I’ve had my X1 Carbon almost a year now and print exclusively with PETG. I use the Engineering plate and default settings on the Bambu slicer. Perfect prints most every time. Even with small parts I don’t need a brim. Once in a great while need brim and sometimes use tree supports, but most just load the sliced stl, default settings, and let it go. I don’t like PLA anymore as then I have to use glue stick or a brush on chemical with a different plate. With PETG I use 99% alcohol and a Harbor Freight micro fiber cloth and clean the plate JUST BEFORE printing. I found adhesion is very good and release is very good. Flex the engineering plate while warm after printing or let it cool and print comes off perfectly. Often I’ll remove one print, alcohol the plate, and immediately print again. I have over 200 prints on this Engineering plate and it looks and performs like new. Print speed is default PETG 200 (outer wall) to 300 (inner wall) mm/s. I use PETG from $14.99 to $27.99, generic and Bambu and all print great. One question was filament run-out. Only had this happen once with a large print. Fortunately I was printing generic PETG so I loaded another generic PETG color (didn’t have more of original) and it finished print without a flaw. Had I used Bambu filament it would have detected a different color. With generic I just changed spools in same slot and said Continue.
Thanks everyone for your replies. Really interesting and exciting discussion from my point of view. Coming from a few years of my allegedly tuned Ender3v2 printing mainly PETG and TPU, it constantly fights me, it never feels like its working with me.
I’m really hoping the BambuLabs is “on my side”.
In summary then for me, dimensional accuracy is not critical, neither is a perfect surface finish. I’m purely looking for speed and consistency printing essentially house bricks, something I can set going, and come back in a few hours and have confidence I won’t be greeted with spaghetti, or as I experienced this weekend, a trashed heater block.
I’ll be printing almost exclusively PETG. I really don’t want the hassle of “glue stick” every time I print. With my E3v2, I am printing on a PEI, clean it before every print with IA and have never had any serious adhesion problems. I’ve orderd a PEI with the X1C.
My biggest learning curve is going to be material management. I am going to start using the BambuLabs PETG, but hopefully with time and learning, I can go to other brands. If I can use the default profiles for ANY brand of filament, with minimal tinkering, and get near the speeds you are quoting, I will be one happy bunny.
I’m seriously like a kid at Christmas here, I can’t wait for this thing to arrive!!!
Don’t forget, a closed installation space is not absolutely necessary for PETG.
There’s a lot going on at the moment…
Printing with PETG, I have better results on the X1C with the door open and top off, or at least opened to let heat escape. A chamber temperature above about 30 °C has caused poor adhesion.
My little trusty E3v2 is in an enclosure, but is not printing at anything like the speeds I’m hoping this will be. Great tip though, another one to add to my list of things to watch out for!!
Yes you should think smart at the moment - In the end you have to know what you are buying.
So P1P (without housing) with AMS and saving something for the summer is definitely not the stupidest idea. Then take a look at FLsun - 1000mm/s travel speed. The K1 is no longer what it used to be but is now damn cheap.
I don’t regret my purchase, but I’m very happy that I don’t have to buy at the moment… But in the next 3 years there will hardly be a right time to buy a printer… 1 year wasted and from February on you have to expect a run head to head, month by month…
Well, print PETG as fast as you want, 250mm/s is no problem my friend!!! 
I’ve had my X1 Carbon for about 12 hours now, and my only reaction is one of astonishment. Coming from the E3v2 driven with Cura, and the associated constant battling, this thing is an absolute joy to work WITH. Apart from a minor false start (and yes, I was one of the 99%) where the AMS threw an error that it couldn’t pull the filament beyond the AMS, it has been seamless (the issue was the user not plugging the AMS cable in properly). Anyway, here are my initial findings:
Material Management - I’ve loaded the AMS with some Bambu PLA Filament that came with the printer, ESun PETG, and and some random ABS I had lying around. The printer knew exactly what the PLA was, I ran the auto calibrations on the PETG and used the generic profile for the ABS.
PLA bench came out as perfect as I have ever managed to see in less than 25 mins.
I saved the dynamic calibrations under a custom profile for the PETG which I am hoping I can call on each time I use that filament, and couple it with the generic PETG (I haven’t found a way to save the entire profile i.e. settings + dynamic calibrations in a single profile). Test prints I’ve run so far are great. Going to push it tomorrow.
ABS is an interesting one (for me anyway. I got some minor warping on some of my prints, ones with a relatively small footprint. The brims stayed attached to the plate, but it was the print which came way from the brim. There’s a setting called “Brim Object Gap” which might be the answer here, currently set to 0.1 by default. This is something I need to play with.
TPU and PETG tomorrow, trying to resist the temptation of just going hell for leather.
Do people tend to run the dynamic calibrations before each print? this seems a bit wasteful to me. My plan would to be calibrate each roll, or even each manufacturer and material type once, and use the calibrations. Maybe recalibrate every 3rd roll or something.
Sorry for the essay, but I’m absolutely astounded by this thing!
Yes, lower your “Brim Object Gap” if your print is detaching from the brim. I usually run mine at 0 for small parts when I use a brim. The down side is there is a little more post print cleanup but I would rather that then a fail print.
Read the Bambu Wiki carefully. It has everything you need to know.
Short version: Create a filament profile and make the settings you want to use (print temperature, volume mm³/s). Then go to calibration and carry it out manually (this is better than automatic calibration), select the previously created filament profile for calibration. Save the value of the dynamic calibration and recalibrate it as soon as you change the mm³/s or printing temperature, for example. As I said, it is best to read the Wiki on this.
Some users only use the generic profiles and some do not even calibrate the dynamic flow.
Best regards!
So happy printing 