I see smoke or flames.

Also, re: fiber laser for cutting metal - metal cutting generates metallic vapors that will coat/plate every exposed surface inside the machine. To be able to cut/engrave metals with a fiber laser, and last, the machine would need some significant (costly) design changes. The Laser Pecker can do it relatively cheaply because there basically are no mechanics, just two galvanometers with mirrors to steer the beam (which are not open to the cutting area, so stuff won’t get in to mess them up).

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So i would love to get a 2 or 3 watt ir module, they put those on gantry cutters all the time.

Interestingly atomstack has a gantry style fiber laser, just not enclosed.

Sounds like an engineering problem to solve, maybe an extra shield.

Still

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Thanks for sharing useful info.

In your topic there is a pictures with an info what 20w H2D laser can engrave. Who can explain what does More means?)))) More is a bit wide mention… isnt it?

I would appreciate if someone will share what exactly 20/40W H2D can engrave and cut by its laser.

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Bambu has a 10w and a 40w, both diode lasers. Here’s some details about the materials and what not:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/laser/material/types-and-examples-intro

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If I understand your question correctly I think in this case “More” means “More than what is listed here”