Outer wall gaps/holes in BambuStudio on some models, how to fix?


When I slice my model there are “gaps” in the outer wall so the top surface can be seen. Why it happens? Is there a way to make the wall more dense so the underlying top surface is hidden? (or optimizing the model in some way?)

Rotating the model kinda helps.


Simple answer?

Don’t do this.

That pattern is incompatible with such a randomly organic geometric shape that you are trying to slice. You may find that you will get better results with a more linear pattern. Also, your shell thickness is too thin and invites voids in the top layer especially when using organic models such as this.

Based on your 0.12 layer height, I’m guessing you may be trying to achieve a finer details with your model. With a model as complex as that, you may be asking too much of FDM technology. It looks like the resolution of your model is lower than the resolution that the printer can achieve. Whereas you might achieve a better result with a finer nozzle, this model seems like it would do better with a resin printer not an FDM based technology.

Just my $0.02 or €0.018 :wink:

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EDIT: I just saw the picture which shows it is very thin, like a mask. Which it must be using only 9.58 grams of filament. Like @Olias said, the model is too detailed for 0.12 layer height. Try slicing at 0.08. I would try simplifying the model as suggested by the slicer and see if it improves. Being that small you are unlikely to notice any loss in detail. If you want to add some thickness to the model, you’re going to have to use a CAD program. Actually you could use the slicer. Just clone the model, line the two up one on top of the other, overlapping slightly. Then assemble them both. You could do this a number of times to make it thicker. You may have to repair the model afterwards but it should work.

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That’s a pretty clever trick.:+1: I never thought of that. I’m going to try that out on another model that’s been giving me a headache for which won’t import cleanly into CAD.

@Olias I hope it works, I haven’t done it myself I just thought of it while I was editing my post :sweat_smile:

Thank you for your input.
Top surface pattern parameters don’t help much.

Yeah. I have a resin printer but I want a colourful print and don’t want to paint anything. I also want to put it outside, and it sounds that PLA and PETG are much more resistant to environment than the resin.

Here is another more hi-res model and other angle with similar problems.

Are you referring to this stringing?

If you are, then I can say this, that is exactly how the technology performs I’m afraid. No tuning or supports will fix it.

I’ll share an example from my own collection.

This was a 250mm tall planter. It is the largest item I’ve printed in my P1. Notice the unintended stringing at the chin.

Here is that same item.

How did I get it to look smooth. I’m afraid, I did it the old fashioned way. I cut the strings with an X-Acto knife then sanded down the rough spots then sprayed triple-glaze polyurethane paint.

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Changing the pattern of the top surface and turning off “Only one wall on top surface” kinda fixed my problem. Thank you!

Btw, for smoothing the models, have you considered using chemicals?

Yes, I have experiment but chemicals to me are just too hazardous an option and one must remember, I do this in my home office. My wife was irate the one time I tried ABS. Also, outside of acetone smoothing of ABS, I’ve found no combinations of chemicals and filament performance I would consider safe. As an example, smoothing PETG requires Chloroform. There is no way I am bringing that into my house and if you priced it out, it is way to expensive to just “keep around”

For now, I am steeling the pages out of my old teenager hobby, “Auto Body Work”. At my age, this is a lot easier on my back than to be crawling around a car with sand paper. :wink: