I sure can. To give you some context, when i first got my A1 mini, i mistaken the 3 little screws under the bed (silver) with the ones on the top side (black) so when reading the user guide, i tightened the ones on the top side. Those top side screws, found out later, are responsible for the 0 level, factory default leveling. Now, after some point, my A1 mini started acting up as it woudn’t level the bed before print, failing every time. So i figured, this has to be connected to those screws. Looked up how to level the bed on a Bambu Lab printer and i came across a step-by-step tutorial from BBL. Its called Bed tramming. You can follow it step-by-step to 0 level the bed again.
Dont worry if you dont get it from the first try. It will work.
Just google these keywords depending on your printer.
A1 mini Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
A1 Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
Now I understand, I will try to fix it with this, you were able to fix it, thank you, then I will let you know if I solved the problem with your solution.
Have you tried unchecking ‘Reduce infill retraction’ on the others tab in the G-code output section? Retraction | Bambu Lab Wiki
Might be the solution to the frustration…
just wanted to add my 2 cents. I had the same issues and tried all the same solutions. the ultimate fix was bed tramming. After following those steps and doing nothing else except the maintenance - calibration, the printer printed flawlessly.
Aloha,
I’m having the same issue with my A1. I bought it back in November and had no issues, loving all the prints and then one day I was printing with black Overture PLA and noticed instead of the project being printed, it stuck to the nozzle which was completely covered with a giant glob of melted PLA. When I took the front cover off and removed the silicon boot, I found the hot end assmbly completedly covered in melted PLA. I ordered new nozzle, hot end assembly and even a new cooling fan when I accidentally snapped the retaining part on the back of it.
After replacing the hot end assembly and cooling fan, I reinstalled the original 0.4 nozzle/hot end and now the nozzle keeps scraping the print table when I try to print.
I checked on that and discovered the hotend was not reinserted properly. No more dragging but now the filament is not adhering to the plate for some reason.
Happy to help! For your plate, give it a good clean with soap and hot water, to clean your bed. Also try and avoid touching your printing bed, as the oils on your hands can stop it sticking!
i did that and even reset it to factory settings and still having the same problem. Submitted a ticket to Bambu and their response was less than helpful. they seemed to think i was talking about the back of the plate where the nozzle scrapes itself to clean. I responded to them with a video of the nozzle scraping on the middle of the plate with the filament not sticking.
I don’t have much to add but I have been experiencing the same thing. With Polylite PETG and even Bambu PLA Matte. It’s weird because I will have a totally flat layer which seems fine then the nozzle drags over that layer and rips it up. No amount of calibration has seemed to fix my issue so far.
I’ve had the same problem for a few days.
All of a sudden the nozzle is scratching my print and in many cases pushing it off the plate or destroying it. Printing is currently no longer possible. I haven’t changed anything. I did the last update at some point, but I don’t know now whether I was able to print successfully afterward. Filament is the same, settings unchanged. I changed the nozzle to test it. Calibrated and checked everything. Nothing helped.
I am experiencing the same issue on my a1 mini. I am brand new to 3d printing. I have yet to try the tramming thing. I am confused, because for me, it is only happening on the solid infill layers. This would seem to me to be a software bug, not a hardware issue, but since I know absolutely nothing about this, I could be wrong. I will try tramming. I have already tried to do a flow calibration, tightening the screws on the back end of the hotend, increasing the z offset, and swearing loudly at the machine.
If the infill is either grid or cross hatch, this will happen due to the crossing of the infill. If you don’t need the strength that those give to the model, try a different type of infill like gyroid for example.
Something I came across on youtube was changing the ‘z hop when retract’ setting in printer properties in bambu lab studio. Increase the value from .4 to .8 and also change the z hop type to spiral. Also staying away from the criss cross infill.That seemed to help me.
!