I just got my H2D a few days ago – it’s replacing my Prusa MK4S/MMU3. So far I’ve tried PLA, PLA Silk, and ASA and they’ve all printed beautifully without any major issues. Now I’m trying to print with Bambu’s PETG-CF and things aren’t going so great.
I’ve got my left nozzle set up on the AMS2 Pro and the right nozzle set up as external feed – both nozzles are the 0.6mm hardened steel high-flow nozzles. I tried loading the PETG-CF into my AMS2, but it immediately warned me that PETG-CF isn’t recommended for the AMS2. So I loaded it onto the external spool feed.
I’m using the textured PEI plate and 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle. As soon as I started having this problem, I tried running the flow dynamics calibration and the flow rate calibration. The flow dynamics calibration worked fine, but… apparently I can’t run the flow rate calibration on an external spool? (I actually thought I was clever and tried running the flow rate calibration – hit the button to disable the AMS/use an external spool instead, run the calibration… but that core dumped. Opened a github issue on that).
The thing is, the 4 layers that printed look absolutely beautiful, but about 20-30 mins into the print the AI alerted there was blobbing on the nozzle, and wouldn’t you know it – there was a nice sized blob on the nozzle. Since this was a 9+ hour print, I wasn’t going to try to power through and hope everything didn’t end up as a massive booger on my hotend.
Right now I’m using the default PETG-CF settings from Bambu, tweaked with the flow dynamics calibration. What I’ve seen so far suggests to use OrcaSlicer to tune the filament… but as far as I can tell, the H2D isn’t (yet) supported in OrcaSlicer? Any assistance would be appreciated!
Oh, and the filament is fresh out of the bag, so I didn’t think to run it through a dryer first. Is that something I absolutely need to do?
If it’s Bambu filament then consider it not dry enough when it arrives brand new and sealed at your house.
Some filament manufacturer deliver their spools in metallized bags where hardly any moisture goes through the bag but Bambu doesn’t in the most cases where the filament comes in the cheap non-metallized bags. And those filaments need to be dried as to my experience.
Also, I’m printing for roughly a decade and I never had any nozzle clumping until I had the H2D where I experienced it in the first week already.
No sure if the design of the H2D is prone to nozzle clumping, I don’t know, but it seems like it since they specifically rolled out a feature called “clumping detection by probing” and recommend to use it when you first use Bambu slicer. Introduction to Bambu Studio Nozzle Clumping Detection by Probing | Bambu Lab Wiki
So give it a try and enable that feature. It comes with the disadvantage of creating a prime tower (by default) though.
When my H2D had the first clumping the material pushed up in every little space of the toolhead and I’m still suffering from it when I want to change the left hotend because even after thorough cleaning the small little remainders of the clumping make the hotend stick to the toolhead so I have to heat it up every time when changing the hotend.
You cannot do flow dynamics calibration on externally loaded filament. To do flow rate calibration, it will only let you run that calibration on AMS loaded filaments. Believe me, I tried… When you try disabling the calibration on the AMS and just trying to run flow rate calibration on the external filament, BambuSlicer crashes/core dumps…
So I ran the filament(s) through a drying cycle on the AMS, and then loaded it into a PolyMaker drybox I previously had, along with some dessicant. It’s now printing without any issues – I’m up to 27 layers, and did I mention I enabled ludicrous speed?
Why not just use the calibrations built into studio for that then? The ones in the calibration tab next to the device tab. They’re the same tests as the ones in the top task bar calibration menu. Or do these not work on externally loaded filament either? I use AMS units all around so sorry for my ignorance.
As I mentioned before, I was using this in the external spool holder. Bambu Studio will not run the flow rate calculations on the external spool – only if you’re loading from the AMS.
I found a liquid on amazon that you brush onto the nozzle, and plastic doesn’t stick to it. It works great for eliminating blobs of plastic on the nozzle.
Are you sure about it? I haven’t connected my AMS initially (due to space constraints) and I’m (nearly) sure I did run a flow-rate calibration.
Please note the word “nearly” in my text.
Ahh… decade, century, millennium… only different words for exactly the same.
Besides this typo, even if it really was a century or a millennium of 3D printing experience - it would be useless since with my H2D everything is different.
I recently even learned that PLA can warp so much, that it lifted from the build plate (besides strong bed adhesion) and I learned that even if you set 30 °C chamber temperature the H2D will ignore that and keep blowing cold air from the basement into the build chamber where 21 °C chamber temperature was simply too low for that particular print (hence my setting to 30 °C).
Full plate PLA can pull a bed on any printer.
Confused about the temp setting. While every printer has it’s quirks or can be defective, I’ve been printing non stop for 2 weeks on my H2S.
When I say non-stop I mean it. Have an order that needed to be filled.
Default cooling for BL PLA and Polymaker Polychroma (used BL profile) the temp stayed 30-31, 55 bed. Actually was the same with a super tack like plate. The ambient temp was 68-70 for most of the print. Actually a little cooler some days because I’m a cheapskate and wear sweatshirts.
This didn’t work for me, I dried it for 24 hours on my Sunlu Dryer and also dried it again in the ams 2 pro for 12 hours, and now the ams 2 pro has a new feature of keeping the dryer running while printing and still I get blobs on my 0.6 nozzle while printing with Bambu Lab PETG-CF. Humidity Level read <6% throughout the print process. Don’t get me wrong I end up finishing the print job and it comes out great but it keeps pausing for the blob on the nozzle and that is really annoying. I also have to heat the nozzle after my print is finished to remove the blob from the nozzle head and silicone cover. If you found a better solution to this please share it as I don’t find it convenient to keep repeating this process each time I print with PETG-CF.
