What would be considered the optimal AMS setup in your opinion in my case?
I have a H2C. Two 4 to 1 Splitters. 2x AMS HT, 2x AMS 2 Pro, 2x AMS.
The two options I tought about are:
Left Nozzle: 1x HT, 1x AMS 2, 1x AMS; Right Nozzle: 1x HT, 1x AMS 2, 1x AMS
Left Nozzle: 1x HT, 1x AMS, Right Nozzle: 1x HT, 2x AMS 2, 1x AMS
I often print PA6 with ASA support on this machine. Also PLA/PETG with PVA Support is common. Beside that the most common multi color printing I do are Lithophanes.
I bought the H2C with 2x AMS HT myself and had 2x AMS from my old X1C. I got another AMS 2 for Christmas even tho I do not print multi color that often. Not sure where to put it in “best case” now tho. x)
It’s really what works best for the materials you will be using. From your 2 options I’d be more inclined to choose the second.
I’ll give my example - I currently have a H2D with 3 Ams 2 Pro’s and a single AMS HT.
Right nozzle has 2 AMS’s
Left nozzle has a AMS HT and a AMS 2.
When I upgrade to the H2C I will be placing all 4 bay AMS 2’s on the right side - so thats 12 colours on the right. This means (with a bank of all 0.4 nozzles) each nozzle only deals with 2 colours at any time if I were to print using all colours (which would be unlikely - I ljust like to have a range of colours loaded and ready to go).
This leaves me with a single AMS HT, which I will place on the left nozzle, and will be used mainly for PETG (which I will use for PLA supports), or I will swap it out if I’m printing a multicolour model thats heavy on one colour.
With the h2c you might also want to think about distance on the right nozzle. I have placed the most used closest (ams2 and a ht) then the lower ams2 needs to slide out so takes longer on a switch. The other HT is on the right with optionally the AMS-1 normally on the p1s.
yeah i build this rack around that idea so the 5 most used slots on the ams2/ht would be very short ptfe’s that why they are also at that height. The lower one can slide out so ptfe is longer but not much i can do about that. Also added some drawers to get to the correct height… happy with the result but it was some work …
Often thought about making a wooden shelving unit with runners on each side to stack 3 AMS units, but be able to pull them forward for spool access. That way they can be place don the left side of the printer and have shorter PTFE runs.
Saying that, doesn’t Bambu recommend the PTFE is at least 600mm in length? Or does it not matter?
This is my H2C setup, the shelf is from Ikea. The Ams 2 fit well in it. The ptfe from the middle Ams is about 30cm long, and i think i can shorten it another 5cm. The other 3 Ams ptfe are between 40 and 60cm.
The ptfe from the two HT are about 70cm to the left nozzle.
Listen, I’m about to drop some wisdom here: the “world’s best setup” is like asking what’s the best pizza topping - it’s whatever YOU like, buddy! There are probably as many “optimal” AMS configurations as there are 3D printers scattered across this beautiful planet of ours. What’s working spectacularly for my particular collection of plastic-melting machines might be a complete disaster for yours, and vice versa. It’s the circle of life, printer edition!
Personally? I’m living my best filament life by yeeting TPU/PEBA straight from my AMS HT while it takes a scenic detour through the bypass and PTFE tubes. That setup? Chef’s kiss - absolute perfection for yours truly. I’ve even successfully convinced PPA/PPS to cooperate using that same magical configuration without any dramas. But here’s the kicker - your mileage may (and probably will) vary!
My humble suggestion? Start simple, my friend. Don’t go full spaghetti junction with all your splitters right out of the gate. Begin with one AMS unit per nozzle and see how that treats you. Think of it as a first date with your printer setup - keep it simple, see if there’s chemistry, THEN you can get fancy with the complicated stuff later.
I build it myself around some parts and 3d printed the rest to match the h2c design. The internal core structure was a $18 garden mini table that would take 230lbs. The lower parts are 19" rack elements that allow me to slide the ams2 out and 2 drawer elements… 19" server rack parts are cheap and well build to last so its good to use.
Hi ! I have been trying to connect all my AMS:s to my H2C and i have a problem to connect the sixt AMS, in my setup there is 2 old AMS, 3 AMS 2 Pro and 1 AMS HT. I have tried to chain them togheter in diffrent ways and there is always one that dosen´t connect ? Maybe I have missunderstood the AMS capability?
That does not work. Only 4 AMS or AMS 2 units in total are supported. Every other has to be an AMS HT. With your setup you have 5 AMS units (3+2) which is one too many.
left nozzle 2x ams ht 2 slots so if i know its going to run out i can add a second spool before starting the print
right nozzle 2x ams 2 all the other ones to get 6 slots
i doubt ill ever do more than 10 colors in one print so any more would just be for convenience to not switch spools around
Its definitely better to have the ams units on the left side not the right as that keeps the ptfe tubes much shorter. when it changes nozzles it actually takes longer to retract and send the new fillament than it does to change the nozzle.
ikea shelf i plan on printing some racks to get 4 layers of spools below the ams’s as the shelves sre removable
