Thanks for that reply, still testing and printing with different options… there is a lot to learn, again 
The dryness of the filament you get in a bag depends on the bag, how it’s sealed, and the conditions when the filament was made and packaged. These are all unknown variables. I’ve had lots of filament come out of the bag and print beautifully, including types like Nylon and TPU that are very hydroscopic. But I just opened a new bag of Matterhacker Nylon Pro and it printed like a soggy noodle. So now it’s getting dried.
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People keep on saying that, but the x1c to me, being the first FDM printer I own, so far has been entirely hassle free, 100% plug and play.
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My X1C did not have great print quality out of the box. I also adjusted the belts and cleaned the carbon rods a few times. The printer pulled a magic trick and just started printing better after a few days. I still don’t know what its problem was or what fixed it. Make sure after you adjust the belts, watch the two motor pulleys in the back while the printhead is moving. I think it causes issues if the belt rubs against the top or bottom of those pulleys. It will move around but it needs to stay somewhere in the middle. Thats the best theory I have for what my problem may have been in the beginning. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
I had issues with PETG which I also couldn’t figure out. Then after days of tweaking I figured that chamber temp plays big role on quality of your print. Nobody talks about chamber temp, just stuff like profile settings, dryness of filament… but if the chamber temp is not right, your print will not look good.
So, you’re printing lots of different models and filaments and haven’t had to tweak any printer/slicer settings? If so, your is experience is no doubt an anomaly. It would be interesting to see the quality of your prints.
Check the ‘Flow Dynamics Calibration’.
Can be done in Orca slicer or the new Ver 1.7.0.53 of Bambu Studio.
In the new Studio … click ‘Calibration’ tab … then click on ‘Flow Dynamics’.
Glad you got it sorted… hopefully I will too.
Seems like it makes a difference, I printed some more and with an open case it looks better. New to printing with an enclosure…
Will check it out… seems I have an older version installed. (why is there no update notification… edit: okay it’s a beta, will give it a shot)
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Things to check:
- Table where the printer is installed needs to be very stable - helps a concrete block under the printer and sturdy shelving
- Filament - !!!Dry!!! as others suggested , and filament parameters especially if not using Bambu filament, strongly suggest to use Orca slicer 1.6.3 or Bambu studio 1.7 ( never used this one i use orca slicer) and do flow calibration, advance pressure, Print temperature as an option i do maximum print speed test and retraction test and maximum volumetric, Note i had a cheap unbranded PLA which never worked for me so went into the bin. Now everything from eSun or Bambu
- The Automatic flow calibration( Advance linear pressure K) does not work on textured plate , and actually is giving at best average results for extra 3 minutes on each print especially if filament is not dry. I almost never use it , especially with PLA
- Too hot in the room - open a bit the door or lift the top - only a problem with PLA
The list goes on:
From the photos i see the following - Unstable printer surface( shows a few defects on the same heights on different prints) , Over extrusion ( the top surface with ridges) , so flow setting looks high and Probably Linear pressure is too high the edges are not as sharp(Difficult to say) , Bridges are not good , happens when incorrect print temperature, or any of the above or too high speed , but some of the above can be result also from wet filament. Spend hours tunning until i just dried the filament and realized that the problem was the humidity. Now filament in the AMS with silica and heated dry boxes for external spools and Silica filled storage boxes for already opened filament
I started with davinci , ender and then Prusa and then Bambu - now PLA on Prusa and ABS,PETG ,ASA on Bambu .
Once you do it you kinda get the hang of it , but have to be honest takes hundreds of hours before you start , good prints , But with Bambu very good prints around 8 Hours per filament tunning (not Bambu) , Acceptable printing should be straight out of the box with Bambu filament or even with 3d party filaments and autoflow but you may want to reduce the speed for a test 
The above assumes that Bambu hardware is ok
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Further more good quality Benchy on Bambu is around 40 - 45 minutes with ABS , PLA 35-40min , i was able to do it sub 20 minutes , but it needs a bit play with speeds task , now i print qality slow(normal mode) overnight still almost 2 times faster than Prusa i3mks+ 0.4 , now with new extruder and 50+ hours tunning the prusa is only 60% slower and with 0.6mm prusa vs Bambu 0.4mm around 30% for similar quality
We’ll, of course I’ve been playing with slicer settings and had failed prints for various reasons. But to me those failures were pretty clear where I made a mistake in my models, when slicing, or just exceeded the physical limitations of what a FDM printer can do (eg overhangs). What I mean is that I did not have issues like the OP of this thread, I didn’t have any nozzle clogs so far or other issues that would clearly be the fault of the printer. Downloading (good rated) models from printables and just throwing them at the printer with default slicer settings really works well pretty much all the times. Also the cool plate (with glue stick) has been working fine with both, bed adhesion as well as removing prints afterwards.
In all likelihood, it was changes in the ambient environment and/or the dryness of the filament (assuming you have an AMS).
How hot or cold the space is where the printer is located can have an effect on print quality.
And/or you loaded the AMS with filament that was a bit damp and while the AMS isn’t a filament dryer, it’s got desiccant and it’s a somewhat sealed enclosure, so filament can’t help but dry out some while it’s just sitting there.
My AMS is on top of my printer, so it gets warmed up when the printer is running, which kind of makes it in to a filament dryer (many of which are just a closed box with a heater and some desiccant).
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Yes I did the calibration, several times. Since then I did some more quck testprints (not much time at the moment). But I think it might be a combination of cooling, room temperature and fialment quality. Think I just got a bad batch and already shopped a filament dryer… should have initialy bought more options. Will get back with some more tests…
@vladimir.minkov thanks for the tips, I will check out Orca Slicers calibration tests, these sound usefull. But currently Im on limited time 
Currently everything looks like that filament might be an issue (just bought a dryer… let’s find out)
I’ve always printed right from the bag with a good level of success. Not always perfect, but always useable. But I recently got some Matterhackers Nylon Pro and it was unusable in its as-delivered condition. The moisture content of the filament depends on what the filament is, the conditions present at the time it was extruded and packaged, the desiccant quality and state, what type of plastic it’s packaged in, and what environment conditions it experienced between being put in the package and being removed from the package. There are a lot of variables.
My observations have been that filament packaged in clear-plastic bags that aren’t vacuum sealed tend to be the dampest. Filament in a silver plastic that’s had the air sucked out and the edges melted together to seal the whole thing up are usually pretty good.
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I think nylon is an edge case due to the hygroscopic nature, didn’t exect that from pla… but as stated, ordered a dryer and some more filament for some more testing.Also I think “usable” and “quality” is a relative term for someones understranding. One might be happy with a good outcome others shoot for near perfect. I learned it’s a complicated thing in regards to 3d printing and opinions.
I printed 3 months and 20ish kg without doing anything to my first X1C. Then it kept yelling at me to clean the lidar sensor. Still I did nothing for a long while until I couldn’t stand it and did a full cleaning and so on.
My fist P1P needed a lot of work day one and every day sense. Life may not always give you lemons sometimes it gets limes.