I have a single object that I need to slice with connectors. Each piece needs to be on different plate so I can enlarge them, 1 per plate What is the order to do so and how to print connectors along the way, especially for those that have 2 connectors (e.g. 1-4 and 1-2?
I’m thinking 1-4, 4,-7. 1-2, 7-8, 8-9
From what I understand, the sequency does not really matter as it is entirely dependent on your preferred way-of-working and assembly sequency.
I usually start assembly while plates are still printing. So I usually start with the lowest parts and work my way up.
As for connectors, you need to align 6 degrees of freedom at each interface. The cutting surfaces provide 4 of these. The type of connector then determines if you need one or two per cut surface and how well tolerances are accounted for.
If you can provide more details (images, connector considerations), more and/or better guidance and ideas may be possible.
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PS: I usually enlarge before cutting. That eliminates the risk of scaling individual parts wrong.
Here is an example. I want it much larger, so I want to cut the model 3 x 4. I take each 1 to a different bed, which I then enlarge more.
I’m wondering if it will b tough to line; when re-combinong up as for some, a connector in 2 places. How can u align them when 2 need to line up.? Possible but I want to keep connections low.
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So I want to cut it with connectors. So I’d like 2 know where connections should be.
Many thanks for that. So a city/landscape, thin and wide, with vertical cutting surfaces. Is the blue an infividual object/part or was it painted?
First, I’d change the sequence. Increase the scale, then cut. You do not want to mess with scaling effects on your connector cut outs.
As for connectors, you have a few options. Two swallows tails per cut would be good, but in Studio, you can only do one per cut. But the problem description clearly asks for two (or more) connectors per cut. So unless you want to use CAD for some more suitable clamping connectors, you’ll need to limit functionality to positioning, relying on glue (I have had good experiences with “Kraftprotz”) to hold the parts together. The “snap” type connectors allows some clamping to occur, but being severly limited in thickness and orientation being a bit of a pain, this will probably not really hold things together.
Locationwise, I’d go for locations between 1/3 of the cut length and the edge. Minimum distance from the edge should be between 1,5 and 3 times the connectors smallest diameter.
There’s a caveat though. Due to the very thin model, local deviations may occur in z. In particular the cuts through the river may be problematic. So the smaller the connectors are, the more you may need. Could be as much as one every 75 mm.
Personally, I’d recommend considering some CAD work.First a thin double dovetail connector, then increased in all dimensions by 0.05 to 0.1mm. The second can then be used multiple times with a negative boolean operation on the bottom of the landscape (after cuts along feature lines like roads or river banks). In particular hiding cut lines takes quite a bit of CAD work, but you could hide most cut lines, the connectors would only be visible from the bottom of the model and you only need a large enough flat table for the assembly (ok, a bit of “Kraftprotz” doesn’t do any harm 
).
As for practical printing considerations, of course you’ll have warping on your radar. What is frequently an annoying surprise is hole and contour compensation. Since that is highly non-linear, it is pretty unpredictable. That is why I no longer use design integrated pins. I always have cavities in the main parts with a bunch of identical dovetail connectors. In that manner, I only need to throw away a few oversized connectors and can easily just print a bunch of differently scaled connectors to find the best fit which I then print a whole plate of.
Should you go for more classical dowel type positioning pins, these are frequently generated a little bit too long. So you may want to scale them down in length by 0.2 to 0.5mm.
Hoping that there’s at least something useful in my wall-of-text,
Yours,
Eno
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PS: Also do not overthink connectors: Their main function will probably be to allow you a good alignment in x and z while the glue is setting.
Thanks much. Will look into it/ I do have Fusion
Is it possible to just super glue\, or would that have too much margin of error?
I fear that superglue only (“Kraftprotz” is a brand of superglue) will not work well as the interface is long and thin. And there’s quite a risk of bonding the model to the table
But I just thought of something else which may make your idea workable:
Using half of the swallows tail cut tool lengthwise with a (near) 90° angle would just give you a lip cut. If you can hold the entire cut down evenly for the 1 to 3 Minutes for the glue to set, that may work. You’ll need to use supports for half the prints though. I’d use PETG for PLA support but that is just me.
Note though that superglue needs moisture to set. So large area gluing is quite challenging when not using special formulations. Some have had good success with activators applied to the bond line but my own experiments only went as far a soaking parts in water post-print. That works too, but apply glue only after removing all tiny droplets. If not, a skin can form around the glue, preventing it from actually bonding anything.
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From the above 3 x 3…can’t I cut between Col 1 and Col 2, separating the left ccolum. I then can put connections where they need to be (say 1/2 up each small rectangular pieces). Then do the same buy cutting between Col2 and Col 3. At that point, I can start cutting along the x axis and do similar actions.? I don’t think it fails by 1 cut - 1 conectors
You can actually put as many connectors as you want per cut. Only the swallows tail cutting tool is limited to one.
I think it is best to try out a few variations in the slicer. Don’t settle on the first attempt but try a few different strategies and then think about freedom of movement for each.
No need to slice initially. Just to learn the different aspects of the cutting tool.
You will soon settle on an approach you are comfortable with.
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I dont have much to add other than this tip: If your model can support the size, make the holes fit whatever is the common small wooden dowel size in your locality. And then just get a bucket of those dowel pins, and let the slicer just cut holes. They are cheap as hell, all your local woodworkers use them like candy. They are fluted, and will deform slightly to make the friction fit even better. You want them hand-tight, not hammer-tight [in PLA, if you put enormous stress, the material will warp out of the way over time and loosen]. Made of continous wood grain along their length, they will be way more sturdy than whatever your printer can conjure up as an appendage-on-the-part.
This kinda thing
How can I set the circular holes exactly opposite one another?
The Connectors function does that for u.
This is what I think I should do in terms of connectors between which plates:
Is it ok to just put in horizontal connectors, or should I add a few vertical ones?
Thank.
Are your connectors for structure or just for locating? Like, are you planning on gluing this assembly down onto a rigid plywood base or something? If these connectors are any % structural, I’d use lots of connectors. If your project is making these 9 pieces; each full-build-plate sized; I’d use at least 6 connectors per plate edge (18+ along one whole cut). This isn’t metal, they will definitely snap if you only include one and then try to pick up the assembled piece.
Unless I use glue too, the connectors will take the load keeping them together.. Not sure if this will be hanged, or on a flat surface.
Will add some connectors.
And yes, each tile will be enlarged to near 9” x 8”.
Thanks.
Thatnvery much depends on the connector type you are choosing. Do you have some screenshots of your current thinking/trials?
Is it easy to cut out holes to match up with the other half perfectly?
